Well since i race on mostly low traction outdoor tracks not all ruff though i have my at 27mm f/r mostly because the track i was at was loose and blown out . 32w/1.2 / 30W/1.3 8 hole pistons. 1 negative on the Front camber /1/, 1/2 Rear camber to not grab ruts as easy. Droop i have the screws just touching the chassis (Mugen droop screws) .

Green springs all around . No center or rear chassis brace just the Front. 1-Front Toe out not sure the truck needs it though . Middle hole on the Front tower/middle hole on arm, 2nd hole inside on the Rear tower/middle hole on arms.

Soft Endoros which worked great on the loose dry tracks.

Yeah, this truck has so much turn on I choose a little exit steering over entrance steering with as close as I can get to zero toe (eyeball on the setup board). Eyeball calibration is within 0.5° erroring on the side of toe out

This thing doesn't need help turning in

Yea i could use more exiting steering actually . If anything getting rid of the toe out up front will make the truck easier drive.

How much better is the HD saver spring than the old stock one ? I have my tighten down a mill meter from stock.



Yea the truck does not need more turn in even with less steering throw .

Those running the +1.5 RR block. Do you run dot out or dot middle most often?

Middle dot. Outer dot is a bit too much rear toe in generally.

Which motor did you run?

Does anyone use timing or boost with the 4-poles or just let the motor do the work?

Yeah, just a wee bit warmer

Heard a rumor a track local may go in. I am crossing fingers.

Looking to try possibly 7-7-5 for loose conditions here with the BCE chassis. looking to play with toe settings for rotation versus using the rear diff fluid change for traction and rotation.

question now is which way to go with shocks. Thinking vented for consistency but I did like the feel of my daughters SCT410 with emulsion.

and may go with a lighter oil setup too on the 1.3 x 8 hole pistons, something I have been toying with trying.

What about front inserts both for caster and sweep?

Have my shocks close to where I want then for each track I go to and now I want to get an idea for fine tuning. Start with what is common and then try different things from there...

Tried something a little different

After running the truck for a few weeks stock I changed the diffs from 7-7-5 to 7-5-5 to hopefully get a bit more on power steering, it worked great but then I started wearing out front tires twice as fast as the rears, and the tires were top fueling it big time on the straights, in other words a lot of front tire spinning. so to hopefully help that I went to 7-6-5 in the diffs, big difference still has good on power steering, but the front tires stay planted and flat and after the race this weekend the tires were wearing very even front to back.

FYI I made my own 6k by carefully measuring half 7k and 5k with a syringe.

Very happy with the result

Randy

I been using 5,7,3 on my 7 in the Front felt like i needed to wait for the truck to go though the turn like lazy. When i first drove this truck i had 7,5,3 the 5 in the center to me with a 4600kv felt sluggish not enough off power steering but than i had crappy springs etc.


Some of you guys must run on higher grip tracks running 5k in the rear diff . I do have 4k to try in the rear diff though but 3k seems to work on low grip.

Went to the MotoGP race last weekend. This delayed the purchase of my SCT410 by a few weeks but I want to go ahead and buy all the tools I need so I will be ready to build as soon as it gets here. I need a full list of tools I will be using for the build along with any recommended tools for calibration or maintenance. Thanks in advanc.

just to confirm as I haven't installed any of the 1.5+ brace stuff an settings, basically the brace is adding like 0.5 to the toe right? so the current max toe is like 4.5 stock, the .5 makes it with max settings like 5.0 or is really 1.5+ to the whole max toe?

The required tools and parts will be in the front of the manual, available off of the website. Pretty much the whole build is 2 and 2.5 hex drivers, with a couple nut drivers or wrenches used for shock tower tops and outer hinge pins in the rear. Needle nose pliers will make the build much easier, as will attaching the steering servo linkage before putting the front of the truck on (though not horrible to get the nut in with the needle nose if you wait until the end).

A ride height gauge and a camber gauge will be the best way to measure your adjustments, rather then by length of turnbuckles as is listed during the build for rough guidance to start with. A stand to rest the shocks in, or a shock pump, will help you get a more consistent build more quickly and easily.

My list looks like this:

Must have:Recommended: (by me )
For setup and calibration: ride height gauge, a pair of digital calipers for droop setting and a camber gauge.


Maintenance: Simple green, spare shock and diff oils, a good grease for ring and pinion gears, electric motor cleaner is useful for many things, I like a dry silicon lube of some sort for turnbuckle balls and hinge pins, and most important... elbow grease.

Drill the side holes.
Put bladder in cap.
Fill and bleed shocks.
Put cap half on.
Push shaft in so far as you want rebound. Let oil escape out of side hole.
Screw cap all the way in.

Easy and consistent.
Check bladder from time to time by stretching a little. If running no limiters the rear shock nut hits the bladder.