Yea i think i got it now. I got the horn as close as i could to center, then used sub-trim to center it by eye. Lastly adjusted the EPA left and right, then just use dual rate to turn the steering down if needed.

Thanks guys!

Not sure if I'm reading that right or not but the horn shouldn't be straight up and down for the steering to be centered.
No matter what steering setup you are using, the rod or link should have a 90° angle to be centered and with the horn straight up and down (like most cars want)... it's not at a 90° angle.
Get it as close as you can to 90° and use sub trim to get it to a 90.
Hope that makes sense.

As per the manual. Proper horn installation is one tooth off of centre. I just can't remember which direction was reccomended. But to the original poster. Double check your horn install to the manual. Also double check the rod length comming off the servo horn. There will be a difference in epa from one side to the other. I believe mine is less then 10 points though.

Most people found it needed to be one more tooth than the manual said. There's a pic on the last page with the direction but it's inboard.
After looking at my radio I am 61/66 epa and left 24 sub trim... not that anyone should have the same numbers but that's the difference in my radio.

Ok i have searched and searched and can find no answer to this. Inrecently picked up a b44 and have been running it at my local track(rc excitement). Love the buggy, but no matter what i do it bottoms out harddd. I have rebuilt the shocks gone up in fluid wieght(started at 30wt all aroud with 1.6 holes front and 1.7's rear) and down on piston holes with barely any difference. I am at 45wt front and rear with flat 1.5 hole pistons. 2 limiters in the rear one in the front. I've talked to the local guys and everyone runs 30-35wt and considers that "stiffer". I have watched endless videos on how to build the shocks to make sure it wasnt me but i am honestly at a loss for what is going on. I'm hoping someone knows what is going on and can help me out.

What springs are you running? What shock positions? Are the 1.5 pistons 3 hole or 2 hole?


I am running the maifield setup from warehouse 3. But I am using 40wt frt. The rest is the same as his setup. I rarely if ever bottom out.

Biggest thing is making sure you dont land flat. You need to downside jumps.

Does anyone know if the reedy 4800 batteries been enough for a 10 min main? I run a reedy 7.5 with 20/81 gearing.

Plenty with extra run time to spare

Ride height?

front

1.5 x 2 flat piston
Blue Ae spring
35w oil
21mm ride height

Rear

1.6 x 2 flat piston
Green Ae spring
30w oil
20mm ride height

Get rid of the 45w oil & ignore who ever recommended.

You cannot expect a 4w to land as good as a buggy.
Practice landing on the down hill of the jumps.

For those looking to upgrade your B44.2

Limited production run

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...052?search=b44

I have this kit and is the single best improvement that can be made on this car. Jumps better and is more responsive and agile. awesome!

Hoping someone could help a noob out - At my local track they suggest M4 holeshot rears, and m3 holeshot fronts for 4wd buggy. I have the B44.2. I see a lot of different widths and I'm confused on what to buy.

I would ideally like to buy premounted tires on yellow wheels. AKA makes premounted 2.2" "rear" for B44, B44.1, and B44.2. 2nd question is that my B44.2 does not have the rear hexes, maybe the previous owner stopped using them. I assume I will need a pair of 12mm hexes? The current wheels use the pin.
Do I also use the 2.2" "rear" premounted tire for the front? Is the offset different? Are the tires themselves different? The previous owner included a few sets of fronts but they are skinnier than the rear.

44.2 uses 12mm hex on rear. you can buy the hex and use the hex wheels. associated 9925 is the part number

on front the .2 uses i think a 9.5 hex. you will have to convert it to 12mm hex front or use the .2 wheels on front.

skinner tires go on front.

I'm also new to 1/10's, I bought a B44.2 kit at the start of the year and built it to kit specs but never used it due to no 1/10 racing at my track. I also bought another used roller with an avid chassis which i have started to run at my track. I think it has been converted from a B44.1 to a .2 with the avid chassis and carbon fiber rear hub blocks, and the shock towers, top plates etc are slightly different to my original B44.2 kit.
From the pics below can any of you guys tell me exactly what i got.

Also another problem i have is the rear dog bones keep popping out when landing big jumps.

Any help would be appreciated