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Old 09-10-2014 | 05:52 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Lille-bror
And of course ALWAYS use the propeller cover :-)
Yes....until the break-in bench is returned to you with a broken shroud from the guy that borrowed it!

Tuning and adding fuel was a little nerve wracking......
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Old 09-10-2014 | 09:08 AM
  #32  
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Rocco that muffler is brilliant. We annoy the shit out of our neighbors at the hobby shop when we break in engines. Gonna try that next engine for sure, James
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Old 09-10-2014 | 12:19 PM
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tupper ware muffler is awesome idea
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Old 09-10-2014 | 07:46 PM
  #34  
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I could give a damn about my neighbors, just don't want the wife to nag me more than she does about the whole RC deal already.....haha
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Old 04-16-2015 | 06:24 PM
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Most guys using an electric drill or airplane starter?
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Old 04-16-2015 | 07:21 PM
  #36  
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I use airplane starter....
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Old 04-17-2015 | 03:02 PM
  #37  
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Airplane starter. My drill didn't spin it fast enough. Just make sure you spin in rev.
And my bench came back modded with an "I Can't Believe It's Not Butter" muffler/ oil catch (thanks Brent)
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Old 04-17-2015 | 03:50 PM
  #38  
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Hobbico "High Torque" airplane starter.
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Old 10-18-2015 | 05:01 PM
  #39  
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So did anyone come up with a good break-in method? If so lets hear it.
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Old 10-18-2015 | 10:32 PM
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Did you read any of the last 3 pages?
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Old 10-19-2015 | 06:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Gavel
Did you read any of the last 3 pages?
Duh yes, most of the posts are over a year old ......
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Old 10-20-2015 | 05:47 AM
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Engines havent changed enough in the last year to make a different process nessessary
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Old 10-20-2015 | 10:17 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by offroad dude
So did anyone come up with a good break-in method? If so lets hear it.
This is how I break in most engines on the bench.
http://www.murnanmodified.com/index....formation_id=7

For Break in using a propeller:

*** Even a very small difference in size, or pitch of the break in propeller makes a difference. The numbers, and temperatures are based on the standard Hudy break in propeller. For example, a propeller with more pitch, will cause less rpm, and more heat. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a larger prop to keep the rpm under control***

*** For breakin we use the following fuel blend. Nitro 10%, Castor Oil 14%, Synthetic Oil 2%***

***Always keep the cooling head mostly covered so the airflow does now cool the engine too much.***

1.) Warm the engine with a heat gun until it is (around 200F).

2.) Start the engine. Then establish a rich high idle ( around 9,000 r.p.m.) and let the engine run for 5 minutes. Then with the engine running at a very rich setting go to full throttle. Let the engine run at full throttle for 15 minutes at this very rich setting. Maximum R.P.M. should be around 16,000. Temperature should be around 200 F. Then let the engine gradually cool for 30 minutes.

3.) Slowly warm up the engine, and go to full throttle at a very rich setting. Then start to lean the main needle until the rpm increases, and the temperature stabalizes around 225F.. Run the engine like this for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Maximum rpm during this stage should be around 20,000.

4.) Slowly warm up the engine, and go to full throttle at a very rich setting. Then start to lean the main needle until rpm increases, and temperature stabalizes around 250F. Maximum rpm during this stage will be between 25,000 -30.000 rpm. Let the engine run like this for 20 minutes.


After this process has been completed on the break in bench, it is time to install the engine in the car. The engine will only need one tank moderately rich, and then you can start tuning for maximum power.
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Old 10-22-2015 | 06:53 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Grinder
This is how I break in most engines on the bench.
http://www.murnanmodified.com/index....formation_id=7

For Break in using a propeller:

*** Even a very small difference in size, or pitch of the break in propeller makes a difference. The numbers, and temperatures are based on the standard Hudy break in propeller. For example, a propeller with more pitch, will cause less rpm, and more heat. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a larger prop to keep the rpm under control***

*** For breakin we use the following fuel blend. Nitro 10%, Castor Oil 14%, Synthetic Oil 2%***

***Always keep the cooling head mostly covered so the airflow does now cool the engine too much.***

1.) Warm the engine with a heat gun until it is (around 200F).

2.) Start the engine. Then establish a rich high idle ( around 9,000 r.p.m.) and let the engine run for 5 minutes. Then with the engine running at a very rich setting go to full throttle. Let the engine run at full throttle for 15 minutes at this very rich setting. Maximum R.P.M. should be around 16,000. Temperature should be around 200 F. Then let the engine gradually cool for 30 minutes.

3.) Slowly warm up the engine, and go to full throttle at a very rich setting. Then start to lean the main needle until the rpm increases, and the temperature stabalizes around 225F.. Run the engine like this for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Maximum rpm during this stage should be around 20,000.

4.) Slowly warm up the engine, and go to full throttle at a very rich setting. Then start to lean the main needle until rpm increases, and temperature stabalizes around 250F. Maximum rpm during this stage will be between 25,000 -30.000 rpm. Let the engine run like this for 20 minutes.


After this process has been completed on the break in bench, it is time to install the engine in the car. The engine will only need one tank moderately rich, and then you can start tuning for maximum power.

Thanks you!
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Old 10-30-2015 | 04:54 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Grinder
This is how I break in most engines on the bench.
http://www.murnanmodified.com/index....formation_id=7

For Break in using a propeller:

*** Even a very small difference in size, or pitch of the break in propeller makes a difference. The numbers, and temperatures are based on the standard Hudy break in propeller. For example, a propeller with more pitch, will cause less rpm, and more heat. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a larger prop to keep the rpm under control***

*** For breakin we use the following fuel blend. Nitro 10%, Castor Oil 14%, Synthetic Oil 2%***

***Always keep the cooling head mostly covered so the airflow does now cool the engine too much.***

1.) Warm the engine with a heat gun until it is (around 200F).

2.) Start the engine. Then establish a rich high idle ( around 9,000 r.p.m.) and let the engine run for 5 minutes. Then with the engine running at a very rich setting go to full throttle. Let the engine run at full throttle for 15 minutes at this very rich setting. Maximum R.P.M. should be around 16,000. Temperature should be around 200 F. Then let the engine gradually cool for 30 minutes.

3.) Slowly warm up the engine, and go to full throttle at a very rich setting. Then start to lean the main needle until the rpm increases, and the temperature stabalizes around 225F.. Run the engine like this for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Maximum rpm during this stage should be around 20,000.

4.) Slowly warm up the engine, and go to full throttle at a very rich setting. Then start to lean the main needle until rpm increases, and temperature stabalizes around 250F. Maximum rpm during this stage will be between 25,000 -30.000 rpm. Let the engine run like this for 20 minutes.


After this process has been completed on the break in bench, it is time to install the engine in the car. The engine will only need one tank moderately rich, and then you can start tuning for maximum power.
Trash the rod first lol.
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