He used every available m05 hop up!!! lol. (okay not the rear shock tower or rear weight that holds the rear hinge pins)

Thanks for the pics Eric. car looks good. I got my 'hop ups' in the mail today and will finish building mine tonight

I forgot I had this body tucked away in a box

Did some m05v2 testing today. Extremely happy with it

Love how it handles. I used a shorty pack on it.

I ran tape across the top of the battery, then slid it into the chassis, then under the bottom of the chassis. Then did 2/3 width tape on the right hand side and 1/3 width on the left hand side. But I like how Eric put the bullets on the right side. I'll have to try that. I can cut a little hole for the balance port in my transverse tape.

(I leave my battery in the car while charging)

hmm, sure that the lipo will stay in place, if only fixed with one tape on the right side? wouldn't it move a little during racing?
after building mine, i will see

Work bench went boom! Please note the 3lb sledge hammer in the upper left. It's for when the car makes me angry.

That works for me!

Okay question
At the recent tcs down in Middle River my lead driver who is running a Thunderpower red 21.5 was good enough to make the b main, his lap times were'nt that far off the a drivers. I'm running a novak and seemed way off the mark. Found that some of the a main drivers were running the Reedy Sonic Mach 2

Any opinions on the Reedy, good or bad?

Mike

Speed has never been an issue with any vehicle I've raced with a Reedy motor installed. They are very nice pieces.

It's not whether the Novak or Reedy are good motors, which they are, but how the rules are written. This is just my opinion, but neither motor, under the present set of rules, is competitive. This could all change if they start to make a high rpm rotor and/or change their zero point.

Your Thunderpower with the right rotor is competitive. There are several others that are very good also, but for Mini, the Novak and Reedy Mach 2 are not among them.

Drove my M-06 today and it was great fun!

Lots of good advice, thanks guys. From what you are describing I would have to agree my car is not balanced, I have too much front traction. I will try many of the things you suggested and I have just a few more questions on your suggestions.
I tend to drive aggressive, I try to not use breaks, but roll through the turn. When I enter a high speed turn the front grips well, and that is when the rear "snaps" out. During the exit I believe I am getting excessive wheel spin, that is where I loose my time.
Is there a difference between the 2 o rings in the shocks and the foam puck included in the kit?
How far do you thread the lower eyelet on before installing the cap? Wouldn't how far the piston travels up make a difference in shock performance?
Grandpa, wouldn't it be better to remove my high speed servo and install a slower one than slowing down the speed with the radio?
What speed servo do you suggest?
I have no experience with transmitter adjustments. What does each peramater change and how does it affect the performance of the car? Of course I know the basics, but not the more advanced settings.
Do you think the soon to be released super hard foams would be a good insert to use? I was considering adding a couple sets to my ver 2 order.
What is the best wheelbase to use, short, medium or long? The short seemed way too twitchy to me.
Please post a pic or two of your glued s grips. I have tried them on more than one occasion and didn't feel right. That may be because poor chassis balance.

Sorry if this is off topic a little.
I posted a separate thread and no one responded.
I am tired of carrying 4 or 5 different boxes to the track so I am looking into a dedicated pit bag.
What doe you use and what would you suggest?
I have been looking at the pro line and the proteck hauler bags.

Also, do any of you know where I could find one of the tamiya med, 3 box bags stateside or if you know anyone with a clean one they would like to sell?

Thanks

I've got the Pro-Line. It's a good size for a couple of minis, or a mini and a TC. The drawers sag a little, but overall the quality is decent. The only real downside to this bag is the tool tray. It's next to useless. Their customer service is absolutely top notch if you have any issues.

Caught a "bug" this week, so it's just been TV and the computer as far as any activity. Even then the "cold" meds make me float a little, but we'll give your questions a try.

First, you've got it. The car has to be balanced and the stuff I suggested in my last post was to lose a little front end grip or slow dow the action. The rear end stuff was to give more grip or speed up the rear setting. Trick is to get the stuff ot work together. Keep in mind that sometimes when you want one end of the car to do something, sometimes the right adjustment is on the other end.

I won't go into driving techniques cause it's outside my area of expertise. But, if you and your car are doing what you describe, you're rolling thru the corner after the car scrubbed off a lot of speed. You're losing all your time in the corner, not on acceleration out of the corner. The faster you get through the corner, the less wheel spin you'll have exiting the corner. If someone is pulling you out of a corner, it's usually cause he went thru the corner faster.

Yes. In a previous post, I explained what happens as the shock shaft moves up into the shock body. With just the bladder, it will deform easily so the shock won't get stiffer very much or very quickly. With the sponge the shock will react quicker and become stiffer. Since the tho O-rings are stiffer than the sponge, you can guess what happens.

You thread the ball ends till they just bottom. If you over tighten, the rod will distort the hole and the shock won't work smoothly. It's best to under tighten than over. Just do them all the same. How far the shock shaft goes up into the shock body depends on how much the suspension is compressed. No simple answer to your question.

Servo speed. I use the best, highest speed servo I can afford. I can slow the servo speed down in my TX, but you can't speed it up. That's in the servo. I've used KO radios now for a long time. Started with a Helios, then a Euros to my new EX-1 version 3. Still learning my way around the Ex-1, but can slow the first half of the steering curve down and leave the second part of it alone. It lets me slow down the rate of return. Some of the stuff I use routinely and some I have no idea what it does. Just try stuff out. One of the best Mini guys I know uses just the basics. Another recent TCS Nats Champ, uses radio adjustments a lot. He's the one that got me to start taking advantage of what the radio can do.

Glueing tires is a individual track thing. You're pretty much on your own here. Even at the Tamiya track, which is my home track, no one does it the same. A lot depends on your set up etc. I'm doing it differently than I was a month or two ago.

I've posted a lot of this before, but some of it's been awhile. Not much new in Mini any more. That probably explains the V2 hysteria.

anyone notice on the V2 manual that the chassis/sus arm parts tree and motor mount don't have part numbers?

Also got some info from a vendor in Japan that the first lot of the kits are completely wiped out. A second lot is coming later in July, but Tamiya will be raising the base price another $20 or so. Hope it's not true