I have finally go the car finished with all the electrics now in.
I decided to start at the 4x1.3 pistons all round with 35WT front and 30Wt rear so I'll see how that feels.

What ride height are people running on these?
I was aiming for 30mm front and 29mm rear but I cannot get the nose down enough without the front springs being able to pop of the bottom collar when no load is on them (eg jumping).

I'm doing 30 30 ride height but mines keeps nose diving can't get it to jump straight I hope you don't have that issue I know of this one other guy who haves same issue but I said he just adjusted his driving style a little by holding the throttle on the jumps

that's interesting as I felt with everything in it, it was weighted well to the rear (I have done the split weight in it yet) but driving is another thing so I'll see how it feels once I finally race it. (just need the rain to go away)

I set my battery in a more rearward position so that maybe also why I can't get the front down as it needs a little weight on the front

My ride height is 30 front and 28 rear. My battery is about 5 to 10mm more forward than yours and no problem on jumps etc. i had loose front springs also to begin with but not anymore. Seems that after about an hour on the track it has settled in and doesn't happen anymore.

Cheers Tom I think I might actually move it forward to the next hole and see what it does and that can be my starting point.

Maybe look at your drag brake setting on the speedy. The more drag brake, the more the truck will want to nose down over jumps if you release the throttle. Obviously the higher the drag brake the more tendancy the truck will want to nose dive just as if you push the brake to nose down mid air. As for not jumping straight, maybe a shock has some rebound issues that causes uneven dampening off a jump. Try bleeding all shocks again and check rebounds left to right shocks, should be as close to same as possible.

I was thinking of trimming those bulkhead tabs so I could run a long pack all the back under the bulkhead. I'm always looking for more traction. After reading some posts, I'm wondering if that will cause it to jump nose up.

Anyone doing this?

You might find it could push if you move the weight too far back.
Mind you I haven't had a chance to drive mine so it's only a guess it may well work.

Josh I run Esc all the way under the rear shock tower. I trim those tabs and run the long pack flush against the esc and use a battery holder in the front. Works really well for me

"Ducky"

Josh,

just mount the esc under the shock tower and the battery right in front of it..

it should work just fine.

btw, which servo horn is everyone using? the servo saver that comes with kit looks cheap.

Is the chassis/wheelbase on the sc6 longer than the scr sp?

Yeah, that sucked lol. It's racing, I don't get upset when something like that happens, since it was definitely not a plow like I got from someone else that race.

On a different note, I'm heavily debating ordering this truck, like a click away lol. I know Kraig's truck looked great a the Showdown, anyone else out there doing well in blinky?

This truck is just awesome. I have mine setup like the setup that was posted at initial release with the exception of the shock package. I am running gold rear springs with 27.5 wt oil and Kyosho 4x1.3 pistons in the rear and Orange springs in the front 35 wt oil and 4x1.3 pistons in the front. I am also running the new Orion 100c shorty all of the way back and this truck is "Dialed". I love it in Blinky Stock class. can't wait for the winter to run mod SC in mid motor config.

Thx Ducky,

I'm going to wire it up tonight. I trimmed those tabs, but w the battery all the way back and ESC in front of it you need SUPER long wires to make it work.

I'll take yours and Dom's advice and get the ESC as far under the tower as i can.

thanks guys

I'm using the aluminum one from TLR. just need a little shorter ball stud (and some loc-tite) to make the clearance.