Treads are still attached to a single carcass, so the same rules apply. The reason that they don't like treaded tyres is that the treads move around on the carcass (making the tyre more forgiving to drive) and this causes them to overheat and lose grip.

Treaded tyres for TCs are fine in the wet, but race them in the dry and they just shred themselves. Same for road cars - take a treaded tyre on a track day and watch the grip disappear as fast as the tread! But the construction in both cases remains the same - acting on a single carcass that when it loses grip it takes a significant reduction in speed to regain grip.

If you did try to develop this you would make a small fortune - providing you started with a large one!!

I've always read that slicks were preferred due to their larger contact patch, more contact patch, more grip.

I have my first 1/12 scale and I understand how to measure and adjust rollout but I don't know where to start for a 17.5. How do I figure this out?

Depends on what brand of motor and size of track. Good starting point would be 95-106mm of rollout and watch your motor temps. Your motor shouldn't go above 160 degrees.

Thank you

This chassis has been around for a bit, but it's a nice looking kit.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/square/setuprmsz/RMSZ/

Check it out.

This post is for Josh. We are trying to work out a thrust kit issue. Can't seem to post pic's in PM's.

There seems to be a few new axles on the market that have running changes that I have yet to identify. I have to rely more on the customer to know what they have so that I can properly sell a thrust kit that fits. It's like buying shoes. You can not just walk in and say: I need new shoes. The next question is always: what size? If you don't know, you have to measure. To make matters more complicated, some axles are showing up with 4mm studs vs the old 8-32. They are very difficult to tell apart until you try to thread a nut on! What's worse is these studs are often aluminum. Cross thread that and you ruin the axle. So words of caution here: pay attention and proceed gently and you will be rewarded.

Josh; send me this dimension (wheel off is easiest) and I will get your Top WGT axle thrust kit put together and make sure that you get some of the new 4mm nuts.

Brian

Thanks Brian.

17.5 blinky class questions for upcoming ROAR nationals:
What's the best lipo battery?
Is a 5500 battery better than 7000 due to lighter weight (assuming you are over the minimum weight)?
Best body? I got the amr 12 but I'm hearing that's better for modified and not necessarily 17.5

Strakka is killer for 17.5. AMR sometimes works well on some cars on some tracks but is generally better for mod. CRC Audi and Lola are good ones too.

Battery, R1 Works and CRC 7000mah are great.

More mah is always better for 1s lipo

AMR is a great all around body
If track grip is high Strakka is awesome

You all should post some pictures of your 12th scale rides.......

TOP with speedmerchant new skool on aluminum

That's a nice looking car. What's the advantage of the aluminum chassis? Is the front of the top plate attached to the servo?

thanks, haven't ran it yet so im not sure if its faster but it has less flex, 1.7 thick rather than 2.5 and servo case is tapped with top deck attatched.