I run the Tamiya direct horn (same as the one cplus linked) outdoors. Indoors I run the XRay saver. All it takes is one corner to catch your wheel or axle stub and you can kiss the gears in your servo goodbye. I messed up my Sanwa SDX801 this way. The Tamiya saver isn't bad but I would buy the aluminum horn to go with it.

I purchased the Tamiya direct servo horn. Looks also much better than the cheap looking standard plastic servo saver/horn.

Another question concerning battery stops.

The car comes with a front, rear and a sidestopper on the servo mount to support the front of the battery. But I would like one to the rear also to prevent the battery touching the belt.

I have read some recommending a 630 bearing, but I cannot find any pictures and can't see where to mount such to act as a battery stopper. Can anyone please explain where to fit the bearing?

Or are there other solutions?

Easiest solution is to either...

- mount the whole belt tensioner in the spare hole in front of the motor mount
- mount just the bearings and hardware from the tensioner in the front of the motor mount in the spare thread.

Thanks for the suggestion

I don't use the front and rear battery stoppers but for the rear stopper I use one of the front/rear stoppers supported up by a stand off. Tamiya also sells a 20g center weight that bolts down in the center of the chassis that also acts as a stopper. Or you can just stick your own weight in the center and it'll act as a stopper as well.

dupe

You could also just shave the top of the stopper off (so that the belt won't rub, but I'm too lazy to do that) and bolt it straight to the chassis instead of putting it on a standoff. It's just a setup I've been using on all my cars for the past several years. So I just unbolt it from one car and put it on the next since most have a center hole in the chassis somewhere and belt spacing is pretty much the same from car to car.

The Tamiya saver holds trim after you add a fourth spring...

If you have to buy two tamiya servo savers plus a aluminum horn, you can get an X-Ray one for less and just be done. If your a TCS racer, it's legal but unseemly. Good idea on carpet.

Would an aluminium lower chassis plate from Samix improve the performance of the TRF418?
The car already runs great, but if it does improve the performance i would think about buying one.

My rear lipo stopper / tensioner is a couple of 630 bearings and shims (built same as top deck stopper.

See below.

Ps - my spur gear is seriously dirty!

No wonder the factory ones are black, hides the dirt

What Double Cardan CVD's are you guys running on your trf418? Stock? Aftermarket?

I have a tb04 pro v2 with the trf418 suspension so I figure here is the place to ask since they use the same cvd (tb04 is 44mm if it matters)

Nothing beats stock/kit.

Interesting to here. It just made me wonder why there are lots of aftermarket cvd's if the stocks were so good. My only guess is that the trf417 didn't have them so many aftermarket parts were made

Stock ones here too.

Some aftermarket report to be lighter/stronger/cheaper/more durable.

The stock ones work. Easy to rebuild. Haven't broken any yet.