Hi.....just finished building this kit. First 1/8 scale and my first build in years since my B44...... inexperienced!

I followed the instructions perfectly, or as far as I can tell. Lol. I squeeze the trigger and the motor spins up, meshed to the pinion perfectly and it spins the center diff just fine.....fast. but VERY little power is getting to the wheels and it CRAWLS along very slowly.

Took out the center diff since I noticed a little oil seepage, cleaned it out, refilled since it looked a little low on oil.......zero wear on gears anywhere. Was literally the first time I drove it. Tightened everything up and zipped up the buggy. Same thing.....everything spins fast but the wheels. Lol. Just noisy and barely moves forward.

It's got to be one of the diffs. How can I figure out which diff may be the culprit. I'm sure it will be recommended I shim inside to make sure the gear teeth are meshing.......WHERE do I put the shims and which part # are the diff shims? There are so many little dam washers to choose from. I did countless searches and read a ton of pages in this thread....might just be easier to ask.

Thank you very very much!!

Just built mine this weekend. Must have did something wrong because it barely moves. I strongly suspect I missed a shim in one of the diffs and gears aren't meshing enough.

Brand new, drove it maybe 2 feet on drive way. Lol. Might part with it. I'd keep esc and motor. Make an offer maybe I'd do it.

EXTRA INFO: When I lift the rear, or the front, turn ONE wheel by hand, the opposite wheel doesn't move at all. Shouldn't it turn in the opposite direction as I hand turn the opposite wheel?

I dread needing to remove the front or rear diffs.....like a douche I used the tu e of red locktite that came with the kit. Didn't think of using bue....just thought I'd follow the kit as they are the pros that wrote the manual. Now I can't budge the screws! Broke an Allen key tip off in one already. Geeeeez.

I would use a heatgun/blowdryer on the screws you used red on and go through and rebuild the front/rear diffs. Definitely sounds like you did something wrong building them. I've raced an 8ight for years and never used any type of thread lock on the diffs...

Yeah. I really hope I can get them out! Manual called for locktite. Dam it.

Obviously something is wrong but man I swear I built those EXACTLY how the manual stated it.

The only thing I can think that you may have done is missed the flat on the front or rear center drive dog. These are the cups that go onto the front and rear pinion with a setscrew. If you missed the flats and setscrewed onto the round, the car wont move so great.

Not a bad thought!! I mean I can't imagine not screwing in on the flat spot.....but maybe it wasn't tight enough and slipped a bit. I'll check asap.

Anybody have two new sets of yellow TLR buggy wheels???? Looking to trade the two sets of whites I have for yellows. Shoot me a PM.

Hi I see some of you guys saying you read setups on other cars and you could tell they weren't racing ? Is there specific motor size for competition? Is there a disadvantage to running the 2650kv to the 2200kv ? If I was to go up to the local track to race what should I expect other drivers to be using for their motors and such?

TIA

Cab forward!


http://www.neobuggy.net/2015/03/10/t...-forward-body/

I'm a moron. Fixed my buggy. In both the front and rear diffs I forgot to put in the mother F-ing large gear that meshes with the little satellite gears. All better now......thing was wicked fast with the 2050 Tekin in it.....wheelies down my street.

I think I have one set of yellows. You can have them Brian.

Thanks Steve!

So I have the stock 43T with a 15T pinion with Tekin 2050 motor using a Reedy 4s lipo 65C. Ok? No?

I just don't want to overheat but still be as fast as possible and last as long as I can.

Anyone know the dimensions of the lipo battery tray? I need to confirm that before buying batteries

Is it the same as the 8ight-E truggy conversion kit tray dimensions?