Thanks, monkeyracing. I like having multiple confirmations.
I guess I will expand my supplychain.


Nice Des!

What did I do? I drove my M05 and put my bevel diff together to swap out with its ball diff tomorrow. I shall see how it does vs the balldiff setup in my small track. I know ball diffs are great for powering out of corners in a bigger track. For small tracks with limited traction, I'm not too sure. Will see.

Nice, I did a few hours of bench racing with John & made some suspension changes to test asap :0)

What does the M05-Ra front upright do? If I change the standard M05 one out. The Ra version just looks stronger, but has extra mountings.
Thanks.

What is a good carpet set up for a M05 ? Tomorrow I'm using oil shocks for the first time, and 3Racing spring set. Which springs, tyres and shock oils are best ?
Thanks

Oh wow, that's a nice row of oil there, Des!

I only use the Tamiya larger bottle sets on my cars, mainly the yellow and white depending on application and piston used.

Hard to tell without knowing how grippy your track is with the tires you use.
If traction is high you can try the heavier weight oils and smaller piston holes or hole number. It's always a test and tune for me.

Okay, so on my M05 I took out the ball diff and using the factory bevel gear diff with Tamiya's ceramic oil which is thicker than the normal grease yet thinner than AW grease.

As far as I can tell, the loose ball diff setting was able to take corners tighter than the bevel diff at higher throttle, but then it could've just be that the ball diff was loosing (or slipping) energy due to the loose clamping of the diff itself. I can get the same entry and exit cornering angles using the bevel diff just as long as I go easy on the throttle. Overall lap time is the same.

In conclusion, on my tight and soso traction basement track, the bevel diff does just fine. I might as go as far as saying I recommend the bevel diff in this situation because you won't need to worry about opening up the gearbox to re-tighten the diff.

I am keeping my V2 balldiff though. I like to have different flavors.

The Ra uprights have a different kingpin offset so you can adjust track/steering width.

The narrowest track is if you use Ra upright with standard C hub, Standard is using Ra upright with Ra C hub or Standard upright with Standard C hub. and the widest track is Standard Upright with Ra C hub.
Narrowest to widest is nearly 5mm difference in track.
Remember that any change in track will require re-adjustment in toe out.

HELP!!!! I lost the 2 silver aluminum sleeves that go into the Aluminum front upright (#54177) any suggestions as to where I can order some?

I don't remember off the top of my head if they are the same as m03r or not...

They are called flanged tubes. Search this thread. Or wait for someone that knows for sure

Great info thank you. Thought it had to do with caster. But I can play with track width now, I like my cars to aggressively rotate into the corners. Hope it's legal at Tamiya USA. Because it looks like the M05v2 setup sheet has this as an option.

http://www.muchhobby.com/shopping/pr...638691e74d451d

Just remember that this changes the offset of the kingpins in the upright and therefore the position of the outer drive cup or CVD joint.
You will either have to remove or add packing (urethane bush/rubber O ring) to the diff cup joint to compensate for this.

Thanks!

Some questions for the M-chassis hive mind:

M-05 V2 Pro, built for TCS rules, stock except for M-05 ball diff. Killshot RPM 21.5, Peak Racing 4500mah stick lipo, Mugen CR-X Pro body, S-Grip radials. Kit setup except lowered to 5mm ride height and a little bit of front toe-in. No tire sauce.

I race at a medium grip asphalt track, and when I turn in to the flat out right hand sweeper at the end of the 170-foot straight, the car rolls over. I was able to catch it once and it looks like what's happening is the inside rear wheel lifts, the car oversteers suddenly about 45 degrees, loses a bunch of speed, then suddenly hooks up again and rolls over. The car handles great everywhere else on the track.

My initial reaction is that it's an aero problem because it only happens at maximum speed. Since I'm following TCS rules, I can't just slap a wing on it to get rid of the aero loose condition.

So I should tune the oversteer out with chassis settings. Seems like I could just go stiffer in the front and softer in the rear, and/or add some rear camber. I was just wondering what the greybeards would do.

Also any recommendations on mounting a motor fan? I want to be able to max out the timing and have some temperature margin. There is a 3-Racing fan with mount but it is out of stock everywhere. I'm thinking of just taking an R1 Wurks fan and 3D printing my own mount. Is that TCS legal?

Anyone put carbon shock towers on M05 Ver II? Will #54320 and #54475 fit on Ver II?