295LikesTamiya mini cooper
03-09-2015 | 02:10 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 253
From: Newtownforbes, Ireland
03-09-2015 | 08:33 AM
I used this battery all last year in our club and was able to finish 3rd overall out of about 10+ racers. If your running the silvercan this battery is probably as good as you'll get out of that motor and the stock ESC (I assume your running the stock esc)?
Chargers, you can pick one up from HobbyKing, -they are cheap and made in China, but they work fine. I used one for a few years until I needed something that could charge higher capacity then switched to a Dynamite brand charger which I absolutely love. --but it wasn't cheap.
I will need to get a few of those battery meter buzzer thingies and a lipo bag.
03-09-2015 | 11:16 PM
Spent a portion of today breaking in a silver can. Haven't done one for a few years. It's interesting work, but I'm really happy we run brushless now.
This one's going in a just for fun/shelf queen M04. I'll drive it now and then, but probably not in a real race. Same car I'm looking for tire advice on, btw. What are good choices in 55mm Shimizu and/or Spice tires/inserts?
This one's going in a just for fun/shelf queen M04. I'll drive it now and then, but probably not in a real race. Same car I'm looking for tire advice on, btw. What are good choices in 55mm Shimizu and/or Spice tires/inserts?
03-10-2015 | 07:06 AM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 25
From: Brooklyn, NY
Spent most of the day building a mini for my six year old son from all the spare parts I had laying around. Its amazing how many spares you can accumulate.
Apart from the hop-up steering, motor plate and bearings it is completely stock including the friction shocks.
What is annoyingly shocking is how fast and nimble it is (even with a silver can and an 18 tooth pinion) compared to what I thought was a fully sorted m-05 VII.
I have learnt one thing from the whole exercise . (K.I.S.S) Keep it simple stupid!
Apart from the hop-up steering, motor plate and bearings it is completely stock including the friction shocks.
What is annoyingly shocking is how fast and nimble it is (even with a silver can and an 18 tooth pinion) compared to what I thought was a fully sorted m-05 VII.
I have learnt one thing from the whole exercise . (K.I.S.S) Keep it simple stupid!
03-10-2015 | 07:14 AM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 25
From: Brooklyn, NY
03-10-2015 | 07:30 AM
That was quick! Thanks. Of course, it doesn't look like any of my usual go-to sources for Tamiya parts has them in stock (or in their system, for that matter). Wondering if I can rig something up using a long set screw, some spacers, and a ball stud nut.
03-10-2015 | 08:00 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,972
From: All over the place
Don't drill anything. If you have a small tap of suitable size (or some tool steel - a piece of an old drillbit) lying around, just grind three very sharp edges on it meeting at a pointy end, place pointy end centered on the little bastard, hit sharply with a soft hammer so it indents in the brass (bronze) and using the tool you just made try to screw the bastard out (through the opposite side to the broken face). If you don't have enough purchase, you can try now to drill with a 1mm bit a shallow hole using the indent as a punch mark, just enough that the sharp edges bite into the sides of the hole.
03-10-2015 | 08:13 AM
Yes, quickest way is to place it in a vice and drill it out on a press. 
Good job, Neils!! Looks great. 
Spent most of the day building a mini for my six year old son from all the spare parts I had laying around. Its amazing how many spares you can accumulate.
Apart from the hop-up steering, motor plate and bearings it is completely stock including the friction shocks.
What is annoyingly shocking is how fast and nimble it is (even with a silver can and an 18 tooth pinion) compared to what I thought was a fully sorted m-05 VII.
I have learnt one thing from the whole exercise . (K.I.S.S) Keep it simple stupid!
Apart from the hop-up steering, motor plate and bearings it is completely stock including the friction shocks.
What is annoyingly shocking is how fast and nimble it is (even with a silver can and an 18 tooth pinion) compared to what I thought was a fully sorted m-05 VII.
I have learnt one thing from the whole exercise . (K.I.S.S) Keep it simple stupid!
03-10-2015 | 08:23 AM
Don't drill anything. If you have a small tap of suitable size (or some tool steel - a piece of an old drillbit) lying around, just grind three very sharp edges on it meeting at a pointy end, place pointy end centered on the little bastard, hit sharply with a soft hammer so it indents in the brass (bronze) and using the tool you just made try to screw the bastard out (through the opposite side to the broken face). If you don't have enough purchase, you can try now to drill with a 1mm bit a shallow hole using the indent as a punch mark, just enough that the sharp edges bite into the sides of the hole.
03-10-2015 | 08:27 AM
What did I do last night? After driving my M05 with the latest damper setup, I decided to try the extra hard spring for the front. Hope to have it soon.
It is great how different M05 and V2 handles. While they look similar, they are so different.
It is great how different M05 and V2 handles. While they look similar, they are so different.
03-10-2015 | 04:50 PM
Well the postman was good to me yesterday. My black MO5 V2 parts and new carbon reinforned arms arrived. It is great to get all of the hopups in one bag. Only other parts needed are the black front and rear alloy knuckles and hubs.
Jim,
Pit Shimizu 55mm tyres with medium front, soft rear, ca glue on front outside with 3 hole pistons, 35 wt oil. Fluro red spring rear and fluro yellow up front. This is for carpet. If you can find the carbon fibre front shock tower for the MO4, car will work alot better, I have been told.
Hope it works for you.
Later,
50 cal
Jim,
Pit Shimizu 55mm tyres with medium front, soft rear, ca glue on front outside with 3 hole pistons, 35 wt oil. Fluro red spring rear and fluro yellow up front. This is for carpet. If you can find the carbon fibre front shock tower for the MO4, car will work alot better, I have been told.
Hope it works for you.
Later,
50 cal
03-10-2015 | 06:51 PM
Thanks Cal. Of course I have the carbon tower for the M04. I've got all the rare bits. Rear carbon tower, sway bar kit, Square front bumper...the front tower is a good tuning aid.
Been shopping on Banzai for tires. They've got good deals on Shimizus. I'll go med/hard on inserts. Soft never worked for me on our tracks.
EDIT: Is it just me, or is Shimizu's tire designation really weird and arcane? I'm guessing that I need to get some 27 and 33 shore tires. Kinda confused by the tires labelled as "rear sp".
Been shopping on Banzai for tires. They've got good deals on Shimizus. I'll go med/hard on inserts. Soft never worked for me on our tracks.
EDIT: Is it just me, or is Shimizu's tire designation really weird and arcane? I'm guessing that I need to get some 27 and 33 shore tires. Kinda confused by the tires labelled as "rear sp".
Last edited by monkeyracing; 03-10-2015 at 11:09 PM.
03-11-2015 | 02:26 AM
Does anyone have some guidance for a stable bodyshell. Getting a M-05 v2 Pro in the mail (sans body), and I'm looking for a good (mini) beginners shell.
Will be racing indoor carpet (tight track) and outdoor asphalt which is open and flowing.
Will be racing indoor carpet (tight track) and outdoor asphalt which is open and flowing.
03-11-2015 | 04:21 AM
Jim,
The Pit Shimizu sp tyres are for the rear only and are very good on asphelt in the cooler weather. I will go through my tyres and give you the ratings later. But the 25 grooved rears are the soft and 30 s are the medium and 35 the hards.
Regards
Calvin
The Pit Shimizu sp tyres are for the rear only and are very good on asphelt in the cooler weather. I will go through my tyres and give you the ratings later. But the 25 grooved rears are the soft and 30 s are the medium and 35 the hards.
Regards
Calvin