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Old 06-01-2014 | 12:26 AM
  #7771  
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mschumi101 thank you for the help so far with the conversion, ordered some more parts to make it that much closer to the .2!

im in the process of rebuilding the diffs right now, and I was wondering if I could re use the diff balls? my plan was to flip the rings slight sand, (What grit paper is recommended?) if I need new diff balls ill just get new rings with them..

thanks again for all the help guys!
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Old 06-01-2014 | 09:43 AM
  #7772  
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If your diff balls are carbide or ceramic you can get away with with a second use as long as they were treated properly the first round. As in broken in correctly and no slipping (barking). Most of the time the grooves that get cut into the rings are what give the gritty feel but mostly the thrust bearing is what takes the most abuse. Sanding the rings is not recommended, you can polish them on a sharpening stone with cutting oil but it's not worth it as the balls cut their own groove anyways. For $28 per diff rebuild, really your not saving much by reusing anything and even then you won't have a completely smooth diff compared to everything being new.
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Old 06-01-2014 | 10:37 AM
  #7773  
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Ceramic diff balls will never flat spot like carbide, they last 4 ever...
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Old 06-01-2014 | 12:30 PM
  #7774  
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If you like the car, I would suggest dropping the dough on some gear diffs. I wasn't sure at first cuz of the cost, but it's definitely worth it
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Old 06-01-2014 | 01:38 PM
  #7775  
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Originally Posted by Pellefa
same with me to much steering, back end loose. Ended up with red fronts, black rears. Seems I am the only one on the black rears though...
With the more rigid Schelle chassis, I normally run AE black, Kyosho White, or Avid White rear spring. For the front end, I prefer Kyosho Orange or Avid Purple middle on the tower, and some guys run the red front springs with the front shocks inside on the tower.

Most guys on high grip like astro are running the black front rollbar, we ran it at Chico and Hartson has kept running the front rollbar on his car at various other tracks like OCRC and April Fools.
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Old 06-01-2014 | 02:18 PM
  #7776  
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Kdub

Are you using the Ae black rear's on higher traction indoor ?
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Old 06-01-2014 | 02:43 PM
  #7777  
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Originally Posted by mschumi101
All prepped for tomorrows Prairie Land Shootout at Leisure Hours Raceway in the Chicago area.

So I decided to add a "shark-fin" to my Finnisher body to hopefully help it fly straighter, and be more balanced in the air (Leisure Hours has some huge jumps, and it can be windy). So far in straight-line testing in the street it is proving to be more stable in a straight line at high speeds. No wobbling of the fin, and a noticeably more stable car overall. I'll see how it reacts in the air over the jumps tomorrow. I made it out of some scrap lexan, cut it to the contour of the body, and bent a small portion so it could be fastened to the body. I used double sided tape and it seems sturdy. Just have to see how it will perform!











Hello, can i know where you get the shock tower stickers from? Also love the custom "shark fin" on the car. Cheers...
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Old 06-01-2014 | 04:52 PM
  #7778  
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What a good esc to use with the b44.2
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Old 06-01-2014 | 05:54 PM
  #7779  
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Originally Posted by Airride
What a good esc to use with the b44.2
Lol, you're gonna get a bunch of suggestions I just started using Viper vtx10r/ 7.5 and have been very happy with it. Really any 1/10 scale system will work, it's just what you prefer. Most guys stick to one system since it's familiar to them i.e. tekin, orion, etc.
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Old 06-01-2014 | 06:31 PM
  #7780  
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Anything will work. I like the hacker brand have one in my b54 and B5M

https://www.aero-model.com/6_55/Elec...e-Car-ESC.html
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Old 06-01-2014 | 07:33 PM
  #7781  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Ceramic diff balls will never flat spot like carbide, they last 4 ever...
Hideeho
Amazing! Something I agree with WC about 100%!
If you set your slipper right you'll never eat ring & pinion gears. That makes the dif rings the only part that is truly a wear item in the difs.
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Old 06-01-2014 | 09:37 PM
  #7782  
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So I was browsing on the Jconcepts site for tires and while poking around I noticed they sold a "BJ4" kit which I assume is for the b44.2 but looks quite different. Does anyone know if this is indeed a hop up kit for the b44.2? The info on the site is pretty vague.
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Old 06-01-2014 | 09:41 PM
  #7783  
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The b44 is based on the bj4. Pretty much the same car.
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Old 06-01-2014 | 10:18 PM
  #7784  
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Originally Posted by likea45
So I was browsing on the Jconcepts site for tires and while poking around I noticed they sold a "BJ4" kit which I assume is for the b44.2 but looks quite different. Does anyone know if this is indeed a hop up kit for the b44.2? The info on the site is pretty vague.
Hideeho
The bj4 is the car the original b44.0 was based on. There is a lot of compatibility between the bj4 & b44.0. With all the changes for .1 & .2, there is not much left that would be more desirable than the AE b44.2 parts. Unless, of course, if you still run nicd or nimh batteries.
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Old 06-01-2014 | 10:27 PM
  #7785  
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Originally Posted by greenruby79
Hello, can i know where you get the shock tower stickers from? Also love the custom "shark fin" on the car. Cheers...
I bought them off of ebay about a year ago. They also came with top deck liner, and a chassis protector on the bottom. At the time I was able to customize the colors and some part of the design. It was by some guy in singapore or hong kong... The product is nice, very durable. Its pre-cut to all the holes and sticks right on, very strong. Though it is kind of bunched on the sides that it is sandwiched between parts, which is reasonable. I think he still makes them, I know he does them for all sorts of cars, including some on-road. It was around $20-30. Here are some body-off pics of my old old electronics (since updated to Orion R10 pro/Ballistic 6.5).









I believe this is the seller: http://www.ebay.com/usr/playmorehobb...84.m1423.l2754
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