The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
#7771
mschumi101 thank you for the help so far with the conversion, ordered some more parts to make it that much closer to the .2!
im in the process of rebuilding the diffs right now, and I was wondering if I could re use the diff balls? my plan was to flip the rings slight sand, (What grit paper is recommended?) if I need new diff balls ill just get new rings with them..
thanks again for all the help guys!
im in the process of rebuilding the diffs right now, and I was wondering if I could re use the diff balls? my plan was to flip the rings slight sand, (What grit paper is recommended?) if I need new diff balls ill just get new rings with them..
thanks again for all the help guys!
#7772
If your diff balls are carbide or ceramic you can get away with with a second use as long as they were treated properly the first round. As in broken in correctly and no slipping (barking). Most of the time the grooves that get cut into the rings are what give the gritty feel but mostly the thrust bearing is what takes the most abuse. Sanding the rings is not recommended, you can polish them on a sharpening stone with cutting oil but it's not worth it as the balls cut their own groove anyways. For $28 per diff rebuild, really your not saving much by reusing anything and even then you won't have a completely smooth diff compared to everything being new.
#7775
Most guys on high grip like astro are running the black front rollbar, we ran it at Chico and Hartson has kept running the front rollbar on his car at various other tracks like OCRC and April Fools.
#7777
All prepped for tomorrows Prairie Land Shootout at Leisure Hours Raceway in the Chicago area.
So I decided to add a "shark-fin" to my Finnisher body to hopefully help it fly straighter, and be more balanced in the air (Leisure Hours has some huge jumps, and it can be windy). So far in straight-line testing in the street it is proving to be more stable in a straight line at high speeds. No wobbling of the fin, and a noticeably more stable car overall. I'll see how it reacts in the air over the jumps tomorrow. I made it out of some scrap lexan, cut it to the contour of the body, and bent a small portion so it could be fastened to the body. I used double sided tape and it seems sturdy. Just have to see how it will perform!






So I decided to add a "shark-fin" to my Finnisher body to hopefully help it fly straighter, and be more balanced in the air (Leisure Hours has some huge jumps, and it can be windy). So far in straight-line testing in the street it is proving to be more stable in a straight line at high speeds. No wobbling of the fin, and a noticeably more stable car overall. I'll see how it reacts in the air over the jumps tomorrow. I made it out of some scrap lexan, cut it to the contour of the body, and bent a small portion so it could be fastened to the body. I used double sided tape and it seems sturdy. Just have to see how it will perform!






#7779
Lol, you're gonna get a bunch of suggestions
I just started using Viper vtx10r/ 7.5 and have been very happy with it. Really any 1/10 scale system will work, it's just what you prefer. Most guys stick to one system since it's familiar to them i.e. tekin, orion, etc.
I just started using Viper vtx10r/ 7.5 and have been very happy with it. Really any 1/10 scale system will work, it's just what you prefer. Most guys stick to one system since it's familiar to them i.e. tekin, orion, etc.
#7780
Anything will work. I like the hacker brand have one in my b54 and B5M
https://www.aero-model.com/6_55/Elec...e-Car-ESC.html
https://www.aero-model.com/6_55/Elec...e-Car-ESC.html
#7781
Amazing! Something I agree with WC about 100%!

If you set your slipper right you'll never eat ring & pinion gears. That makes the dif rings the only part that is truly a wear item in the difs.
#7782
So I was browsing on the Jconcepts site for tires and while poking around I noticed they sold a "BJ4" kit which I assume is for the b44.2 but looks quite different. Does anyone know if this is indeed a hop up kit for the b44.2? The info on the site is pretty vague.
#7784
The bj4 is the car the original b44.0 was based on. There is a lot of compatibility between the bj4 & b44.0. With all the changes for .1 & .2, there is not much left that would be more desirable than the AE b44.2 parts. Unless, of course, if you still run nicd or nimh batteries.
#7785




I believe this is the seller: http://www.ebay.com/usr/playmorehobb...84.m1423.l2754



