Flourine wears off anyway.. I'm done buying the fluorine stuff. I just run the blue aluminum stuff for everything else now.
- JV

Care to be more specific? (Car, surface, traction level, etc...)

I didn't know this existed!



(must...buy...tools...)

so you put a full set of the alum gears from xray in? direct fit? no shimming?

17.5 set up...

indoor carpet high grip, powers 28 tires, samix aluminum chassis, 1k rear diff oil, standard front and rear toe, shock oil 400 front, 500 rear... yokomo springs, purple front, blue back, camber 1.5 front, 2.5 rear, droop on hudy blocks 5.8 front 4.6 rear, last two screws removed from rear of top deck, protform dart body mounted at 7mm over ground... dialed!

I couldnt wait... local shop has NT1 gears instock... very expenzive... but hey are steel... ill try this weekend and see if they are drop in...

So the 419 comes with the blue competition o-rings (42137) for the dampers. Has anyone tried the x-rings (42214)? What are the performance differences?

Cheers,

I did not try them, but during the build I noticed the 419 shocks have a new plastic rod guide that molds to the contour of the o-ring. The x-ring would most likely get deformed and may cause leaking…not confirmed though.

I too noticed that during my build. I don't have any X-rings so I don't know if they are rounded on either side like the comp o-rings. I was just curious about the x-rings performance with respect to the comp o-rings.

cheers

Funny you should ask. I actually did install the x-rings and the car does feel great with them but i do suspect there's a little more stiction with them.

I just used the steel main gears (I had some lying around from other projects) and the Tamiya small gears. I did replace the shim, I think this was the main cause as it had distorted. I don't recall the actual thickness of the one I used, large diameter like the gear itself, probably around 0.3mm.

Edit: Pretty sure the whole lot would fit, I didn't think it was necessary so only fitted the larger primary gears.

The NT1 gears are slightly thinner... so shimming will be required... the Local shop didnt have the graphite ones in stock... the steel ones are much heavier then stock... but id rather finish the run...

Are you guy hitting things with the diff stripping... because I've had four meetings on my car now, and the diff has been faultless, with the exception of a bit of outdrive seepage (it's not really leaking IMO, as there is still A LOT of oil left in the diff). And that is full bore mod, and a fair few decent hits (one broke the rims on the rhs wheels, the other broke the servo!), and no issues..

lots of meetings with mine now and no issues with any off it. (Although just 13.5 boosted or blinky).

+1 - Ran mod on Sat and 13.5 on Sunday. Took a couple of good hits, broke suspension parts, but the diff is perfection. No leaking, no reduced diff action, heck the V5 blades even stayed in tact.