Promatch describes their packs as Hybrids. Does anyone understand the details of what a Hybrid lipo battery is?

Nothing wrong with bullet connectors.Actually its more efficient than deans or any other connector as far as electrics are concerned(much lower resistance). You just have to make sure you plug the polarity in right with bullets! Would be a better setup IMHO. I run 6s boats in parallel and the bullets are the only way to go with boats.Ive seen too many de-soldered connectors in the boat scene. However, the boats pull massive amps!! These motors we use in 1/8th buggy-truggy setups are very similar as far as motor size in boats of 32inch in length.

Just bought a kit from Stormer and have read bits and pieces of this thread, but hope some of you longer term owners can offer a few build tips or must haves I should look into.
Here is what I have so far

-RX8 Gen 2
-Tekin 1700Kv Truggy Motor
-Hitec 7955TG
-SMC 6500 4S batteries

Not sure on wheels / tires yet but sorta partial to Sweeps as they work great on my EB-48.

Sounds like I should look into a different body too?

Thanks,

I would say invest in shoe goo and drywall tape. strengthen around the body post holes, especially the front.

Heck, could even use a piece of scrap lexan to beef it up there too.

Also, when you cut the rear body holes, don't just ream out a circle. Look at the markings on the body and cut out a slot.

Yep, ever since chassis flex was cool I have been doing that with the rear.
Stock body is awesome.

How big is your track? 1700 might not be enough.

The 6000 packs are only the hybrid models. I think it has to do with the new cell composition for the higher voltage packs.

I had the new 1700Kv motor sitting around for a couple years and now it finally has a purpose and should work well at a friends backyard track I frequent https://www.facebook.com/pages/Flyin...=page_internal. I'll see how it does at the local race track though which is significantly larger and has a long straight, if needed I'll try a 1900Kv

Okay.
So far I recognized 3 errlors:
a) TKR1333's hex can be really fast destroyed.
b) outter diff shimms are really hard or impossible to put. On one of my diffs I tried few hours (4?) to put it. Impossible. Now only one is in gearbox.
c) TKR1346 aren't 15mm. They are 16mm. And it's small problem.

That diff shimms are the biggest problem of all. And yes - I tried to cut small triangles. Still nope.

Yes, the TKR1333 can strip easily. I bought a bag to keep some on hand. For Christmas I got a Makita power screwdriver and some nice hex tip bits. That really helps keeping them from stripping. The hex recess in the screw is not very deep so if the hex tip of the tool wobbles at all (like when doing it by hand) the hex recess strips easily. Plus the screw is so long that the power tool makes life so much easier.
You may or may not need two diff shims. Only use as many as you need to get proper gear backlash
I haven't had a problem with TKR1346.

A: Never had a problem, have to use a good driver. Just suggesting.
B: The shims to shim the diff L & R? They are tricky but most of the ones I build I use two on the LS and just drop it in with that side at a slight angle first so they start and drops right in.
C: Interesting I will have to check that out. Never heard that before? Might just be a issue in the kit only.

Hope this helps.

By default if precautions aren't made, yes you can strip TKR1333 with some effort. There are a few things you can do to help prevent this.

1) Quality driver, quality driver, quality driver. Even if you have a cheap handle but want to buy a good quality tip (hudy, even protek brands seem decent), many are interchangable.
2) Use chapstick or oil to assist with the first threading. This will make things much easier.
3) On the first threading go slow and take breaks switching from side to side. It's a long screw and a long thread, so you actually can build up quite a bit of heat on the material.
4) Last but not least, it's not really needed if you follow some of the above, but buy an extra screw pack and use one for the initial thread screw then put in a good screw afterwards.

Thanks for everyone. What's LS of diff?

I agree on TKR1333

If you can do it, I would replace with a cap head screw if it is possible. i did that in a pinch as that is what I had and it worked fine however long term don't know.