The short arm makes the rear more active, it rotates faster and for me it has more on power traction. The car also squares up better and more consistent sliding into the corner. It's a big change and you will notice it instantly, if your car pushes going into the corner try the inner hole.not sure what you mean by shock ends?

Thx;-) For the rear shock using the inner arm hole is that bcos u want to have more rear droop or faster rear response?

I run the inner hole because it soaks up the bumps better and the car has more rear traction. As soon as you go to the outer holes the car breaks loose mid corner for me.

Having a bit of a hard time without going part by part and searching. It appears a huge chunk of the car is identical to the EB48, possibly practically the entire front/rear sections. Other than central chassis and various components, rear gear box, what is different?

I'm going to continue to look, but figured one of you guys that run/know both may have the quicker answer.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Ring-Gear-40T

Front and rear dog center bones also etc., see below

Chassis, steel spur, fr center and rear center drive shafts, +2 offset wheel hexes, offset rear gear box, rear chassis braces, side trays, rear diff ring and pinion, etc.

Awesome. So while there are some things on that list, a TON of what I already have stocked spare is compatible.

Yes. I'd say a good 70% or so you have

Finally threw it into dirt

A lot of dirt


Rear susp. check=)

Vandal zzz what is the finger loop attached to fuel lid "technically" called? I've been looking for them but no luck?

You mean this one?

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Tank-Lid-Pull

Very nice.

Also uploaded one boring video from onboard cam: making laarge 8's for breakin' in engine

First drive/race with the car this weekend. I was really impressed with the handling of the car in the box stock form. Especially the durability in the 35-40* weather. Very durable except for the fuel tank. Lost the clunk line after about 10 min of practice. Doubled the line up over the fitting and resolved that issue. Got about 5 more min in until I saw it spray the track with fuel. Cracked the rear tank mount off. Switched it out with a replacement tank. Ran through 2 of the 3 quals then had the same result with a broken tank. Swapped again. Had to start in the D main. Drove clean and easy and bumped into the C. Made it about 4 min into the C then was plagued by the same issue again. I did all the tricks like opening up the holes, loosened the mounting screws, foam under the tank. I think its a combined issue of plastic type, thickness, mounting point reinforcement, and the tank posts being too rigid. The JQ car had a similar issue and it was fixed largely by switching to a more flexible tank mount post. I cant afford to replace tanks every other qual and main.