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Old 04-14-2014 | 07:42 AM
  #21376  
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Sometimes I hate building shocks and right now is one of those times. I was running standard vent but I'm use to running emulsion built shocks. Well the last standard vent went ok, not this time one has a little rebound other has none. And when I put them on a matching tool it's a pretty good difference. Took them apart several times now but still not right. Emulsion build is much easier I think.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 07:45 AM
  #21377  
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Originally Posted by wreckya
Sometimes I hate building shocks and right now is one of those times. I was running standard vent but I'm use to running emulsion built shocks. Well the last standard vent went ok, not this time one has a little rebound other has none. And when I put them on a matching tool it's a pretty good difference. Took them apart several times now but still not right. Emulsion build is much easier I think.
I have the same problem building bladder setup on the SCT, but not on the eb48.

I think it's the difference between the Al and plastic caps. Even though i drilled out the approach holes for bladder setup on the plastic caps, I still get that little bit of rebound added when the cap is screwed down all the way tight, but on the eb48.2 Al caps it bleeds out and sets to zero rebound like clock work.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 07:46 AM
  #21378  
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Originally Posted by losicorey
I wouldn't bother getting the tekin stuff. Get the hobbywing sct pro and 3565 motor (400-4700 depending on track size) runs awesome and has more power than the pro4 IMO and is half the price
i cant comment on HW stuff, I have been wanting to try it, but I can say I have been running my pro4 4600 kv ans rx8 gen1 for 3 years and still going strong, i did replace the rotor about a year ago.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 07:53 AM
  #21379  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
I have the same problem building bladder setup on the SCT, but not on the eb48.

I think it's the difference between the Al and plastic caps. Even though i drilled out the approach holes for bladder setup on the plastic caps, I still get that little bit of rebound added when the cap is screwed down all the way tight, but on the eb48.2 Al caps it bleeds out and sets to zero rebound like clock work.
Maybe it's the bladders I'm using also, but it's hard to keep them where there suppose to be when u start screwing on the cap. Sometimes the bladder stays put and sometimes it dont. I'm using CSI bladders. I don't know why Tekno didn't build aluminum emulsion style caps also. Do a lot of e buggies and e truggies run the standard shocks aka with bladders?
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Old 04-14-2014 | 09:57 AM
  #21380  
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Well I just switched to a softer spring set up and it was dialed for my track and then they changed the layout and now I am searching again. It went from a big table top in to a big jump into a bowl and now it's a small rhythm of 4 with an entry jump so I would say a double double into the big jump into the bowl and with the soft springs (grey fronts and black rears) I was not able to get through the double double clean I would do the first double and it would take too long to lift back up and the nose would dig in the front side of the jump and I would be screwed so I went up in spring rate again, I am starting with green fronts and pink rears and I will see how it go's. That all being said I finished second overall yesterday b it I am fighting the truck the whole time through that section. Keep y'all posted.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 10:27 AM
  #21381  
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Originally Posted by wreckya
Maybe it's the bladders I'm using also, but it's hard to keep them where there suppose to be when u start screwing on the cap. Sometimes the bladder stays put and sometimes it dont. I'm using CSI bladders. I don't know why Tekno didn't build aluminum emulsion style caps also. Do a lot of e buggies and e truggies run the standard shocks aka with bladders?
What I do is hold the bladder down with my finger while I push the shaft up to the top, then pull the shaft back down a few mm to hold the bladder in place. Then I put the cap on and twist it backwards until I feel it drop into the thread and then screw it the rest of the way down.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 10:39 AM
  #21382  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
What I do is hold the bladder down with my finger while I push the shaft up to the top, then pull the shaft back down a few mm to hold the bladder in place. Then I put the cap on and twist it backwards until I feel it drop into the thread and then screw it the rest of the way down.
Do this wreck0ya
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Old 04-14-2014 | 11:05 AM
  #21383  
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Originally Posted by wreckya
The stuff on the bottom is 3M and yea it's CF and they make it in a cpl colors got it off e bay it's 3 mil thick. Then I got their clear stuff to go over the CF which is 8 mil thick. It's used for protecting car paint wherever u wanna put it. Nascar uses it on the front of there cars. It's not cheap though. It only looks that good cuz it's all brand new. I wish I had paint skills like that lol, that's my boy back in Pa. I will post his website link I think it's Ridgewayboddies.com I will double check.
just you order all that hardware individually? is it titanium ?
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Old 04-14-2014 | 03:58 PM
  #21384  
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So I ran the motor on the street for testing. I used a 14t pinion and this thing is insane! I was checking temp and adjusting brakes for about 5 mins and then something weird happend. I was bringing the truck back to me to check temps and it just stopped like I put on the brakes. I grabbed the truck and the motor had a smell to it but temps where 146°. It runs but after letting off the throttle it's like I slammed on the brakes. I emailed trinity per the instructions in the box and they said to send it in. I only ran this motor in the street for 5mins. It's a beast but hope this is a isolated problem.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 04:21 PM
  #21385  
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Did the screws come loose? I had that happen to a HW 3656, exact same thing except I got a few days out of it.
HW covered it, but the feeble little screw these companies are using to hold 1.5hp+ motors together needs to be rethought. They did loctight from the factory.

I have to check screws every month or so and every once in a while I will find one or two trying to work their way out. Next time I dig into it I'm using red loctight, its a sealed motor so I don't care if it ever comes apart at this point.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 04:30 PM
  #21386  
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Originally Posted by fq06
Did the screws come loose? I had that happen to a HW 3656, exact same thing except I got a few days out of it.
HW covered it, but the feeble little screw these companies are using to hold 1.5hp+ motors together needs to be rethought. They did loctight from the factory.

I have to check screws every month or so and every once in a while I will find one or two trying to work their way out. Next time I dig into it I'm using red loctight, its a sealed motor so I don't care if it ever comes apart at this point.
Yea and even Tekin doesn't seem to use loctite on their motors from the factory. Took my T8 and HD4300 pro apart for basic cleaning and checking bearings and didn't see any white gunk on the screws.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 04:31 PM
  #21387  
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Nope I didn't do any jumps just on the street. The motor was intact.
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Old 04-14-2014 | 04:37 PM
  #21388  
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been awhile, how are things everyone!

So, whats the hot extra low traction setup people are running now?
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Old 04-14-2014 | 05:26 PM
  #21389  
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A few people have asked recently but no new go to for super loose.

The arctic tundra over there should be thawing out by now right?
Go get one dialed in and post to Petit setups for other thread members
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Old 04-14-2014 | 05:34 PM
  #21390  
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Originally Posted by wreckya
Sometimes I hate building shocks and right now is one of those times. I was running standard vent but I'm use to running emulsion built shocks. Well the last standard vent went ok, not this time one has a little rebound other has none. And when I put them on a matching tool it's a pretty good difference. Took them apart several times now but still not right. Emulsion build is much easier I think.


Yup thats why i stick with Emulsion style shocks.
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