Since someone really wants to know, here's a list. Keep in mind the more blue, the faster you go ... and thank you, Markus.

54191 M05 Alum Steering Set
54192 M05 Alum Steering Link
54239 Stabilizer Set
54224 Alum Battery Holder
54530 Carbon Body Mount Crossmember
54177 Alum Front Upright
54319 Hollow Gear Shafts
54194 M05 Ball Differential
54180 M05 Titanium Screw Set
54529 M05 Setting Sus Arm Set Front
54183 Reinforced Freewheel Axle
53597 Universal Shaft Set
54236 M05 Alum Damper Stay
54542 M05 Alum Rear Suspension Mount
54208 5x8mm Fluor Hex-Head Ball Connectors
53598 Fluor 5mm Ball Connectors

... oh, and TRF dampers.

Thanks.

anyone notice on the V2 manual that the chassis/sus arm parts tree and motor mount don't have part numbers?

Yes, we know that. There are at least product codes assigned for customer service reference but not even that. Very unusual for tamiya to release parts with out part#s so wondering why.

Which rear upright are you using? Looks like there's a 1.0, 1.5, and a 2.0 available out there. Not sure what people use as a standard.

Inpuressa - Unfortunately, it's pure marketing. kits/manuals made in 8 or 9 months will have the part numbers. As for now Tamiya veterans know that the only parts that are different is the chassis tree, arms tree, and longer rear hinge pins.

Tamyia will sell lots of M05v2 pro kits. Then when everyone has one, they will release the spare part trees.
As for right now, This is the "HYPE" phase. creating the demand.
Honestly, I have my v2 built and ready to run, I think this mini will be a real game changer!
I have it full trim on my setup board and I can now set up this mini like a real touring car. all independent changes for the new car: camber, ride height, front and rear toe, droop. Just like a touring car

I'm sure Eric will chime.

In my experience, I've noticed that I've used this as a starting point:

of course its all based on track and traction.

m03/5s - 2.0
m03/5m -1.5
m03/5l -1.0

depending on rear traction at your track on any given day, you could add or take away rear toe. HTH

Thanks Markus, that helps a lot with me being new to the minis.

I'm wondering if the parts tree with the plastic motor mount will get changed. The boss for the spur gear axle is a little too long, I think. I'd know, but that would involve taking the car apart again.

Just looked at my workbench. I'm separating all my mini stuff out for storage and have noticed I've got a lot of mini springs. Several sets of mini fluoros, short touring car, short whites, a few sets of the insane grey/purple springs preferred by our friends in Oz. I've got at least 3 or 4 other sets of springs spread out in cars already stored.

You're right, I do have rear uprights too... Most of my list was read off new header tags, and I forgot that I did add a few "old" parts on my car - haha

The uprights on my car are the 1.5 degree type.

Kinda defeats the original purpose of the mini class imo.

My thoughts as well.. Always liked mini BC it was easy enough for the beginner to work on and learn driving ability and not have to worry so much about tuning.

Just wish it would have been left alone. Kinda like the RJ Speed/Bolink Legends car for oval was. Hasn't changed design in 20+ years and its a good starting point for the beginner just coming into the hobby. I understand the hobby has to grow with technology but some things that aren't broke just don't need fixing...

It is possible to run from zero to 3 degrees rear toe in on each side if use the original MO3 rear uprights and a combination of the plastic rear suspension mount and the Hop up part which incorporates 1 degree of toe in.

I think that is a wide rear tuning option. Most are either using the kit 1.5 or two degree rear toe. Plus the toe in would be different as one is in close to the chassis and the other out on the hub.

Just an observation. Then there is the tuning option with the rear shock tower.

Again, none of this is new. All these adjustments were already available and have been for years. The only change is that droop is now easier to access. My very first M03 had all this available. Just build it and drive it like you always have.

I agree with you Jim. Hopefully the new car will be better balanced than the original MO5. The addition of droop screws really are not that big a deal. If anything it should make the car easier to tune.

Mine will be built with some options and with a Top racing oil gear diff. These are better than the 3Racing in my opinion. Hopefully I will get an update on how it performs on the track soon.

It's like I've maintained from the beginning. The difference will be the square batteries. Droop screws and all the rest, just sell a lot of kits. Glad some are beginning to come my way.

Hi Guys, let me introduce myself. I'm new to RC and chose the M05 for two reasons.
1) my local club has a Mini series that runs any m05/m03 cars.
2) i have owned a 1965 Morris Mini for the past 11 years.

Ive had my M05 Mini Cooper built for about 2 weeks now and I'm getting ready to race it. My immediate plans are to add the following:
Alloy steering
Hobbywing 13t 35A combo (as per club rules)
Yeah racing shocks

I also want to change the tires and buy a few sets of wheels so that I can experiment with combos..
I am going to try both the medium and hard Shimizu Racing Mini Chassis 60 Slick Tire
I have a few questions that I thought you guys would be able to answer.
What wheels will fit my car? Are the monte carlo wheels the same size?
Will tamiya 50569 rims fit? I can only see them listed for the m03?

or are the M05 a different style?

Cheers
Filippimini