Received the Samix alu and carbon chassis' a few days ago. Here are the weights:

- Stock TRF419 carbon: 70.9g
- Samix TRF419 carbon: 70.2g
- Samix TRF419 aluminium: 102.7g
- Samix TRF419 aluminium with battery and fan mounts: 118.2g

More on the Samix 419 alu and carbon chassis; http://kentech.blogs.se/

Well, to compare that to HPI, it's very close to;

Gold
Silver
Blue

Is anyone changing out for different ball studs and ball cups? Mine dont seem to be super "free". I dont know if it even really matters and i assume that they will free up after some use.

Ready for more testing tomorrow :-)

Does the kit come with the complete sway bar kit (soft medium and hard for front and rear).. or just one for front and one for rear

One per.

Did you try squeezing the ball cups per the manual hint? Or do you own a ball cup reamer?



I'm going to use fluorine coated ball cups throughout for this build - will report back if they are nicer (but I didn't notice the old one being bad)

I did. Weird thing they are good in the rear. Fronts are snug

The (plain/blue anodised) Aluminium (or steel) ballstuds are a fraction smaller than the fluorine coated ball ends hence a little loose in the cups. The fluorine coated are perfect (no play, whilst free to move). Maybe the fluorine coating makes the difference.

Snug on the front inner or outer?

ie: at the bulkhead with the H5 or the kingpin (which is fluorine coated I think)

Both at the bulkhead and the camber ball link.

Second day of testing. Last run the diff started to seep a bit.

Anyone using an aftermarket o ring on there shocks? My shocks seem to be leaking a little more than my 418 ones did and i am not sure if i used different or kit o rings on that car.

If so part number would also be good.

The blue ones seep a little more than the White. But the shocks are more free as a result.

Have you used green slime (Muchmore best) or VG shock grease?

Have you got a reamer for ball cups?