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Hudy Break In Bench

Old 04-12-2013, 09:56 PM
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Default Hudy Break In Bench

I have grown tired of the tedious method I have been using but I like the results it produces. I have been entertaining this method.
  • Who uses it
  • Whats your procedure
  • What are your thoughts/ results

Last edited by Frank L; 04-12-2013 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:49 PM
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I like using a break in bench, mine started out as a Hudy but I have made some changes. First of all there really is no room for an air cleaner, had to cut the original guard because breaking in an engine without an air cleaner is not really a good idea. With the prop there is alot of air moving so I made a flat piece to block some air after the original one guard broke. Other than that I do a similar method to what you would do if it was in the car. I put a heat cycle on the motor before firing it, 2 heat cycles the first tank then once each tank after that. The nice thing about the bench is it just lets you do other things while you are breaking in a motor. You still need to stay there and monitor temps, it can be difficult to keep enough heat in the engine.

Rex

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Old 04-13-2013, 07:25 AM
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I have one hudy coming and have two novas to run in and am keen to hear
How other people like using the bench, what onroad pipe suits best ????
Cheers
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:26 PM
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I keep one in the trailer...never knew when you are going to need to help someone break one in at the track after they blew one of theirs....I just have Lance at RcRenew pre run mine for me lol
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:42 PM
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Too loud for my neighbor hood and really annoying to use IMO. I prefer just running on the box/ground method. After all what else do you do with all the worn out tires? My suggestion is borrow one and try it before you buy it like I did... and gladly return it after your first few tanks lol.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:50 PM
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A couple of us chipped in for one a few months ago but none of us have used it yet. We bought a 50oz dubro tank so we can just keep it running with varied RPM and heat ranges without having to take 8 hours. I'm gonna christen it next week for the first time. I guess I won't really know if its good or not until I can test the longevity of the engine.
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:20 AM
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I use it (actually have two)


What you need:

1) Ear Plugs and Ear Muffs - Trust me, yes both.
2) Safety Glasses
3) Battery to run Comp. Engine Heater and Starter (I use a old Marine 12 volt car style battery)
4) A good solid saw horse to mount break in bench on.
5) Two C-Clamps to hold the bench on the saw horse. The clamps on the break-in-bench vibrate loose, so I put a couple extra clamps on it. Not fun when it comes loose with a running engine turning a prop.
6) A box fan or similar - does a couple things - use it while running the engine to blow the exhaust away and use it to cool the engine between runs.
7) A Heat gun - I like the variable temp/wattage type so I can regulate the temp better.
8) You will need to make yourself a wind shield to go between the prop and the engine. I cut up an old plastic ice cream bucket lid and covered it in tin foil so it doesn't melt.
9) you need to find a place to do the engine running that won't piss your entire neighborhood off. I go to my work and use the shop after hours.
10) You obviously need all you nitro stuff (Temp Gun, Ignitor, Fuel, Bottle, Tuning screw Driver, Etc.)
11) Stopwatch or timer
12) Chair to sit on
13) Notebook and pencil to record what you have done

My Procedure:

1) Get everything setup and within arms reach, Engine on Stand, Stand on saw horse, Engine heater and Starter Hooked up, Heat gun plugged in, Temp gun, ignitor, screw driver, stop watch, your homemade wind/Heat shield, all within reach.

2) Preheat engine with comp heater to as hot as it will get the engine - mine usually gets around 150 degrees.

3) Preheat the engine using the heat gun to at least 200 Degrees. I leave the comp heater on and plugged in and heat the side and rear of the engine with the heat gun until temp is reached. Make sure your homemade heat shield is in use otherwise the heat gun will melt the Prop and guard on your hudy bench. Also, be careful not to melt the fuel tank.

4) Start the engine, monitoring the temp constantly making sure the temp is above 200. If not use the heat gun to keep it above 200. The engine heater is still on the engine and plugged in. You will need to use the heater and heat gun to keep the temp in the engine. Also - use your homemade heat/wind shield to keep the prop air off the engine.

5) Use the starter to kill the engine at the prop cone.

6) Cool the engine to room temp using the fan. Once cooled do it all again.


