295LikesTamiya mini cooper
04-28-2014 | 03:26 AM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 78
I found the only "upgrades" that helped me were
1. Superglue on outside of front tyres to help stop grip roll (on carpet).
2. Tamiya short spring set to lower the ride height.
I did eventually put on oil shocks, but other than that, my M05 is as it was built. And it's very competitive at our local club.
1. Superglue on outside of front tyres to help stop grip roll (on carpet).
2. Tamiya short spring set to lower the ride height.
I did eventually put on oil shocks, but other than that, my M05 is as it was built. And it's very competitive at our local club.
04-28-2014 | 11:40 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 192
We don't have time any more. Plus there isn't a lot that we haven't already covered.
Also, the site need to be upgraded to later edition of the OS to keep functioning and its not worth the time and effort for us to do so.
We've done what we wanted to do, and our FB page will keep running.
Also, the site need to be upgraded to later edition of the OS to keep functioning and its not worth the time and effort for us to do so.
We've done what we wanted to do, and our FB page will keep running.
Hi Niznai, your point taken, but I wish to learn a lot from RC Tuning, and this can be achieved by trying various setting of hop-ups. Further, I also love to put hop ups in my Mini, and seek a lot of bling colors under the bodyshell.
04-28-2014 | 02:40 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Yes, it's true, it is not necessary to do any upgrades. The car will run just fine and in some hands may even be competitive. You'll find tho that many will suggest some upgrades. I'll go thru just a few and let you come to your on conclusions.
1. Aluminum steering rack or linkage. The kit one works fine till you "tweak" it. If you're a great driver that never "hits" anything the kit one will be fine. The rest of us will tweak it and be replacing it very frequently. It's much cheaper in the long run to add the upgrade.
2. Oil filled shocks. There may be a way to build the stock ones to work as well as the oil filled ones, but every time you adjust the ride height it's a rebuild.
3. Al front uprights. The kit ones will bend, the al one do not. Use the stock ones till you bend them then upgrade to the Al units.
4. CVD. Dog bones constantly fall out and get lost especially in crashes.
You get the idea. If upgrades are done for sound reasons, they are worthwhile. They will increase the "fun" if you're not constantly replacing bent parts, rebuilding something that could be adjusted with a twist of a collar and so on.
I really don't know how it is in other locales, but around here, all of the competitive cars have a number of upgrades.
1. Aluminum steering rack or linkage. The kit one works fine till you "tweak" it. If you're a great driver that never "hits" anything the kit one will be fine. The rest of us will tweak it and be replacing it very frequently. It's much cheaper in the long run to add the upgrade.
2. Oil filled shocks. There may be a way to build the stock ones to work as well as the oil filled ones, but every time you adjust the ride height it's a rebuild.
3. Al front uprights. The kit ones will bend, the al one do not. Use the stock ones till you bend them then upgrade to the Al units.
4. CVD. Dog bones constantly fall out and get lost especially in crashes.
You get the idea. If upgrades are done for sound reasons, they are worthwhile. They will increase the "fun" if you're not constantly replacing bent parts, rebuilding something that could be adjusted with a twist of a collar and so on.
I really don't know how it is in other locales, but around here, all of the competitive cars have a number of upgrades.
05-02-2014 | 10:03 AM
05-02-2014 | 01:51 PM
The last one did that too.
Looks like there won't be any problems with motor fitment, but no I'm wondering about gears again. Someone had suggested that they'd probably just slide the pinion further onto the motor, but I mocked it up and that would have the spur gear right up against the can, leaving no room for the motor plate or the spur shaft. I'm eager to see how they pulled this off. I'm going back to thinking they whole gear box just got shoved to the right 4.5mm. Minimal new parts required. Maybe a longer intermediate gear.
Also, looks like the front lower arms match now. No more left/right.
Looks like there won't be any problems with motor fitment, but no I'm wondering about gears again. Someone had suggested that they'd probably just slide the pinion further onto the motor, but I mocked it up and that would have the spur gear right up against the can, leaving no room for the motor plate or the spur shaft. I'm eager to see how they pulled this off. I'm going back to thinking they whole gear box just got shoved to the right 4.5mm. Minimal new parts required. Maybe a longer intermediate gear.
Also, looks like the front lower arms match now. No more left/right.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 05-02-2014 at 02:14 PM.
05-02-2014 | 02:17 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
It looks as if the motor is completely enclosed, which can be a problem, especially for the TCS guys. Just from the photo, a fan for motor cooling won't be any help.
I'm going to pass on this one unless they change the motor rules for the TCS series.
I'm going to pass on this one unless they change the motor rules for the TCS series.
05-03-2014 | 03:26 AM
05-03-2014 | 05:08 AM
Sorry I don't believe that picture is the finished MO5 Ver 2. It maybe a pre production chassis but that car can not fit a square battery pack. Yes it may have some of the changes on it but not all of them. Or are they going to let you choose either a square or round battery front chassis.
Plus you will require different battery outer supports.
Forever the skeptic
Calvin.
Plus you will require different battery outer supports.
Forever the skeptic
Calvin.