Finally got rid of the cheap traxxas wheelie bar. Now there isn't much traxxas left on this truck lol. So far the truck seems to be handling new steering upgrade and MIP shafts. Haven't had a hard run yet but plan to this weekend.


OLD




NEW

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K9552Q4tgt4


http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zlyoSm6tvGk


http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tig7WgBX3ho



http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2b3QpeI9pWA

I have been beating this truck up all season since I built it. Finding out what needs some adjustment and what needs a mod. I have since built this thing added quiet a few upgrades.

- added a PVC pipe between the front and rear skid and bulkheads to keep the skids from bending too much.
- added a second servo saver. I started with one stock and went to an alloy saver. That didn't work like I thought it would and went to 2 stock servo savers and love it so much better.
-at the bottom end of the shocks attaching to the lower a arm, I added a lock nut to the back side, the screws just being threaded into the arm would back out over time and I also think it created to much flex. The but allows for a better and tighter attachment.
- on the under side, I took a stock skid and cut it to fix an open area of the flm skid to add protection against wear, similar to the rpm skid.
- I added some axial posts in between the chassis braces for added support. Looks kool and adds some more support to keep the under carriage solid.
- black wire loom, this really is just a cosmetic feature. I'm sure it may help protect the wires but other than that it just cleans everything up.
-I had Teflon shims for the wheel hubs, it was all I had at the time and now replaced those with steel shims and tighten the play in the wheel hubs.
-went from a 10k diff fluid to a 30k.
-painted a new body, added drywall tape and shoe goo to the under side and backed in spray bedliner. Seems really sturdy now.

All these mods I have yet to physically test yet. The truck has been done for these repairs for a few months now and she is rdy for another beating. Here are a few pics.

Dual servo saver and traxxas skid to cover flm skid.


One of the chassis braces with the axial post.


Lock nuts to attach shock to a arm.

Wire loom.


Both cross members.


Rear PVC pipe to bulk and skid


Body.

Truck is looking good and tough!

Thanks! Its all been done due to everyone helping me from the beginning and also on other forums but b.c there are ppl to lend the helping hand this is what happens. So I now share my wisdom with others.

Killer build! I'm about to start my build and I'm wondering where you ordered the flm chassis from? I can't find it in stock anywhere and only the LCG chassis on ebay.

I browse eBay from time to time and find the regular flm chassis on there usually. When I purchased mine, I order from RC monster. If you go the flm website you will see a link for dealers. That is one way to find the chassis. You could sent RC monster an email about it. Mike is a good guy.

I'm digging this truck so far, I'm still debating on 1/8 shocks and flm towers. The truck runs great as it is, so I don't see a reason to upgrade those atm.


I did however, break the front rpm skid. It seems to dig in the ground and collect mud. I was curious with the t bonez front bumper doing the same with the way it looks? Looks like a big shovel. Anyone have a good front bumper?

Nice build, like the steering mod and extra bracing. Never saw your thread before but man they're similar Tried the center diff in the tranny and didn't like it went back to the gear setup. Think I'm going to do the FLM Hybrid 1/8 diffs when these go. For now, properly shimmed stock diffs have been holding up to 4s.

[QUOTE=WTs Pauly;13763661]Nice build, like the steering mod and extra bracing. Never saw your thread before but man they're similar Tried the center diff in the tranny and didn't like it went back to the gear setup. Think I'm going to do the FLM Hybrid 1/8 diffs when these go. For now, properly shimmed stock diffs have been holding up to 4s.


I like the mt4 tires, gives it different look for the Maxx. I started this build a awhile back and have since changed a few things and I think its pretty solid now. This is what the old body looked like before it got retired. The new body is reinforced with drywall tape and show glue, backed in spray bedliner. Bedliner on the roof and bed rails as well but the roof as since taken a few flips on the pavement and doesn't look so good anymore lol.







Before I backed in bedliner.

i checked all the dealers and sent an email to rc monster last night, hopefully he gets back to me today. The maxx i just purchased on ebay has flm towers, flm hybrid bulk with diffs (nib), al skids, rpm arms. It should ship out today and im stoked! I ordered a set of trencher x's mounted on 3.8 desperado's and i recieved those yesterday. I really want to get this flm chassis ordered so i get it when i get the maxx.

What's the shock setup? I would probably go thru the diffs when you get make sure they are still okay and fluid is okay. Mabe shim them if needed. I would try to dual servo saver setup I have, with all the extra aluminum, the truck weighs in at with shell and batteries 13 .lbs. Since I added the extra saver, my steering has made a drastic improvement.


That's really it tho, I have slowly worked the bugs out of mine and think I have what I want now. This thing takes a great beating.

How do you like the bog bore shocks? i havnt decided on shocks yet. what size shims will i need to shimm the diffs? The diffs are brand new and never ran that are coming with the truck. also where did you get the straps for your batteries?

The big bore work great. I see some improvement from them since I changed how I had them fastened to the lower a arm. I run the big bores with 45wt fluid and VG racing springs. Works fine which is why I haven't changed them over to buggy shocks yet. The flm chassis comes with battery straps. I broke one finally last weekend and went to home depot, bought some velcro and works fine.

For the diff's, if its never been ran than I guess leave them alone. I would just be curious if they were shimmed or shimmed properly. The 1/8 diff conversion will use 6mm or 8mm and 10mm shims. I'd have to look later to be 100% on that. I know the diff cup will use the 10mm and the pinion will use 8mm but the out drives from the cup I can't remember if they are 6mm I believe they are. I can check tonight bud