actually, if I know something close to a ball park, it does save time, etc.

No different than if I told you that you need to change your tires for a given track and you know its a clay one, you don't need to start with everything else that isn't a clay type.

But yeah, testing will still need to be done to see how it feels for me too.

What would moving an entire link out 1 hole do?

+Roll/Less Steering/More Traction (LRC)

That's what I was visualizing. I would guess it's like making the rear pivots narrower but having less of an effect?

Im still only at page 16 so maybe i havent got to this part or i missed it, but how do you find the suspension frequency of your buggy? I have the losi 8 2.0 b. With silver fronts and yellow rears i have the back leaned out completely amd the front almost vertical and the back still rises faster. I cant slow the rear anymore and dont have any different front springs. I THINK i may have some slight binding up front. The rear is very smooth while the front takes a bit more force to move. The front doesnt really bounce it compresses and then rebounds to ride hieght almost like it still has oil in the shocks. You can really tell the rear is on springs only. Any suggestions?

The compression test is pointless if you have any binding. You must free up any binding you have otherwise it's all for naught. Regardless, to slow an end down you need to move the shocks inward. Don't think of it as horizontal or vertical, but in and out. The shock will be more effective further out and less effective further iN.

I may have this part backwards, but changing the upper mounting has a larger effect than changing the lower mounting. In otherwise, set the upper and fine tune it with the lower.

Don't expect the front to initially bounce like the rear. There is less weight up front, so it'll return to neutral quicker until the springs are balanced properly.

Too drastic angle difference between front and rear shock angles is not recommended and you will keep chasing set ups if you keep it like that. Also too much difference in shock oil weight and spring Lbs difference should be avoided too.
Silver is 4.4Lbs(from I recall when I had the buggy, silver and green are the kit springs, aren't they?) but I can't seem to find the rate for yellow.
The front spring may be too soft(since it's kit spring, I doubt it though) or oil's too thick or piston holes too small or number of holes is less than the rear. Make'em balanced first. Or the rear shock has the opposite problem. If the shock acts like it's only on the spring, then the rear is more likely to have issue. Check oil, presence of air, piston holes, and spring rates.
If you feel there might be binding you'd better get rid of it first LOL.
I believe people here could help you more if you tell us how the car acts in your local track. (under/over steer, rear traction, track traction, what surface, how the car acts when it lands,etc)

When you are spring balancing try doing the balancing with rims but no tires on the vehicle. This reduces the amount of bind you get from a track width change as the suspension compresses. Also, you don't really need to drop the vehicle. You can just push down both ends and watch them rise back up. It's a lot easier to see that way.

To be clear, im doing the spring balance test so there is no oil in the shocks. I did find some binding tho. There are two screws that hold the hub to the arm. Some crap got in between the screws and the insert that is in the arm and wasnt allowing the hubs to move freely. I never noticed this before i put the car away. I got it all cleaned up i just have to put it all back together and try again.
Also the yellow rear springs are Caster and they are actually taller than the losi springs. However i was still able to achieve proper ride height with them so im assuming its ok to use these?

Oh just to address something else too, i have silver fronts and green rear springs. I think it was supposed to be green front and silver rear. This is what is being sold on ebay right now as a tuning kit for the 8ight 2.0/3.0

Ingore what you've always been told with guides. Perform the experiment and go by the results. Don't even copy pro setup sheets. NONE of them understand balance!!!

Yellow spring: you don't want to use 2 different brands' springs in a single car. Every brand's different rating their springs and it's hard to compare those springs when used in a single car.
Bring it to default setup and just take your car to the track and go from there. It's easier that way.

There's nothing wrong with 2 different brands. Perform the experiment and achieve balance. THEN take it to the track.

Thats what i was thinking....the brand of spring doesnt matter....i still get proper ride height. I still get all the extension and compression i did before. Shouldnt matter whether i use losi springs or traxxas springs as long as they dont interfere with the shocks range of motion who cares? Once i get balance i can worry about having matching brand names. If i figure out the spring rate of the Caster springs i can find some thing thats the same from losi later on down the road and all ill have to worry about is ride height since the casters are a bit taller.

I think the only point I would make about the different brands of springs is that you can't really trust their rates as advertised. So if you find balance with an AE big bore 4.20 in front you won't necessarily be able to get the same result with a Losi 4.20 spring (just an example). If you are interested in tinkering and truly learning how your car works, this is a great way to get started with it. I think a lot of people run their cars either over-sprung or over-damped on one end and the camber link mounts do next to nothing. When you actually get spring rate and damping set accurately to the track conditions, your camber link adjustments will be much more noticeable.