love the volks paint scheem... maybe in light gray..

Yes, this is common for all M05's. The stock shocks and steering are garbage!

Here is what I did to get the steering dialed in:

1) Cut down your end point turning (left and right) to 85% (it may be slightly different for you)

2) replace the stock front axles w/ something like this:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1263

3) use this servo saver:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=914

4) replace the stock steering linkage w/ one of the aluminum setups, -I went w/ the Tamiya brand to keep w/ TCS rules ...yet the 3Racing versions are much cheaper and work just as well (i am told).

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For me that did the trick.
Doing those things you've basically replaced the entire steering from servo to wheel. I felt the same frustration when I first got my M05, it would not stay straight and I felt like I was struggling w/ the car. That was my first upgrade. If you don't want to spend that much, you can start w/ the servo saver I suggested. I suspect most of the problem is w/ the stock servo saver as there is a ton of slop w/ the stock setup in this area. The other thing I found was that the stock wheel axles were locking up a bit when I turned the car hard. Switching to a "swing axle" and reducing my end point a bit removed this completely.

That red BMW looks nice.
So do the CRX's ...the CRX is a nice body, you can tuck the wheels under the body w/o any rubbing ...and really slam the body low to the ground for a lower center of gravity. -i found that the bodies in the M class play a huge role in making your car competitive (this is once you have the chassis dialed in).

Yup, Stock axles bind up pretty bad over 75% EPA

I'm waiting for the M03 Assembly Univ Shaft - (M03 / M05 / M06) Tamiya #53597 to get back in stock somewhere.

Just because I'm a pic whore here are the last few of the BMW after cutting for all the front end clearance.

Thanks,

I've got a few spare kimborough servo savers, so I'll throw one on and see if that helps.

Ryan

The stock hi-torque servo saver has its issues.
I used the method mentioned in this site:
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/koubouomi/6506200.html

Basically, you change the order of the springs to get rid of the slop. The catch is to add some kind of spacing between the first(gold) and second (black) spring, roughly 0.4mm. I used a section of chassis protector for this. Then you just add the third gold spring on top. But this third gold spring is too tight, so you lose almost all the servo-saving features. I had an extra set so I just put another black ring on top instead. For mini, you might be able to get away with just two springs. So far, no slop, and it goes back to neutral fine

I was able to get all 3 rings on but no joke it's a PITA!
It seems to be ok and still gives snap movement for safety so it's now slop free

Thank you Must've misread what someone was saying about kingpins. Happy I have them though, the upper arm screws on mine are junk too!

I hate to say, those replacement screws for the upperarm are rubbish. I have broken two of them where the screw thread ends from a tap to the wall and also when punted by another racer. I have gone back to the standard kit screws.
Just my thoughts though.

My MO5 V2.

The only issue I have with the new chassis, is how easy it is for dirt and grit to get into the gearbox and destroy your gears. I have hopefully resolved this by using battery tape in the motor cavity and battery compartment. I have also blocked the area around the aluminium motor mount with blutack and done the same internally.

Other than that the car is certainly good, but I have improved my car setup, which has rectified a earlier issue when using Ride Inch tyres, especially our control tyre configuration.

I have not taken pictures of revised setup and as still a work in progress, not sharing at this time. All will go out the window, when I change tyres back to sweeps.

For those complaining about the tyres rubbing on the bodies, why not change the width of the wheel hex. Standard is 6mm, can go to 4mm or5mm hexes. They are a Tamiya hopup part.
BTW,

Paint jobs are all paint, no stickers, thanks to MAD for the great work.
Later,

50 Cal

Some are using TCS specs so tire rubbing is just with a few of the bodies listed. Not even really an issue you just have to cut the fenders more as you don't want to change the wheelbase of choice.

Never thought of grit getting into the gear area so I'll line some blue tape in the split section

The most important mini tuning advice there is...

Very true Jim

lol

Thanks to John for giving me some great tips.

Tamiya spacers (1.5mm up front & 1mm in the rear)
Pretty dialed steering & traction with the quick track test