Tekno SCT410 Thread
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (81)
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 947
From: Hammonton, NJ
What I didn't try, and I wish I would have. I didn't think of it at the time. Since I have 2 batteries. As soon as the issue started, I should swapped in the other pack quickly and went back on the track. That way I would know for sure if it's a battery issue. If it would go another 5 min or so until it starts acting up it's obviously the battery voltage. If it continued to shut down then it is most likely a heat issue somewhere. Most likely inside the ESC. Probably once it gets warm maybe there's a poor solder spot on the circuit board or something. Ill try this as well on Wednesday when I'm back at the track.
This still sounds like the ESC going into thermal shut down. It takes a while to get hot then once it hits the limit it shuts down, cools off and comes back on. However when it comes back on it is still hot internally and likely goes into thermal mode much quicker than original. Is your fan coming on when you turn on the ESC? I had mine plugged in wrong at first and it was not coming on. While it did not cause the issue you are having I still think that is it.
Yup fan comes on for a few seconds when I turn it on and then goes off. After that 5 or so min mark when it starts shutting down and resetting, the fan is on constantly. The led temp indicator shows up as 1 led light blinking. Meaning the ESC temp is ambient temp. Not even warm yet.
This still sounds like the ESC going into thermal shut down. It takes a while to get hot then once it hits the limit it shuts down, cools off and comes back on. However when it comes back on it is still hot internally and likely goes into thermal mode much quicker than original. Is your fan coming on when you turn on the ESC? I had mine plugged in wrong at first and it was not coming on. While it did not cause the issue you are having I still think that is it.
Neither thermal overload or LVC should have the ESC rebooting, they would just have blinking lights. I think the problem may lie elswhere as in a connection, or the servo browning out the RX momentarily, which can happen so quick you never lose steering but the ESC has to reboot. personally, I cut every ESC swithch off and solder the wires together before even installing. I'm curious what your cell voltages are when you pull it off after this, also how many mah you're putting back in when charging.....
Battery voltage was anywhere from 3.8-3.9v per cell everytime this happened and I pulled the truck from the track. Not sure how much mah went back into the batteries when charged back up I guess I didn't really look.
Everytime I put a fully charged battery in the truck it would run just fine for about 5 min until the constant reboots would happen. Especially at the end of the long straight and braking hard into the corner.
Neither thermal overload or LVC should have the ESC rebooting, they would just have blinking lights. I think the problem may lie elswhere as in a connection, or the servo browning out the RX momentarily, which can happen so quick you never lose steering but the ESC has to reboot. personally, I cut every ESC swithch off and solder the wires together before even installing. I'm curious what your cell voltages are when you pull it off after this, also how many mah you're putting back in when charging.....
I dont know if RX8 esc has a power switch that is seperate from a programming switch into the esc. I know my Hobbywing and Novak esc you cant cut the switch off because its to program the esc also.
Neither thermal overload or LVC should have the ESC rebooting, they would just have blinking lights. I think the problem may lie elswhere as in a connection, or the servo browning out the RX momentarily, which can happen so quick you never lose steering but the ESC has to reboot. personally, I cut every ESC swithch off and solder the wires together before even installing. I'm curious what your cell voltages are when you pull it off after this, also how many mah you're putting back in when charging.....
Battery voltage was anywhere from 3.8-3.9v per cell everytime this happened and I pulled the truck from the track. Not sure how much mah went back into the batteries when charged back up I guess I didn't really look.
Everytime I put a fully charged battery in the truck it would run just fine for about 5 min until the constant reboots would happen. Especially at the end of the long straight and braking hard into the corner.
Everytime I put a fully charged battery in the truck it would run just fine for about 5 min until the constant reboots would happen. Especially at the end of the long straight and braking hard into the corner.
Rx8 is programmed thru either the port on the side of the case or through the RX lead.
