Tekin ESC puts out 6v and 8v. It says 7.4 just as a generic label for HV but the actual output is 8v.
That is actually better than 7.4v for a true HV servo that is intended to take up to 8.4v, but it may not turn out well for a servo intended for 6v.

I have heard of people running those at 6.5 up to 7 volts without issue but it may be a bad day for that savox running it at 8v.

The savox burning up may be the best thing for you though. Those are good cheap servos but they work best in lower amp draw power systems like 2wd buggy, ST, SCT, 4x buggy and 1/8 buggy but a majority of the issues reported with those are in a 4x SCT (especially with a spectrum radio). Its the perfect storm.

I stripped a gear in a airtronics servo a couple years ago that was about a decade old in the 2nd heat. Replaced with the savox which was the only servo the track had for under $175.
Threw it in my 4x SCT running RX8.1 and tenshock 4600.
Got through 2 warm up laps and couldn't line up for the start without running into people, steering was starting to get glitchy and strange... what the heck?! Tone beeps, we're off, couldn't get more than a couple of turns into the first lap because the steering was all over the place. Days done.

Sent the ESC into Tekin and the bec was burnt out. I would assume from the minute it was run with the savox. I had ran it with the airtronics servo for about 6 months without issue. The minute I bolt the savox in, burnt up the bec in a ESC known for an industry leading bec.

That same savox has been in my B44 for over a year without a glitch or any hint of an issue powered by a rs pro. Fantastic servo!!!... in a 1/10 buggy.

Mainly just wanted to point out that the 7.4 setting in the RX8.2 will deliver 8.4, not 7.4v but the story went from there

Isn't that ironic..lol

The Toyota one is a Proline yeah?

Friend is running one with a HW 4000 4-pole and the 4-pole firmware. Others running Descs with same combo. No problems only great power delivery.

For whatever reason. The Proline Toyota body has been the most durable body i've ever ran. And i've ran every body except for the Jconcept Nissan Body and the Soccer mom van.

I'm not a real fan of how the Toyota body looks on my Tekno (It's a 'me' thing) but it's absolutely solid.

Nice to know I would have never thought it. Is it a snug fit around the side bumpers on the chassis protecting the electronics and battery tray? I have found that wider bodies in that area like the F-250 tend to parachute badly on the larger jumps.

I still don't know which spring is included, but have confirmed that they are the new style of shock body/guide and aluminum caps/cartridges with Tekno.

hey guys i am going thur the whole truck after the build and notice alot of play in the front drive-shaft like back and forth movement between front and center diff its not alot where it would pop out under have throttle or chassis flex just but just wondering if its normal and if not what would be a fix for it thanks

It's normal.

The complete shock sets both come with Yellow springs.

-Thomas

I've asked this before
does anyone run ProTC3 inserts in their SC truck?
setups? changes?
what about the 15* spindle carriers?

A little fuel tubing in the outdrive and that will take the back & forth clunk out of the front shaft.

Seems like letting it float would help avoid excessive wear in one spot. Like my old Hyper 10. Center outdrives still look great.

Tried it. Hated it. Parachuted real bad. Didn't hold up well. (Lots of corners for cracks to start in)

A small bit of fuel tube or an oring inside the base of the out drive will just stop the clunk, not the amount of play. If you put a bunch in though, it will remove the play and that can be bad, not just for wear, but also when the chassis flexes, putting more strain on the driveline.