Got my NB48 built and went to break in the engine saturday. Not a good experience. All my own fault. 90% of my problem was that I didn't have the wheel on the starter box properly lined up with flywheel. It would touch the flywheel but was rubbing on the chassis too because it was to close to the outer edge of the chassis. I thought the motor was just tight. Anyway extra strain on the starter box quickly burned up some wiring inside that I had to repair. Fixed everything then gave further attention to my problems and figured out the problem with the alignment. Made the necessary adjustments and gave it another go yesterday and everything went very smooth. Got my engine broken in and ready for a race tune,.... and plenty of crashing.

can you post a current total set up?

I had a hell of a time trying to get the first starter box I purchased to even reach the flywheel. After shimming it etc and messing with it for a day, I finally gave up and got an RB box which worked perfectly with no mods needed.
I am completely new to the RC scene, but am learning quickly what works and what doesn't. The NB48 works! And remember, slow is fast

The front to back alignment was a little tricky and I guess I didn't think about side to side alignment. But I suffered some aggravation at home that I didn't have to suffer at the track and that is always a good thing.

Here it is

I have found the nest way to set up the box is mark the flywheel center on the chassis then remove the engine and set the box up where you can see everything. then you can see the wheel completely centered up.
I use the Protek box on buggy and ofna box on truggy, however the ofna box for my truggy will also start my buggy without a lot of jiggling

Right on. Buggy looks good

Mo, my original box was the Protek one as well but I couldn't get it to work. Then again, I am/was a total nitro novice and at that time I wasn't aware of the awesome help that you all give here on RCT
So far, this hobby has been fun and a never ending learning curve which I am really enjoying

Seems no matter how much you know, you always learn something new. There is always some neat little trick somebody has figured out to save time wrenching etc. You always see something going on in the pits.

Very true. The amount of knowledge I have gleaned just from reading these boards has been amazingly helpful. The Tekno crew in this thread alone are just one of the reasons I chose to run this buggy. Most of the other buggy threads scared me away! I keed, I keed...

Ordered some X3 Lockdowns and Blue Double Dee's to test out this week.

Looks great

Here's my current setup Rear tower upper shock position should be no. 3 instead

there isn't a lot of balance to that set up. I would think shocks too soft to start.
when you say on power are you referring to out of a corner or in a sweeper?

I understand the Tekno performs very differently to an MBX7 (what I run), but I couldn't help but notice some things.. For example:

- Equal camber, general rule of thumb is slightly more rear (about 0.5-1 degree more in rear)
- Equal ride height can negatively affect weight transfer, I would try lowering or raising either side by 1mm or so and see how that performs
- Same shock oils - again, general "rule of thumb", is to run slightly thicker front oils
- Excessive droop can really make the car feel lazy because there is more body roll, and since you're on a bumpy track could be unsettling the car. It would initially seem to make sense to run as much droop as possible on a bumpy track but it can really hurt how the car performs.

I could be way off on these but they're just what I noticed at a glance Hope this helps

Some things I would try.

Less anti-squat.
Less toe.
Longer rear link (i like outside on tower outside on hub)

Less front kickup.

Since you are using the Serpent bladders i would go down in shock oil. 32.5f 27.5r