I strongly recommend reaming the arms as stated in the manual. Maybe it isn't as bad on truggy since it has more leverage on the arms to wear in. However when I build my EB I didn't ream them and they never wore in. My car handled horribly until I found this problem and reamed them.

The hinge pins won't rotate freely in the pills, especially if running a lot of toe or sweep. If you don't ream the arms so it can rotate freely there will be a lot of resistance in suspension travel. That's the last place you want it.

Search eBay for 4mm reamer and snag one or use a drill. I don't recommend the Integy one. Their metal is too soft and has trouble shaving Tekno arms.

This is spot on. ALWAYS ream your arms when building the kit or installing new arms. We ream them out until the hinge pin can fall through on its own (~4.2mm). This ensures the suspension can do what it needs to do all the time even if a little dirt gets in. Don't be concerned with 'slop' in this area because if the arms are binding for any reason, the car will not handle correctly.

Are there any major changes in the near future for the ET48? ET48.2?

I seriously doubt it. It comes with almost all the option parts right in the box. In my opinion it's the best etruggy on the market right now and there's no need for a .2

just have checked the hingepin/ arm play on the truggy after a few runs and you are right, they needed to be reemed out...

On my old eb48 i have never reamed the arms and they had enough play, but the xt arms also needed to be reamed.
checked also 2 pairs of new "old" non xt arms and they are fine without reaming.

Not sure I would want to screw down the ends with anything actually inserted through the ball cup. Seems likely to deform it.

I lock the rod in a small set of vice grips, start the link by hand, then use another small set of vice grips to thread it on.

You aren't actually associated with Tekno in any way, right? Even though you also have TLR in your user name, it looks a little like you are.

-Chris

I haven't built an ET, but have built several SCT and EB vehicles.
That being said, the same thing should work for links and ends.
I don't claim this to be the best or easiest, but it has always worked for me and requires nothing special, nor lubrication or reaming of the ends.

I will set them up on the bench as they will be on the vehicle, then insert the balls.
Then I lock the link in vice grips at the middle and start the end on by hand.
Once it is started and on solidly, I then slip a hex driver through the ball and spin, making it easy, and also breaking in the joint a little if it is tight.

Just be careful not to force the ball out of position and mar the cup if you intend to bottom out the end and then back off to adjust.

anyway as long as you done it that's good, FYI i race ET48 and SCT410 (but not a sponsored driver), look on Tekno RC Nation FB Page i'm an admin on that page have a lots of thing anyway I can help fellow tekno owners, and also look on FB Page Tekno RC Owners Club also helping in there fellow racers,

btw im racing Tekno and TLR

Hopefully I don't get in trouble for linking to another forum, but I thought this might be of interest to this thread. Somebody is modding for a much larger/longer motor and bashing, and it looks good!

UltimateRC ET48 thread

that guy has a thread here in rctech too I believe.

Now that this truggy has been out for a while have the setups changed much? I just picked up another one and was curious if the setups have stayed the same? Has Lutz posted any good truggy setups since he made the switch from TD?

Anyone?

I haven't seen a Lutz setup for ET yet on the Team side of things

Me either that's why I was hoping someone on here would know of a setup he likes.

Can a MOD please add this as a sticky to the front of EVERY Tekno thread? I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.

Tekno Screw List:

Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8