And on the Wire size I have been using 18g for all my 1s stock classes. ip to 13.5t zero heating issues of the wire. for the battery I like mine short and 16g for every car.

resistance does change as the heat increases so you need to watch out for that. I go by Wattach expect through a wire not the amperage. for me its 250w or less I use 18g Above that to 500w I use 16.

TKO anti-slip tape review.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=A20w8VpUW4I

TKO Racing website www.tkocompetitiondev.com

Anybody here race on concrete? How is the surface and how did you prep it?

Anyone have any information about much more 1s ESC release date?

can one of the engineers or suspension gurus out there please explain what is the supposed advantage of using Xenon steering blocks, the ones that have camber angle built into the steering block itself? I'm having some trouble wrapping my head around the effect of using a "pre-cambered" steering block vs the usual method of setting the camber just by adjusting the lean angle of the kingpin.

I have been curious on this myself so I did some digging.
Below is the explanation from reflex racing.

Use these steering hubs with built in camber to get less roll center change in the front end of you 12th scale. With the camber being built into the knuckle, the angle of the king pin is much more straight, which allows the car to maintain full tire contact patch while at the same time allowing for roll center to stay closer to neutral. This translates into a smoother car that has all the steering, but is more predictable.

BD

Good to note above that this is when the kingpins inserts are installed backwards from what XENON recommends.

With the kingpin angled inwards more, there is a higher camber gain and roll center change in the front end. This makes the car more aggressive and provides more steering in the middle of the corner. This is good to use in combination with longer upper arms. When used with no spacers on the upper arm in the AE style front ends, the angled in kingpin makes the car very aggressive.

Think of it this way...when you adjust the upper arm for camber you are shortening it. When you shorten the upper arm you decrease the radius the that the the upper eyelet travels in. This increases the camber gain. If you can put the camber in the steering block then you can leave the upper arm longer and decrease the camber gain.

Yes but that's not all that is going on. Keeping the kingpin upright yet still having camber through use of an angled block will reduce steering axis inclination and increase steering axis offset (scrub radius). These two changes will have significantly more impact on handling than a fraction of a millimeter change in upper arm length will.

Running it the other way around as Christian suggested will increase steering axis inclination and reduce offset which should make steering dramatically more aggressive.

Great Product. Keeps the Battery in place on my 12th scale and keeps the chassis from getting all scratched up too.

Also his flat and finished diff rings and ceramic balls are awesome. Had it in the car for 2 months with no maintenance.

http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/tko-b5-pan-car-diff-rings/

TKO offers differential rings and they look SAWEEEET!

I'll have to order some and try them out and do a product review for you guys.

They are Supa dialed
No more sanding diff rings

anyone help me with rollout....
12R5.1 (lipo chassis)
8.5T (reedy sonic mach 2) blinky (tekin rsx)
track= 48' x 100' ozite... technical with medium to high grip.

thanks

8.5 turn blinky? That's new.

yes blinky... i will be be running 17.5 blinky as my main class. with the amount of time i will have between 17.5 stock BLINKY and modified... only time to switch motor/pinion and spur.
ok?