Its not thermal. The motor is warm to the touch, not hot, and the esc is plenty cool
Should be. It was a running change about 7-8 months ago.
remember that when we pulled it off and connected a cell checker to the balance tap, voltage dropped to 3.6V and that was just revving the truck with no load. Hitting the brakes at the end of the straight pulls a lot of amps as does accelerating coming onto the straight, so its a high amp draw right after another. Im guessing the battery is getting low and cant supply the voltage thru the BEC with the spectrum RX and Savox servo.
Rx8 is programmed thru either the port on the side of the case or through the RX lead.
Should be. It was a running change about 7-8 months ago.
remember that when we pulled it off and connected a cell checker to the balance tap, voltage dropped to 3.6V and that was just revving the truck with no load. Hitting the brakes at the end of the straight pulls a lot of amps as does accelerating coming onto the straight, so its a high amp draw right after another. Im guessing the battery is getting low and cant supply the voltage thru the BEC with the spectrum RX and Savox servo.
Rx8 is programmed thru either the port on the side of the case or through the RX lead.
Have you ran yours yet long enough until your battery gets low? Wouldn't it do the same thing to you except only take longer than 5min since it's a bigger battery?
No, LVC cuts throttle for a second (which you may be coasting for at that point) and then leaves you with about five or ten percent power to limp off the track.
That is what I thought... which makes me completely stumped why mine is doing this. If it was my voltage dropping so low it should go into lvc mode... not completely shut down and restart the ESC.. But it starts doing this about 5 min into my run and will first happen at the end of the long straightaway and after i slam on the brakes which like mentioned, is a huge amp draw on the battery.... So it sounds like a voltage issue... but it cant be.. because no lvc... haha man im lost.
That is what I thought... which makes me completely stumped why mine is doing this. If it was my voltage dropping so low it should go into lvc mode... not completely shut down and restart the ESC.. But it starts doing this about 5 min into my run and will first happen at the end of the long straightaway and after i slam on the brakes which like mentioned, is a huge amp draw on the battery.... So it sounds like a voltage issue... but it cant be.. because no lvc... haha man im lost.
Ya, They gave me a RA number today so I can send it in for them to look at.
It sucks knowing ill have to wait a couple weeks until I can drive this thing again.
Im going to the track again tomorrow to try a couple things. For Example, as soon as the ESC shuts down and restarts im going to pull it from the track quickly and put in my other fully charged battery and see what happens. If it runs fine for another 5 or so min and then does it again ill know its obvously a voltage issue... But if it does it much sooner than that It is most likely a heat issue inside the ESC and its causing it to shut down and restart. (Even though the ESC is hardly warm at all on the outside)
It sucks knowing ill have to wait a couple weeks until I can drive this thing again.
Im going to the track again tomorrow to try a couple things. For Example, as soon as the ESC shuts down and restarts im going to pull it from the track quickly and put in my other fully charged battery and see what happens. If it runs fine for another 5 or so min and then does it again ill know its obvously a voltage issue... But if it does it much sooner than that It is most likely a heat issue inside the ESC and its causing it to shut down and restart. (Even though the ESC is hardly warm at all on the outside)
Ya, They gave me a RA number today so I can send it in for them to look at.
It sucks knowing ill have to wait a couple weeks until I can drive this thing again.
Im going to the track again tomorrow to try a couple things. For Example, as soon as the ESC shuts down and restarts im going to pull it from the track quickly and put in my other fully charged battery and see what happens. If it runs fine for another 5 or so min and then does it again ill know its obvously a voltage issue... But if it does it much sooner than that It is most likely a heat issue inside the ESC and its causing it to shut down and restart. (Even though the ESC is hardly warm at all on the outside)
It sucks knowing ill have to wait a couple weeks until I can drive this thing again.
Im going to the track again tomorrow to try a couple things. For Example, as soon as the ESC shuts down and restarts im going to pull it from the track quickly and put in my other fully charged battery and see what happens. If it runs fine for another 5 or so min and then does it again ill know its obvously a voltage issue... But if it does it much sooner than that It is most likely a heat issue inside the ESC and its causing it to shut down and restart. (Even though the ESC is hardly warm at all on the outside)
What gearing and motor are you running and is this indoors or outdoors? Did you try setting the bec to the higher voltage?



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