The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
#7816
No, just ignoring yours.
#7819
I'm using a viper system and so far very happy with it. I got a tekin in my 1/8 scale, it's about 3 years old now and have had no issues. You'll get all kinds of opinions on what is best, but there's no guarantee it will work for you. My suggestion would be to research how they are programmed cuz some are more complex and decide from there as to what will suit you
#7820
Using 1.5 x 2 , 35w , blue spring for the front shocks really made a huge improvement with the steering , not too much steering now.
Still , when the traction came up the car started to become edgy again just a little.
So today will be working on the front tire inserts.
Will be trying stiffer open cell & close cell ..
The idea is a stiffer insert will smooth out the tire.
If any if you guys using the alloy chassis ?
1.5 x 2 performs good but it's a bit stiff, try 1.6 x 2 if you need more steering.
Still , when the traction came up the car started to become edgy again just a little.
So today will be working on the front tire inserts.
Will be trying stiffer open cell & close cell ..
The idea is a stiffer insert will smooth out the tire.
If any if you guys using the alloy chassis ?
1.5 x 2 performs good but it's a bit stiff, try 1.6 x 2 if you need more steering.
#7821
Saw a set of bugle boy gear diffs on ebay for $100 if anyone is interested
cherry, I've been running the same setup in front, and running 32.5 in the rear with whites. The car handles great on high traction with the avid chassis and lands nice and smooth. I think the gear diffs combined with the chassis adds a touch more weight which feels most noticeable at higher speeds. It also seems to calm the buggy down in rougher areas of the track
cherry, I've been running the same setup in front, and running 32.5 in the rear with whites. The car handles great on high traction with the avid chassis and lands nice and smooth. I think the gear diffs combined with the chassis adds a touch more weight which feels most noticeable at higher speeds. It also seems to calm the buggy down in rougher areas of the track
#7823
I'm still tuning, the 1.5 x 2 35w is a keeper up front.
I ditched the blue front spring for red...
Also changing the Hard arms back to plastic .
my problem has been a 44.1 is about 10 times more aggressive then the 44.2..
I ditched the blue front spring for red...
Also changing the Hard arms back to plastic .
my problem has been a 44.1 is about 10 times more aggressive then the 44.2..
#7826
Tech Addict
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 576
cherry... why do you feel like you have to slam people? if your old car doesn't work as good as the new one your not setup right!!!! simple.
yes mine works great.
and I have been a factory driver for yrs, flown all over country and world.. raced the best in the country and world... I have raced world championships... been there done that. There are only a handful of drivers in the NW that I consider fast.. and well... your not one of them!
I am done responding to anything you post.. actually will try and block you just so I don't have to even see your posts.. this site is supposed to be for helping people.. but people like you ... actually no just mostly you...make it not even fun to come and try and help out.
yes mine works great.
and I have been a factory driver for yrs, flown all over country and world.. raced the best in the country and world... I have raced world championships... been there done that. There are only a handful of drivers in the NW that I consider fast.. and well... your not one of them!
I am done responding to anything you post.. actually will try and block you just so I don't have to even see your posts.. this site is supposed to be for helping people.. but people like you ... actually no just mostly you...make it not even fun to come and try and help out.
#7829
Tech Addict
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 576
that's the thing.. there is no universal amazing setup as driver styles are different and so are tracks all over. if your on hard pack certain type of tracks then a setup you get is a good starting point to shoot you in the right direction..
take a day with the car and see how it feels when you move just one thing at a time.. like the shock position in front on tower.. then on arm, then camber spots.. things like that.. then you can actually learn what changes you do make in the way your car feels and reacts.
one of the biggest mistakes I see in 4wd is that people usually run their slipper so tight that its pretty much locked.. a slipper is a great way to tune delivered power to the ground also making your car much easier to control in corners.
take a day with the car and see how it feels when you move just one thing at a time.. like the shock position in front on tower.. then on arm, then camber spots.. things like that.. then you can actually learn what changes you do make in the way your car feels and reacts.
one of the biggest mistakes I see in 4wd is that people usually run their slipper so tight that its pretty much locked.. a slipper is a great way to tune delivered power to the ground also making your car much easier to control in corners.
#7830
PROGRESS with the over steer
After consulting with my team mates with the issue...
To correct it ...
Removed the HARD arms &
switch back to plastic b44 arms...
Installed front sway bar (black)
Front shock
1.5 x 2 ,35w, Kyosho yellow spring
Rear
1.7 x 2, 32.5w , Kyosho white
Lap times were very good ...
After consulting with my team mates with the issue...
To correct it ...
Removed the HARD arms &
switch back to plastic b44 arms...
Installed front sway bar (black)
Front shock
1.5 x 2 ,35w, Kyosho yellow spring
Rear
1.7 x 2, 32.5w , Kyosho white
Lap times were very good ...




