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Old 07-24-2014 | 10:01 PM
  #8041  
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Dup
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Old 07-24-2014 | 10:03 PM
  #8042  
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mash


I don't used a temp gun on my ride.

Yes , a tooth higher or lower can make a big difference.

.3mm for the slipper sounds about right, very close.

Recommend no boost ..
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Old 07-24-2014 | 10:19 PM
  #8043  
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Originally Posted by GizmoTLR
I ran 81/20 with temps around 130 just fine. Perhaps your gear mesh could be a little too tight? Or possibly too much drag brake? I dont think a slipper setting could cause over heating but just in case heres how i set my slipper...

Put a hex wrench in the adjustment hole, pick up the rear end so tires are off the ground, apply small pressure to the front and roll the car until the front tires just start to skip. And if its still a little too loose for the track condition then i do the same but with the rear end on the ground and front raised up. I also run no drag brake.
uhh my gear mesh is perfect. No drag brake, my braking is set at 90% tho when I brake.

I tried doing that method to set the slipper but failed cuz my slipper is fairly new so the spring is very stiff, I had to set it at 3mm and use a clamp to put my slipper together.
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Old 07-24-2014 | 11:02 PM
  #8044  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
mash


I don't used a temp gun on my ride.

Yes , a tooth higher or lower can make a big difference.

.3mm for the slipper sounds about right, very close.

Recommend no boost ..
Hmm okay. I was debating to go get the 78 slipper and run a smaller pinion?

Which route do you think I should go?
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Old 07-25-2014 | 06:45 AM
  #8045  
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Mash

Think 20 or 21 / 81 spur will perform fine.
Recommend either...

No to the 78 spur...
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Old 07-25-2014 | 12:28 PM
  #8046  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Decided not going with the .3.

Just using the center diff and calling it all good.

Not interested buying a .3 and then a another new car soon right after .
Right after ? Cherry you hearing things up there of the next gen platform ?

This .3 is what Tunnerman was working on while Kody & Bob finished up the B5. I assume those 2 engineers will be starting to look at the next gen 4wd buggy platform now, which probably wouldn't turn up for a couple years.
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Old 07-25-2014 | 01:25 PM
  #8047  
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Rigor

already have a b44 , will use any of the parts I may need.


Not like my B44.1 is not competitive .
Its driving great & never better..
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Old 07-27-2014 | 01:43 PM
  #8048  
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Okay im having some issues with my 44.2 and im stumped. Just got this guy off a tech member with the JC sterring rack and RPMs front arms. Issue im having is the car will turn much farther left then right, and i mean ALOT. To get it drivable last night i had to set me EPA at 56 left and 95 right!

So far we have tried adjusting the steering linkage to manual spec, then longer and longer with no change. Also re centered the servo horn to several different points with no change. I have hit the steering links with a caliber several times and there both exactly the same length, using the same holes on the rack.


At this point all i can think is its the servo but it looks like the horn is moving equal distance left and right. Any suggestions?????
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Old 07-27-2014 | 01:58 PM
  #8049  
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The servo horn should be clocked over a bit with the radio at center.
Then set your left & right steering end points on the radio to where tye servo barely humms at full lock each side. You can visually see when the wheel stops turning as you add more end point to that side. Thats where the servo really starts humming.

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Old 07-27-2014 | 02:13 PM
  #8050  
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On my radio to go to full lock left and right the epa on the radio is different for each side.
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Old 07-27-2014 | 02:17 PM
  #8051  
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anybody running 17.5 with boost?
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Old 07-27-2014 | 02:24 PM
  #8052  
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Originally Posted by fq06
The servo horn should be clocked over a bit with the radio at center.
Then set your left & right steering end points on the radio to where tye servo barely humms at full lock each side. You can visually see when the wheel stops turning as you add more end point to that side. Thats where the servo really starts humming.

And thats where we ended up, made the link as short as possible with horn a bit inward from center and set the end points so the servo wasnt over extending. Just 56 left and 92 right is weird, just redid it with a 62 left and 85 right. Still way off

I just dont understand why when i do this my end points so so far off from each other. Is this common with the 44?
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Old 07-27-2014 | 02:48 PM
  #8053  
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Originally Posted by JoshC90
And thats where we ended up, made the link as short as possible with horn a bit inward from center and set the end points so the servo wasnt over extending. Just 56 left and 92 right is weird, just redid it with a 62 left and 85 right. Still way off

I just dont understand why when i do this my end points so so far off from each other. Is this common with the 44?


Check to make sure you don't have two left or right Caster blocks installed, that could bind things up a bit.
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Old 07-27-2014 | 04:00 PM
  #8054  
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Originally Posted by tomdav
Check to make sure you don't have two left or right Caster blocks installed, that could bind things up a bit.
just checked the blocks and knuckles, there both proper.
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Old 07-27-2014 | 07:22 PM
  #8055  
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Originally Posted by JoshC90
And thats where we ended up, made the link as short as possible with horn a bit inward from center and set the end points so the servo wasnt over extending. Just 56 left and 92 right is weird, just redid it with a 62 left and 85 right. Still way off

I just don't understand why when i do this my end points so so far off from each other. Is this common with the 44?
That is common. Forgot to mention... you set trim (center) with sub trim right? Not trim?

From there I think mine is about 30 or so different. It's common with this buggy to not have close end points. With this to have 90° angles on all the link points the horn and end points are a little off.
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