I have mine setup that was as well; fine balance with so much tension on the two springs I have on the braking side and the throttle spring when the servo is at neutral though (always fighting the springs).

I dont think I udnerstand what you are saying? Are you saying its hard to find balance?

I've been using these brakes since around April. The longer I use them the happier I am. One big thing to know first...when you run these brakes for the first time...run them HARD, do a practice where you're not concerned about lap times and just be aggressive with the brakes. They need to break in a little. After one good run, adjust your break pad screws and you should be good to go. When you do a center diff fluid change or about 90-120min worth of run time, LIGHTLY sand the pads with 400grit sand paper just to knock some of the build up off. Otherwise I love them. No brake fad. They have the same STOPPING power as the metal rotors they just get a softer feel so they're not so grabby.

The stock spring on the brake linkage has to be cut when you slide the furthest forward collet toward the rear of the buggy to take up all the slack in the adjustable rod ends (if left perpendicular to the center diff housing, there is about 1/4" or more slack before engagement). Left stock, it puts a lot of pressure on the servo while it's in the neutral position so it's always fighting to stay centered.

Did I do any better Guess a picture is worth a thousand words in this scenario.

Ok that is a problem I encountered as well. There was allot of slack. I just used the collet to compress the spring, and yes it fights to stay centered. I doubt its enough to do any damage to my Hitec 7955TG's, but I was curious as how to set it up better. I may try cutting the spring down a little. But some of the slack may have been due to not having the brake pad bolts tight enough and there being to much play in the pads.

Either way I ran my buggy for the first time this weekend. Really liked it. Right away I was turning faster laps than my ebuggy, I like how the nitro rolls more freely. Was just easy to drive. Looking forward to taking it to the Lone Star at Indy in about a month.

I have the screws completely seated on the pads. I have a 7940 on throttle and while the servo has plenty of power, the constant load is an issue. With some tinkering, you can get the 3 springs (if you're running one on both sides of the brake linkage) to help mitigate the problem.

So I just figured out that my 4PKS-R can fix this problem. I can set the brake so that when it is engaged it automatically jumps away from neutral to the point where the slack is taken up and the rest of the response from that point is linear so its not like using positive expo. Haven't had a chance to test this out but looks like a really useful feature. For those with a 4pks-r it is explained on page 52 of the manual.

Hmm, I'll have to investigate this feature and see if it's available on my radio.

Edit: there is a function labeled TH-Acceleration (throttle and brake can be adjusted independently) and it looks like it can be used in a manner as you describe. I'll monkey around with it a little later to see how/if it works.

Yes you can do it that way as well but there's still a slight delay as it "jumps" I tried it and didn't like it so I just adjusted the neutral position of the brake levers so that they engaged immediately

Love how nice new engines and pipes look. Finish on the new header is pretty bad though This pipe is way shorter than my 2013, need a new pipe hanger (gonna try the Xray with the spring/loop on it. Hole in the body for the exhaust is going to be huge now too. This engine pushes the clutch bell considerably further forward so the Serpent bell should be a perfect fit (Losi is a bit long).

Looks nice! Go get it dirty.

What xray hanger has the spring/loop? I have one w a spring/loop and it was a pain to bend. I found the easiest way was to buy extra tekno ones and use a lighter or better yet a butane lighter and heat the metal and it bends into shape really easily. I'm always trying new pipes and headers.

In the picture it looks like the hanger mounting block is in the forward position, I assume you know you can rotate it?

Tis pointing forward. The stinger on the 2013 was actually forward of the cutout in mud guard so the original hanger was cut very short. This is the wire I picked up.

Do Losi brakes (disc and calipers) fit on nb48?

First brass upgrade for NB48 ever!


Too bad stock filter mount has fixed position