Be careful what you wish for, not intending to bash a great ride but the TLR is a tank.
Weigh one...

I ran the 22-4 at Cactus this year in 13.5, and I was easily 100g over the 44.2's in front of me. Switched to the shorty for Q4 on Saturday and qualified 3rd in the B-Main. Was definitely faster but was still ~1850g with body. I believe I was the only Losi in 13.5 as well. Can't really remember seeing any other car other than a B44.

60k has been really good for most indoor clay tracks. A good balance of acceleration while having really good rear-end power delivery.

For a looser outdoor track you can go a bit thinner up to 40k lighter, you could maybe go even more just depends on the tires, dust, etc. on how much it unloads to the front. The center diff oil will also depend a little on the motor you are using to help get the best power delivery and grip.

What will be the box setup for fr/rr oils? 7k all around?

.

Pretty much for now until you guys make the car right.

In testing the B44.3 with a shorty pack weight in at 1712 with the shorty pack, that's body on, transponder. Surprisingly the center gear diff was almost the exact weight of the slipper with the diff being just a little bit lighter.

The kit setup will be 5k F/R with 60K in the center, however, it having a range would be good to have to dial you in for your track (shouldn't need anything thicker than 10k though for F/R) Our diffs seem to be just a little different than durango diffs that were inititally tested. Although the new diffs have been very smooth with great shimming adjustability.

Suggested gearing with 13.5? Medium sized clay track? I'm going to be helping a friend run the 44.2 and I'm going to pick up the TM4 and both of us run 13.5 at SCVRC, which is a medium sized clay track.

If possible would keep the standard spur on the 44.2, but if that's a bad spur for 13.5, happy to switch it out.

But it does sound like the front and rear gear diffs will fit in the B44.2, no?

For a low cost shorty conversion, did anyonetry to just flip the motor with mounts with stock carbon B44.2 chassis, will the top decks still fit...?

I have done this and it is not an easy thing. The original motor mount requires you to cut a new slot in the chassis which takes some effort. Also it requires that you mill the area for the motor to sit lower than the chassis surface. The center shafts fit fine.

1) Major chassis modifications or new chassis
2) Battery mount modification is major
3) New top plates are required even for this modification

In the end the Schelle chassis with their kit, once available, will be a great solution for those that don't want to jump to the B44.3 kit. Add the new gear diffs and you are almost there. This is my plan right now if I don't want to just take the plunge and jump to the new kit.

I am very happy with the B44.3 details. I left my B44.2 behind wanting to go to an aluminum chassis and gear diffs front and rear. The cost to do that with aftermarket is not cheap even with the new parts from AE. I changed to the Caster Racing S10B V3.5 which is very good and almost identical to the B44.1 but has metal gear diffs and an aluminum chassis. I quickly found that gear diffs made a huge difference as did the added lower weight of the aluminum chassis.

So once the new parts are available I could get the new gear diffs and one of the aftermarket chassis and get half the way to were I am today with the Caster Racing chassis. To reduce weight and get the center diff I would need the new AE Chassis, top plates, motor mount, center bulkhead, and the gear diff itself. Not sure of the center CVDs are a new length so that will have to be investigated.

Per AE on the last page you would need cva's...

" If you wanted to upgrade your B44.2 to accept a center diff, be prepared to get a chassis, motor mount, center bulkhead and center CVA's, top decks, along with the Center gear diff. "

I agree though, a nice upgrade to the .2 would be to throw the f & r diffs in and an alu chassis.

OK thanks, agree on your conclusion, Schelle is for me it seems!