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Old 06-22-2014, 08:16 PM
  #21286  
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I was looking to get this class started at our local track and wonder what rules you all use?

I looked through a lot of pages but roughly 1500 pages makes the search tough.


Here is our local track in Chesapeake VA (Debbie RC World)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbk9T-xplQs
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by EastCoasterVa View Post
I was looking to get this class started at our local track and wonder what rules you all use?

I looked through a lot of pages but roughly 1500 pages makes the search tough.


Here is our local track in Chesapeake VA (Debbie RC World)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbk9T-xplQs
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
Nice track
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:20 PM
  #21288  
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Give these a whirl. Substitute whatever motor/ESC combo you want and you're gold. http://karz.ca/karzcalgary/Classes_and_Rules.html

The advantage is affordability. Opening up to aftermarket parts can provide cheaper alternatives, though it must be said, most will eventually end up 95% Tamiya, except for the diff .
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:24 PM
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Here on our small to medium tracks the Reedy Mach2 is widely used because it seems to have good torque and short RPM. I find that big tracks tend to like the Thunder Power and RPM Killshots. I haven't had the chance to try the R1 yet.

Last edited by Markus; 06-23-2014 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:44 PM
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Here in australia its been pretty much accepted nation wide that we use hobbywing 25 or 35Amp ESC and Hobbywing 13T/3000kv motor (or identical rebrand)
Fast enough to keep the experienced entertained, slow enough for beginners, and most importantly, cheap.

Nobody seems to complain
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:09 PM
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Man that is a nice track. Lucky god.

I use a Killshot RPM and am over all pretty happy. Haven't run a R1 but have run against most other options out there and few could keep up with me (not trying to be conceited). The Reedy Mach 2 was the closest to keeping up and actually kept me on my toes. But if I stayed on my game I could get away or at least stay up front. Mind you I still have yet to run at TCS :-( . My experiences are here at the local track.

Jason
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
I'm surprised MD bothered, its not like 4WD Mini is a 'hot class'
Still, a new Mini is a new mini...
What piqued my interest is it can be run as RWD or FWD or 4WD. That's great cuz my local track only allows FWD (i'd like a car where I can just change it back to RWD/4WD when not racing). And running my Cup Racer as FWD would be a nightmare!

I was just lamenting that I couldn't pick up a Front-Mid car w/RWD for a miata/Z4/billion other cars true to scale setup. So color me very interested.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:49 AM
  #21293  
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Originally Posted by firefoxussr View Post
What piqued my interest is it can be run as RWD or FWD or 4WD. That's great cuz my local track only allows FWD (i'd like a car where I can just change it back to RWD/4WD when not racing). And running my Cup Racer as FWD would be a nightmare!

I was just lamenting that I couldn't pick up a Front-Mid car w/RWD for a miata/Z4/billion other cars true to scale setup. So color me very interested.
Try an M01/2. That can be run in FWD or RWD configurations and it's mid motor. You might even find the uber-rare Tech Racing 4WD conversion if you're lucky.

Or an HPI RS4 Mini.

Or the more recent TA05 M-Four Mini.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by firefoxussr View Post
What piqued my interest is it can be run as RWD or FWD or 4WD. That's great cuz my local track only allows FWD (i'd like a car where I can just change it back to RWD/4WD when not racing). And running my Cup Racer as FWD would be a nightmare!

I was just lamenting that I couldn't pick up a Front-Mid car w/RWD for a miata/Z4/billion other cars true to scale setup. So color me very interested.
I use M06 for RWD scale bodies, Like the Alfa GTA, Alpine 110. Most are afraid to touch it because it take a little more effort to drive it.. But they do drive nice and are very competitive to M05.

I recently picked up a Top Racing Sabre Mini AWD. It's quality is fantastic, you can adjust the wheelbase between 210 and 225. I'd pick that over the MD.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:30 AM
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My head hurts :-(

Having read nearly the entire motor tips and tuning thread i am really no more informed than i was before i started. I have emailed the guy who sells red dot motors in the blind hope he will sell me a couple of motors and they are legal here in the uk.

The next thing i will do is buy a new torque tuned motor for my car as thats the one down on power.

Then it will be a case of making it my routine to clean the commutator after every practise session and at race events after every heat. This will be done with a cotton bud stick (I presume thats what you guys use) and a bit of brasso. This will be rinsed using electric contact spray and the bushes oiled using a watchmakers oiler and watchamkers oil (I already have some).

Having read all the "do the water break in thing" "dont do the water break in thing" i have decided that the motor will break itself in gradually. I will not be putting it near water.

Finally i will be installing the alu motor mount and heatsinks along with a fan if our club allows.

Not wanting anyone to say if this is the best method but i would appreciate someone telling me if i am gonna make things worse.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:31 AM
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The MD car looks quite unbalanced with the motor positioning.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Thelittlesthobo View Post
My head hurts :-(

Having read nearly the entire motor tips and tuning thread i am really no more informed than i was before i started.
Told you.

Originally Posted by Thelittlesthobo View Post
I have emailed the guy who sells red dot motors in the blind hope he will sell me a couple of motors and they are legal here in the uk.

The next thing i will do is buy a new torque tuned motor for my car as thats the one down on power.

Then it will be a case of making it my routine to clean the commutator after every practise session and at race events after every heat. This will be done with a cotton bud stick (I presume thats what you guys use) and a bit of brasso. This will be rinsed using electric contact spray and the bushes oiled using a watchmakers oiler and watchamkers oil (I already have some).

Having read all the "do the water break in thing" "dont do the water break in thing" i have decided that the motor will break itself in gradually. I will not be putting it near water.

Finally i will be installing the alu motor mount and heatsinks along with a fan if our club allows.

Not wanting anyone to say if this is the best method but i would appreciate someone telling me if i am gonna make things worse.

Two things.

1. Not running in the motor can not be a benefit. Don't run it in water (I never did), but run it in or it will run itself in under full stress and burn your comm in no time flat with all the arcing a pair of unseated/poorly seated brushes can kick up.

Put it this way. Apart from say half an hour there's nothing to lose if you run in your motor, there's nothing to gain if you don't (my comments above notwithstanding).

2. Using brasso/cotton buds. This is just wrong. Brasso is by default an abrasive, so getting it in the motor can not be a good idea no matter what, not to mention once it gets in the bushings there's not much you can do to get it out. Cotton buds are not going to do much. They're good for cleaning tape heads, but not here.
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:18 PM
  #21298  
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alright, so I got another m05 coming in that I'm going to convert to a rally car
what all should I get to do so?
I'm thinking:
m05-ra f parts (51425)
m05-ra skid plate (51426)
m05 block tires (51427)
and I read I also need longer ball connectors (19805825)?

not sure what shocks to go with, was thinking just cva or 3racing aluminum ones again
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:54 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions about the front-mid AWD cars.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
...
As for pushing the limits of the rules, I think that is not the point of the rules. The rules are there to create a fun environment for people to play with toy cars. Take a look around you. Every time someone focuses on pushing the limits of the rules, the fun goes out the window. Perhaps you should try to have fun instead.
This is a great quote. Some of the unhappiest drivers I see at the track are the more serious racers.
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