Help: Testing Equipment
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 4
Hi there RCtech forums, this is my first post and I was wondering if anyone here could tell me what the cheapest and most time/cost effective method for testing various ESC's is, please?
Hopefully this explanation will help - I have a wide array of various Castle brand ESC's such as sidewinders, hydras, mambas, etc. They're all used but I want to test which ones still function properly.
I tried selling them without testing at first when I assumed that if they looked fine they must run fine. I was wrong. I am a newb to everything RC related so please be very specific and gentle with me.
So basically I have various ESC's.
What parts would I need to test them and how would I actually connect and then test the module?
Hopefully this explanation will help - I have a wide array of various Castle brand ESC's such as sidewinders, hydras, mambas, etc. They're all used but I want to test which ones still function properly.
I tried selling them without testing at first when I assumed that if they looked fine they must run fine. I was wrong. I am a newb to everything RC related so please be very specific and gentle with me.
So basically I have various ESC's.
What parts would I need to test them and how would I actually connect and then test the module?
#3
+1
If you have a program card or USB adapter you can attach it and feed it the latest firmware, that can get you about 90% sure it will be fine when you re-sell it. But the only way to tell is to put it and do a lap or two, or at least bench test it with a motor that is in spec for the model.
To test you need:
1 - receiver / radio
2 - compatible motor, something like a 17.5 brushless motor will test any sensored motor without drawing more than the ESC can handle. Sensorless as well but may cog.
3 - of course a charged battery
4 - servo - optional to bench test the ESC, but will in some cases expose a weak BEC issue.
This will also mean a lot of soldering practice as well.
If you have a program card or USB adapter you can attach it and feed it the latest firmware, that can get you about 90% sure it will be fine when you re-sell it. But the only way to tell is to put it and do a lap or two, or at least bench test it with a motor that is in spec for the model.
To test you need:
1 - receiver / radio
2 - compatible motor, something like a 17.5 brushless motor will test any sensored motor without drawing more than the ESC can handle. Sensorless as well but may cog.
3 - of course a charged battery
4 - servo - optional to bench test the ESC, but will in some cases expose a weak BEC issue.
This will also mean a lot of soldering practice as well.
#5
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 4
+1
If you have a program card or USB adapter you can attach it and feed it the latest firmware, that can get you about 90% sure it will be fine when you re-sell it. But the only way to tell is to put it and do a lap or two, or at least bench test it with a motor that is in spec for the model.
To test you need:
1 - receiver / radio
2 - compatible motor, something like a 17.5 brushless motor will test any sensored motor without drawing more than the ESC can handle. Sensorless as well but may cog.
3 - of course a charged battery
4 - servo - optional to bench test the ESC, but will in some cases expose a weak BEC issue.
This will also mean a lot of soldering practice as well.
If you have a program card or USB adapter you can attach it and feed it the latest firmware, that can get you about 90% sure it will be fine when you re-sell it. But the only way to tell is to put it and do a lap or two, or at least bench test it with a motor that is in spec for the model.
To test you need:
1 - receiver / radio
2 - compatible motor, something like a 17.5 brushless motor will test any sensored motor without drawing more than the ESC can handle. Sensorless as well but may cog.
3 - of course a charged battery
4 - servo - optional to bench test the ESC, but will in some cases expose a weak BEC issue.
This will also mean a lot of soldering practice as well.
So these program cards work for all ESC's? Is there a specific one I need or will any of those cards work? Also, if any card works which card would you recommend? Thanks!
Oh, and as for the other option, doing a lap or two. What would be the cheapest most efficient RC car (which I assume comes with all the separate parts you listed?) I could buy to get the job done? When I say cheap and efficient I mean cheap but not so cheap that it breaks in 30 minutes.
Again, I really appreciate the help!
#6
Clips are ok. They do not have to be run on a track to see if they work. You do not need a car to test them. Each brand of esc will need a seperate "box" which would cost more than some esc's are worth. If you don't have any interest in running rc cars then all your time and money are being wasted. You won't be able to resell them until you can gaurantee they work, are you willing to do that? buying a car and testing them is a dead end.
#7
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 4
Clips are ok. They do not have to be run on a track to see if they work. You do not need a car to test them. Each brand of esc will need a seperate "box" which would cost more than some esc's are worth. If you don't have any interest in running rc cars then all your time and money are being wasted. You won't be able to resell them until you can gaurantee they work, are you willing to do that? buying a car and testing them is a dead end.
What do you mean by "box"? Assortment of gear?
#8
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
He appears to know little to nothing about R/C yet has all these esc's and motors he want's to test.

There's nothing wrong with being new but I smell a rat.
#9
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 4
I need to find a way to test them so he can sell them. I figured the guys here on forums like these gotta know the best, cheapest, quickest way to do that.
On the other forum I'm posting the only guy replying is telling me that I should buy a Traxxas Bandit and use that as a test machine.
He also said I might need different batteries if I have lots of different ESC's.
Is all that legit or can it be done for cheaper than the likely $200 the Bandit would cost?




