I'm using the Futaba 4PS. I will have to check the nuetral. It ran a few laps fine before I had any problem. I had recently adjusted my throttle forward EPA from 100 to about 85. I also tried setting it on a new model on the radio with factory defaults except for reversing steering. Did a calibrate also after that, but still same issue. I will check my nuetral when I get home. About where is it normally?

With that radio you should be able to run 5 neutral width. It sounded like you couldn't get it to calibrate but looks like it did from this post ^

Try bump neutral width 10 higher than what you're at and if that works go down 2 until the problem comes back and then go up two to get it to work again.
That's the narrowest neutral width you can run with your radio.
With my MT-4 the NW is set to 5 but spectrum's usually want 10... all radios are a little different.

It sounds like the neutral signal is moving a bit and the ESC is in too tight of a range and not consistently seeing neutral based on the error code you mentioned.

Ok. Thanks. I'll check it out when I get home.

This sounds like a radio issue. Make sure you set your epa's to 100/100 and re calibrate your radio to your esc.

I did that a couple times at least, gonna look into a coupl other suggestions too. Thanks.

You probably tried/know this, but it threw me off a few times. When you calibrate it does neutral first. When mode is held down it makes musical chimes, but then you get the steady beep-beep-beep-beep which then means it's checking neural, when it changes tone after that and repeates the steady beeps, then you pull the trigger, wait for confirmation, full break, then your done.

I got messed up and did full throttle a step early till I figured out where I was going wrong.

Also on the Futaba radios for whatever reason the throttle ratio is 50/50 where we prefer 70/30 for racing.

Also make sure you're on the right "mode". There's a setting in the 4pk line that must be set to the "non BLS" mode for esc's. It's in the manual.

That is my thought as well. I'm hoping Randy Pike has the official answer. : )

Could always set it to like 20 then do a few laps and measure, then set to 100 and do the same and compare. Data logging would have all the info you need to get the numbers.

Sorry what did I miss?

Randy, this was back on page 134. I asked the following:
There has been a healthy debate recently at our local track. When setting the current limit on an RX8 Gen2 to say 70% does that increase of decrease heat in the ESC? There are two camps one saying it would increase heat in the esc as it is needing to act as a current block others feel it should be cooler as its not allowing the motor to draw more current. This would be in an SCT or 1/8 buggy application.

Thank you

I am having the exact same problem, still no luck for me

Edit: I thing my problem is fixed, I went into the settings and calibrated the trigger, I had a quick burn around the house and it didn't drop out, I will do a proper test tomorrow after work, fingers crossed.

I hooked the hotwire up last night. Looked like a lot of my settings had changed. Probablly when I was pushing buttons to calibrate last Saturday. The nuetral was actually at 25 which I'm pretty sure I had it at 10 before. I bumped it even higher and lower. Still the same thing, but it did seem to find nuetral and other psoitions faster this time. If I squeeze the throttle slowly, it wil accelerate. If I squeeze just slightly too fast, it stops suddenly and flashes forward 3 light or rear 3 lights depending on the direction I moved the trigger.

What would be a good starting point for all the settings (neutral, push, timing, etc.) now that mine seem to have changed from what were set before. It's mated to the 4300HD and I'm running in pro4 shortcourse. I think I have an idea but would like to hear what others have to say.

I have a question on ESC Temp, what is a acceptable ?
Motor 185 degrees ESC -192 degrees
My ESC is thermalling around 6.5 minutes and I would think my pinion is ok
No timing , no fan, CL 80, 1 - 125' straightaway
EB48
2050 T8 - 18 pinion
RX8 G2
Outdoor low bite
SMC 6500 4S

I've never really seen a temp change in the esc, but sometimes the motor due to the reduced "work" load if you will.

If your esc is hotter than your motor for example this is often a sign of a under geared car or a LOT of wheel spin. You will generally notice when the wheel spin is the problem the batter also is quite warm.

In that case I've always found it better to make either a gearing change or a car setup change. On the 4wd SC's for example if you have spur gear options, make sure you use them. In general figure one or two teeth on a spur gear is 1/2 a pinion gear change. So for example on the TLR Ten Scte the stock gear is a 39. MIP makes a 41. So if you wanted to go up 1/2 a pinion say from 14 to 15 you can get a "14 1/2" by going up to the 15T but UP in the Spur to the 41 to match it.

On 1/8 buggies don't be scared to mess with the center diff fluids. If you're blowing up the front tires the car is loosing forwards acceleration so try going up 2k in the center. Now it will affect the car elsewhere so remember it's always about the "balance" of the car. If the change makes the car harder to drive on the rest of the track, look at changing the weight around or a stiffer rear shock package to keep the nose down. Reducing front droop can also help.