some of us hate a lot of wire for our saddle packs, so mine are not long enough to go around the shock.

Gotcha.... I tried to wire up a pack with all bars and no wire on my CK, just couldn't squeeze it under the shock.... So I understand fully now....

Ya know this gives me an idea!! I have race packs and practice packs. I think I am going to put a long jumper wire on all my practice packs and save my poor ballcups the wear and tear of being popped on and off during practice.

I'll keep my short jumpers for my race packs.

Ray

ray,

why don't you just replace with the xray parts, then you can just use a 3mm hex to take them off? I am sure you have plenty of these laying around.

358010 composite frame shock parts
303240 ball universal 5.8mm hex

I've been doing mine like this. Pos. on left with the wire directly from battery to motor than tie the ESC wire to that.
This is an old practice pack and the wire is way to long, but it's the only picture I have at work.

Works the same way on a 12L3 or L4 chassis.

take care
john

yea thats what i was thinking if you did some type of captured end with a nut. would this hamper the way the shock is suspose to work. i was thinking of somthing like the associated tc shocks a bolt through the bottom a nut to hold it it place then a captured end on the shock amd a nut to hold it on


any ideas guys will this work


Rob

i think you may get some binding because the tc3 shock mount does not have enough angle of movement. and hte 12l shock has such a steep angle. Some of the guys run this put have to put a cone washer under the lower shock mount to raise it just enough where it does not bind.

I haven't played with the shock a lot personally, but the people I've talked to who have did not like with the shock layed down any flatter.
theisgroup is right, a captured end by itself doesn't offer much movement because the plastic hits, but if you put it on top of the cone it would. If your shock mounts on the antenna mount it would be easy to cut it down, add a cone and keep the same shock angle.

take care
john

What's the most effiicient wire length connecting the batteries? Btw, these batteries will be used on a 12L4 and AH12.

the most "effiicient" length would be the shortest possible. The longer the length of the wire is more loss in current.

I don't remember what the length was for the cross over wire, 2-1/2" is sticking in my head for some reason. The batteries were originally soldered for a 12l4. I think it puts the positive on the other side car in that configuration but it works fine. No idea on a Hara chassis.
I redid all my batteries this way so they would fit in the discharge tray. If you use a tray, make sure you assemble them so the positive is in the right place.

take care
john

Hi guys. Gas truck racer here getting into electrics for the winter. Got a 12L3 coming, and was wodering what is a good servo to run in it? I'm assuming smaller is better, but how small to go? Also wondering what is a good pinion/spur combo to run with either a monster stock pro, or p2k2 pro? They race with 4 cell 3300's for eight minute mains here.
Jeff

if your on a buget get the hitec hs 225mg its only about 35 dollars and its .14 at 4.8 volts if you want to go all out the jr z3550 works real good for mod its pretty small and good speed its coreless but its around 65 dollars

I see the hitec servo you said has metal gears and ball bearing. I take it that is a necessity in 1/12? Just curious.

you dont have to have metal gears its jsut nice knowing you dont have to worry about chipped gears the servo savers protect them pretty good the bearings is something to look for they help it to keep smooth all the time.