This from wikipedia: "Formulation[edit]
WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product was not patented in 1953 to avoid disclosing the details of its composition; the window of opportunity for patenting the product has long since closed.[4][7] WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

50% "aliphatic hydrocarbons". The manufacturer's website specifically claims that this fraction in the current formulation cannot be accurately referred to as Stoddard solvent, a similar mixture of hydrocarbons.[8]
<25% petroleum base oil, presumably a mineral oil or light lubricating oil.
12-18% low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon, to reduce the viscosity for use in aerosols. This fraction evaporates during application.
2-3% carbon dioxide, presumably as a propellant, is now used instead of liquefied petroleum gas to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability.
<10% inert ingredients.
The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients:

60–80% heavy naphtha (a petroleum product used e.g. in wick type cigarette lighters), hydrogen treated
1–5% carbon dioxide
It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. (Ordinary rubber is ruined by repeated exposure to petroleum products.) Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40.

Wired published an article giving the result of gas chromatography and mass spectroscopy, claiming that its ingredients also make it resistant to freezing.[9]"

Any suggestions for a smallish sugar and calcium treated outdoor track? Surface is hard and takes rubber in most places... yet still leaves light fluff after each qual round. Air temp varies with the FLA weather... but track temp has been as high as 110 with the sun on it to 55 with the sun down and the lights on.

Pretty much the worst case scenario lol

Egads! Sugar and calcium?? And a 55° temp shift. You're right, that has to be one of the worst case scenarios. Luckily for us up here in Minnesota the track never thaws so there isn't much variation in surface temp (just kidding!) I guess I'm curious what you are currently doing and how you think it is falling short? I'm assuming at a bare minimum you are changing compound depending on track temp if not tread pattern, insert, sauce, etc. for every round.

Outdoor sunny high of 90+
Normally outdoor with light fluff or dust on top.
First choice and probably the safest choice. Proline Holeshot M3 rear and X2 Scrubs up front would be my choice on a sunny day. Maybe X2 rears as well depending on grip.
If the track is rutted, then Blockades M3 in the rear. I normally don't run barcode type tires outdoors, its more of an on-off tire unless its sugared and very high grip.

Other alternatives would be JC 3Ds which is a combination of a barcode and mini pin in green or blues. This works well when the track is grooved up and will probably be more consistent than your regular barcodes especially when the track starts to dry. Its the in between tire of a barcode and holeshot. I hardly ever will use a full barcode type tire outdoors unless its sugared to hell and very grippy. Cause its either an on-off tire. It's different indoors.

You can also try AKA Impact Med or Softs depending on the temp. Impacts give you more rear grip than the holeshots, but I find the holeshots a bit more aggressive if you need battle it out. Impacts are too planted.

For night time. M4 or Supersoft. Holeshots M4 or impacts SS. If they water at night，then I would bring out the 3Ds in black or green.

Yes it was a tough day for sure... my pit area was swamped with tools and tires. lol Several weeks prior i was there before the calcium and sugar and was pretty damn close to hooked up till the sun dropped...

My initial call was soft Impacts. I even tried varied pin lengths, and a set of near bald medium Impacts early on in the day treated with Paragon and heat that worked well in the groove but pushed badly (average 1 second slower per lap than TQ).

Later on as the track cooled, i went with soft Impacts as they added a little water and the groove started to deteriorate more than earlier, moisture retention was somewhat spotty (i felt an SS tire wouldnt give me the penetration i needed) and only washed (Dawn) and towel/heat gunned them dry.

From what i gather TQ was using JC's... but didnt get close enough to know if it was 3D's, or the compound. His car was definitely better than mine in the finals, as mine would easily slide out of the groove if i tried to make use of some corner speed, and pulling the front end up with a stab of the throttle wasnt an option. I ended up being a lap down by the end of the final.

I had minimal practice time and chased setup changes in the quals (i DID try different rear wings as average top speed there is slower than my home track, but had a new body i didnt run as i didnt want to compound the changes). The car was way off compared to the previous visit (took TQ and finished 2nd). I think the Impacts will work with chassis changes i noted for the next race there... but im sure there is something better as i dont run on sugar and calcium regularly.

From what im reading it looks like some 3D's are in my future. Maybe both green and black compound? I feel i really need to avoid the 'long' pin on the Holeshot... they can feel pretty edgy to me as well...

Used LW blue this pass weekend on an outdoor track. The track was slippery with the moisture coming up and the air temp at night was 45 deg by the mains. LW blue helped a lot but not as much as during the day when it's 70 to 80 deg. I sauced my tires for 15 min before each run and wiped off with CRC green can break cleaner just before hitting the track.

Happy Holidays Everyone! Bringing this thread back up! Who wants to talk about the JC Dirt Tech vs AKA a bit more. I know we touched on it a bit.

Also has anyone had a chance to try the softer compounds on indoor clay now that it's colder? I've been trying silver and I'm headed to the track later today to do a bit more testing at SCVRC in Santa Clarita, CA. I'll try to snag some video for everyone.

speaking of, This new AKA Track Database is great:

http://www.raceaka.com/Track-Database_ep_71-1.html

Just wondering... I think saucing the tires generally softens them. So why not use a softer compound instead? For instance, why not use soft compound tires instead of clay compound tires and save yourself the trouble of saucing it?

There are several answers you would get for this question.

For me... i use the treated firmer compound when parts of the racing surface has a tendency to give way to the physical design of the tire pins/bars... but there are still sections of the track that are hard as a rock and will respond to a stickier tire.

The additive is used for the harder sections of the track, and the firmer compound is used so the pins/bars mechanically dig, instead of folding over as if you used a super soft tire.

Slicks are different, as you may use a sauced soft compound (versus a super soft) to keep the chassis from plowing into a high bite racing surface. The results are cooler batteries, motors, and generally faster lap times.

Weight of the chassis is also a variable, and works in conjunction with track/tire temperature. More weight adds friction between the tire and track surface (generating heat), and since traction is defined as friction between a tire and racing surface... too much of it would not work well with a softer compound... somewhat regardless of tread pattern... treated with additive or not.

On a deeper level, weight transferred between a chassis that rolls... and a chassis that doesnt roll, could dictate the need for a different compound/tire additive/pattern on the same chassis on the same track. Hell, driving style can affect it as well.

Its kind of a black art of sorts... but a lot of it follows a logical understanding of how a chassis transfers weight... and the tire/insert makes use of the energy forced through it.

VERY COOL!

New Shoes!
FEATURES
Trail/Comp sticky R35 compound
INCLUDES
Two 3.8" BF Goodrich T/A Tires with Black Foam Inserts
SPECIFICATIONS
Width: 2.9" (74mm)
Outer Diameter: 7.25" (184mm)

Woot.. BF goodrich makes R/C tires now.

Not to get off topic but... there are some really cool things in R/C now a days. That LOSI up there... the AXIAL Yeti. Some custom trophy trucks ive seen pics of...

Can you imagine a class of true trophy trucks? That would be AWESOME!

Back to tires....has anyone ever really tinkered with different methods to glue up short course tires? On the outside bead, there is the extra glue surface that manufacturers like JConcepts have added glue holes for. Does adding the glue at that point really have a benefit?

Also, clay compound tires...they have always been a bit trickier to glue and get to stay. Anyone have any wonderful suggestions for prep or adhesive that help them stick more permanently to the rim?