then call me a certified nut! ETS setup made the car smooth like butter. The car feels planted without being pushy or traction rolling (it's weird). I wanted a good starting point and Marc's setup was Gold on the high traction carpet we play on.

I did say "blindly" - what you've done is give it thought, ie: use it as a base, not expect a panacea (although, you might get one)

i just recently bought a 419 and am having an issue with binding in the front. It seems to be coming from the ball end that goes into the steering block/chub. Any tamiya ball cup i put on the silver/grey ball ends seem to bind slightly and affect the free movement of the arms. All the other ball ends and cups are super smooth despite the reamed hole i put in them... ? anyone else have this issue?

It's because of the low type 5x9 ball connector (only used in this position) which for some reason is slightly larger than the normal size.

If you want it as free as the rest of the car, use the 1mm higher version included in the 54075 set. But of course you need to be aware that it raises the ball by 1mm. The other way is to try to free up the ball cup...pliers, heat etc., there are different ways to do this, but I personally prefer to change the ball connector.

Yup. I did snap those specific ball cups in and out a bunch and coated the balls is this stuff...

http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/42280...ml-p-8499.html



It got MUCH better. Eventually they ware in and become free like the other ball cups

Put on a mechanics glove, throw the ball stud in a dremel and spin the stud in some 600 grit sand paper. Doesn't take much and it's smooth as butter after.
- Jose

thanks guys... i have never run 419 and didnt know that was the case. I will get it right! appreciate the info!

I was wondering to myself after working on my build for the 419, what are the effects on chassis flex characteristics by sealing the edge of the chassis with CA vs Loctite.

A while back, I built an Exotek conversion for the EVO5 where the instructions recommended to use Loctite instead of CA to seal the chassis edges so as to minimize changes to the chassis flex characteristics that CA apparently causes.

Since I don't have more than one 419 chassis or a test method to produce quantitative data, I was curious if anyone had any qualitative experience with using Loctite vs. CA to seal a chassis edge.

In the end, CA seems to be the obvious choice to minimize delamination over Loctite.

This is probably not even worth thinking about, I often get random thoughts like this. Please pardon the lunacy.

A lot of people use Loctite to seal chassis. Works good.

The local wisdom at our track states that applying CA Is not only unnessary but can actually create "hard" pockets along the edge that can screw with the chassis flex characteristics and create tweaks. Most of us smooth the sharp edges with sandpaper without applying anything to the edges.

I very lightly (q-tip/tire CA) used CA to seal the edge of a exotek TA-05 ver 2 chassis that later developed a tweak. I left the edges unsealed on my 417 and it's still as straight as a razor.

I have no plans on sealing the edges on my new 419

I seal all my carbon chassis... but we also have wood as boards here..

I do wonder at times bc i do find my cars having odd tweak at times but in no way can i tell if its CA glue on chassis or weight balance of chassis...

I glue for chipping edges or at least a bit of prevention.

As for 419 binding run the car... it will break in... my arms drop freely... but not when it was first on the bench...

i am still finding the rear diff causing major issues...

Other then the leaking outdrives I find the rear gear strips out from the small pin Tamyia still uses...

I run mod and if i get tapped in the rear while on the brakes the rear diff gear goes...

Anyone else?

Anyone have a good setup for 17.5 @ tamiya?

Yeah, mine stripped out too, ended up spinning a nice rebate into the back of the gear. This was on the last race of its first outing, wondered why it went off toward the end of the run!
FWIW an NT1 gear fitted in there perfect, they must have modeled the new gears on them...not going to strip that sucker

I'd like to get this too!

I've just been running stock setup but 3k rear diff oil, 450 oil on shocks and Ride red springs on a huge asphalt nitro track. Seemed pretty good.

You will remove the fluorine coating that way!

I've got a muchmore ball cup reamer. Magic.