My Break-in method is:

I run the engine above 200 and then cool to room temp following the below procedure. I will lien it out a small amount every run, until the temp holds itself above 200 with the engine heater on - the amount you need to lien is going to be different for every engine. I also add some byron's lube booster to the fuel (Caster Oil).

1st run - 3 min idling
2nd run - 3 min idling
3rd - 3 min idling to 1/4 throttle
4th - 3 min idling to 1/4 throttle
5th - 3 min idling to 1/4 throttle
6th - 4 min idling to 1/2 throttle
7 - 4 min idling to 1/2 throttle
8 - 4 min idling to 1/2 throttle
9 - 5 min idling to 3/4 throttle
10 - 5 min idling to 3/4 throttle
11 - 5 min idling to Full throttle
12 - 5 min idling to Full throttle

Put in car and run 2 or 3 tanks on the track with the engine just slightly fat. After that Race tune.
-----

This is what I do - It may not be the right way - but its my way. I have two break-in-benches so I generally break two engine in at the same time. One is running the other is cooling. And to be honest breaking in engines sucks, Its the worst part of this hobby - This year I will likely send my new engines to RCRenew and pay to have them broken in.
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:30 AM
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some good stuff thanks for taking the time to post your info and your correct running in an engine is not alot of fun and its time consuming but I guess if you can save on tires, and the wear and tear on your car then I guess a bench is the way to go
cheers!
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:04 AM
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I've just got myself a lapping tool. I have tried the brakeinbench twice an screewed two rod so i gave up ..
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by am View Post
I've just got myself a lapping tool. I have tried the brakeinbench twice an screewed two rod so i gave up ..
I have a break in bench and it needed a lot of mods and it is a pain to do it all correctly. I looked on wiki and read what a lapping tool is but that was very generic. Is there a preferred tool for this application and, is it easy to do?
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:57 AM
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Just got it yesterday... A lapping tool is a tool that lets you very slovly grind down the piston. I have tested it today and started the engine. I think i need to use in on a few engines before i get a hang of it.

There is a few things to think of when using lapping method also. All materials will expand when you start engine first time. Depending on piston material, sleeve material and so on. I do not think it is easyer to learn lapping than the bench, but i really hated the bench brakein.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by am View Post
Just got it yesterday... A lapping tool is a tool that lets you very slovly grind down the piston. I have tested it today and started the engine. I think i need to use in on a few engines before i get a hang of it.

There is a few things to think of when using lapping method also. All materials will expand when you start engine first time. Depending on piston material, sleeve material and so on. I do not think it is easyer to learn lapping than the bench, but i really hated the bench brakein.
Thanks for the info. I think I will either buy less expensive motors and go old school (just run it) or if i go high end, pay RCrenew to do it.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by am View Post
Just got it yesterday... A lapping tool is a tool that lets you very slovly grind down the piston. I have tested it today and started the engine. I think i need to use in on a few engines before i get a hang of it.

There is a few things to think of when using lapping method also. All materials will expand when you start engine first time. Depending on piston material, sleeve material and so on. I do not think it is easyer to learn lapping than the bench, but i really hated the bench brakein.
Lapping is a art form LOL ! definitely takes a while to get perfect...... May I ask where you bought your tool from ?
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:40 AM
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I think running is is less criticl than many people says. For the last two years a hav eran throug abaout two tanks on the box, half tank each time then let it cool down for heatcycling. ( i think this is important ). Then i have just threw it on the track driving it noce for 5-6 tanks, then tuned it to almoast racetune. At the races, even when the engines is almoast new, i lean it to run just as fast as the other engines of the same type. I keep the pinch for 4-5 liters, then it loosesns up and temps drop a bit. I get around 14-16 liters out of my engines before i use them as practice engines until they starting actig up. or, i bust out my dremel and go wackers to try and learn something usefull.

People says, ohhh, my engines loosens up right before the 2 gallon mark, and i think, What is the point? Running a half decesnt engine for that long time, what is the point?

Just my two cents on the brakein thingy :-)
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Maximo View Post
Lapping is a art form LOL ! definitely takes a while to get perfect...... May I ask where you bought your tool from ?
Hi :-)

A friend of mine made too me. I have used ALOT of time trying to find out were to buy one. No luck..

Finding the best material for the tool was not so easy for me here in Norway, but my friend found it for me.

Do you use lapping on your engines or do you just do running in noramlly?

Anders
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