the classic flm emaxx and rpm build/comments & thoughts
#136
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 333
The big bore work great. I see some improvement from them since I changed how I had them fastened to the lower a arm. I run the big bores with 45wt fluid and VG racing springs. Works fine which is why I haven't changed them over to buggy shocks yet. The flm chassis comes with battery straps. I broke one finally last weekend and went to home depot, bought some velcro and works fine.
For the diff's, if its never been ran than I guess leave them alone. I would just be curious if they were shimmed or shimmed properly. The 1/8 diff conversion will use 6mm or 8mm and 10mm shims. I'd have to look later to be 100% on that. I know the diff cup will use the 10mm and the pinion will use 8mm but the out drives from the cup I can't remember if they are 6mm I believe they are. I can check tonight bud
For the diff's, if its never been ran than I guess leave them alone. I would just be curious if they were shimmed or shimmed properly. The 1/8 diff conversion will use 6mm or 8mm and 10mm shims. I'd have to look later to be 100% on that. I know the diff cup will use the 10mm and the pinion will use 8mm but the out drives from the cup I can't remember if they are 6mm I believe they are. I can check tonight bud
#137
Thread Starter
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 429
From: South Carolina
Yah flm doesn't really deal with people first hand. Emailing will be the best way to contact them. I understand, when building mine o had packages after packages. Its was exciting and I love the truck.
When you shim the diff, the objective is to eliminate all play out of the diff. That's play with the pinion and spur (pinion moving g back and fourth). Then play with the diff cup (side to side in the housing) but also this sets your mesh between the too as well.
When you shim the diff, the objective is to eliminate all play out of the diff. That's play with the pinion and spur (pinion moving g back and fourth). Then play with the diff cup (side to side in the housing) but also this sets your mesh between the too as well.
#138
Thread Starter
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 429
From: South Carolina
Alright guys....been some time but I have been playing with this rig ever since the completed build. I have since a few weeks ago, rebuilt everything with new single monster 2270 savox servo. Added a cc 1717 1650kv motor with an unlocked xo-1 extreme esc with my cc bec. I ruined my trenchers and taped up some mashers which don't balloon at a all. Upgraded to a new spectrum Rx, this truck is a blast to drive every time. I have also since bumped up from 4s to 5s......seems like the sweet spot. That old mm2 system and 2200kv motor got dropped into a slash 4x4 I bought......and man that thing is a beast on 4s aswell!!!
Hope y'all like what I have done. Against his is by no means a shelf queen, it never has and never will!



I have since added the new servo but haven't added a new pic.
Hope y'all like what I have done. Against his is by no means a shelf queen, it never has and never will!



I have since added the new servo but haven't added a new pic.
#139
Thread Starter
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 429
From: South Carolina
I also about a week ago performed a mod on the 17mm wheel hexes to eliminate the wheel slop. After a yr of driving the ID of the wheel hex as worn from the axle threads, causing excessive wheel wobble. So I have added a bress insert and drilled the hex out to put these in and since as got rid of all the slop in the hub!!!
This is before I filed those inserts down to fit inside the hub.

My jig to drill the hub out with a 6mm bit.

Insert is applied to the hub

This is before I filed those inserts down to fit inside the hub.

My jig to drill the hub out with a 6mm bit.

Insert is applied to the hub

#140
Are those Axial posts threaded all the way through?
Are they 3mm threads or 4mm?
#141
Thread Starter
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 429
From: South Carolina
Sorry for the long reply. They are 3mm threads. Use a 45mm post with a spacer on either side. Axial part #'s - axa1412 and axa1426
#143
Thread Starter
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 429
From: South Carolina
Here is a current update of my build. Instead of reposting I added a link from the traxxas forum where I have my info posted. I started outfitting with lst diffs. If anyone is interested.
https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?9033787-Emaxx-CC1717-from-xo-1-1650kv/page2
https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?9033787-Emaxx-CC1717-from-xo-1-1650kv/page2
#144
Thread Starter
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 429
From: South Carolina
Here is a current update of my build. Instead of reposting I added a link from the traxxas forum where I have my info posted. I started outfitting with lst diffs. If anyone is interested.
https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...1-1650kv/page2
https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...1-1650kv/page2
#145
Thread Starter
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 429
From: South Carolina
Since building my lst I have lost interest in my emaxx. So it's been sitting as a roller for some time now. I just recently took a beach trip and lost my slash in the ocean.....very odd and sad it happened. But either way, I want it back and I don't have a need for this emaxx anymore. I'd like to part ways with it if anyone is interested in it. I'd prefer to sell it as a roller but if no interest then I guess I could part it out. Send me a pm and if I get enough interest I can start a for sale add.




