Maybe the set screw is not all the way in or too tight and binding? Most people don't use the set screw and just put a little locktight or CA glue or shrink tube on the band that goes around the cva (to keep it from spinning) that retains the pin to make sure the cva is as free as possible. That way you don't have to use the set screw.

Still check the manual and make sure it doesn't say 2 limiters in the rear. If it shows 2 and you have 1 you will pop the axles out of the diff cups. At work, no access to the manual.

Ok the CVAs were the problem! I rebuild them and now no binding! Apparently it makes a difference which side you insert the CVA pin into the coupler! It would of been nice if the instruction noted that. Anyhow, thanks for everyone's input - it defintely helped to narrow down my problem area. Thanks.

G

Yea thx, I didn't use the set screw and used CA glue. Again, apparently I insert the pin on the wrong side of the coupler - that was the problem....thanks man!

I think I know what your problem is. Did you use the set screw to hold the CVA pin in? If so take it out that is probably what is causing the binding issue you are having.

I didn't use my set screw and use CA glue. So I took apart my CVAs and put them back together and now no binding. It's the weirdest thing, either I didn't insert the pin correctly the first time or there's some directional requirements (which is not covered in the instruction). Regardless, now it's fixed!!! They are smooth...=))

Thanks for all the help.

Gary

Ok, I'm a total noob...I bought protek saddle packs for my car. It came with an extra small plastic wire/plug with blue/red/black thin wiring that is already solder onto the main red and black leads. What is that for? I don't intend to use the wires that came with the pack. I was simply going to route my own. But I am only familiar with black and red...lol - the last time I raced, we were using good old NIMH....

Thanks.

G

That's for balance charging the packs.

Welcome back to the fun!

Thanks!

Oh, that sounds important! Is that what folks do now, balance charge lipo packs? Now I know why my charger included a weird looking electronic board...lol! If that's the case, then I better keep that wiring setup. Although, I woudl have to say, I don't see that wire on folks battery setup over the internet?

BTW, I am planning to run the Xerun 6.5T - does 81/19 sound about right? I do also have a 84 spur.

Thx.

G

EDIT:Already answered

Some don't balance charge but the tech in the good chargers now makes it to where it really doesn't take much longer and it is safer for your packs.

If one pack is 0.3v lower than the other and you non balance charge, charger will stop when it sees a full 8.4v. But one pack could be 4.0 and the other 4.4.
Not good, over charged cell.
Then when you run the lower cell may get lower than you would want because the esc is just looking for an overall 6.8v (or whatever you set it at, I use 7v) to cut off at.

Anyway, short answer, it's best to balance charge to make sure both cells are at the same voltage.

Thanks for the info! Man, I forgot how wonderfully helpful everyone is on this board! Glad that I'm back!

G

On the saddles, make sure that the wire that has the middle balance plug wire goes to the positive terminal.

Guys,

Does 81/19 sound about right for my XeRun 540 SD - 6-5t?! I am running the avid triad slipper with 81 spur. Trying to figure out what is a good pinion starting point.

Thx.

G

That should be fine.

I usually just vary from 18-20T with an 81T spur and then adjust motor timing and boost as needed.

I currently have a b44.2 with a Avid chassie I bought used..I would like to convert it to the Schelle shorty conversion.What do I need? Shorty conversion and the Schelle chassie?