got it all completed just now waiting on weather to break about 3 more weeks till outdoor season starts

yep! you beat me to it! How good of a solder guy is he? Cold solder joint very possible! ALSO, if he is running Deans connector, it couldve gotten too hot during soldering and is not keeping good contact! I put Castle bullets on my SC 4wd's and my 1/8 scales no problems EVER! I heard Older Rx8's used to shut off after a flat landing then turn back on!
changed your plugs! Drive on!

If the deans plug is not loose on the contacts it won't cause a issue . Just set the cutoff at 3.0v or you have a bad solder joint somewhere .


Kslimm: I would race it at SJ a few times to get used to it with the ground so wet outdoors don't think it will be dry intill April.

thanks for the reply. i guess i was getting confused because of the mention of a 1 screw only setup. that doesnt exist right? also , does the sct410 with the closed ended slot have the brake mounts from the buggy on it or is there an specific updated sct mount? im asking because one way or another im 99% sure im ordering a new mount to either freshen it up or get an updated one because the one i have now lets the motor rock to much when trying to set mesh. just want to be certain im getting the correct parts .

This was actually the first thing I tried on Saturday. I'm not a good at soldering so I thought maybe that was it. There was a guy at the track that re soldered everything for me while I was there. Truck did the same thing. Like mentioned, it happens at about the 5 min mark on a full charged battery. Then it will keep doing it every 20-30 seconds or so. Each time it resets the truck still runs strong. Doesn't have a noticeable decline is power use to low battery or anything. ESC is warm, motor is warm. Not hot.

What I didn't try, and I wish I would have. I didn't think of it at the time. Since I have 2 batteries. As soon as the issue started, I should swapped in the other pack quickly and went back on the track. That way I would know for sure if it's a battery issue. If it would go another 5 min or so until it starts acting up it's obviously the battery voltage. If it continued to shut down then it is most likely a heat issue somewhere. Most likely inside the ESC. Probably once it gets warm maybe there's a poor solder spot on the circuit board or something. Ill try this as well on Wednesday when I'm back at the track.

So im rebuilding my truck today and quite surprised by more than a few things. First off a lil truck history. I bought this truck used from a buddy back in early August of last yr. He had bought it used from a guy that said he only ran it once. Anyhow, it had approximatley 9 race days on it by the time I purchased. I only ran it 5-6 times up until I found my way onto the Team. This truck has been raced twice a week ( missing only 3 Wednesdays) since October. I am now replacing a couple of bearings and the CVD's simple because I feel guilty. Ya, ive replaced the center and rear drive pins before but I honestly now have a bag full of GOOD USED PARTS.. This is seriously amazing to me because when I ran the losi truck it was a ritual once a month thing to buy and replace all CVDs and usally a bearing or 2 along with some warped arms and not to mention the countless shock seals.
So basically I am only reiterating what most already know, but its nice to see the quality that TEKNO RC has put into the products we race.
Thanks again TEKNO RC for your fantastic product.

This is a small running change on newer SCT and EB kits. If you want to guarantee that you get a closed slot mount, order TKR5210 from www.teknorc.com. The parts are filtering through the channels.

I had a new viper ESC doing the same thing. Ended up finding bad battery connection momentarily killing power. Thats why I had steering but no motor. The ESC was rebooting.

So the difference is the closed slot leaves more material on that guide to help keep the the plate from wobbling? Mine had slop from new, I pulled the motor to look at the guide as another person or two a number of pages back said the thin rails can get tweaked but its still straight and just like it was when new.
I would definitely pick up the updated part if it would get rid of the slop and hold the motor straight without relying on the fasteners... like little to no lateral motor movement.

I don't say this as a dig on your part but if you want I can send the Elite RC mount from my Mugen SCT for you guys to look at. That is by far the best motor mount I have used. Completely locked in without any tension on the screw (1 screw). And has never budged from its setting even with only one screw to fasten it.
The Mugen has been in the shelf since I got this kit

What he said
And there is no one screw only motor mount.

All my Tekno stuff up for sale check it out. SCT new in box and my used one with buggy chassis included with Hobbywing system etc. in the for sale section

My 410 was a first batch rig, I've been bragging that mine have been run every single weekend for over a year without a single part failure. I always take my highly upgraded scte with me to the track in case my 410 breaks. Well it finally happened big time. I was racing on a real nice med size indoor track and got bumped coming off of a small jump at good speed and hit one of the steel poles that help support the building. You hear that loud bing every once in a while. After hitting the pole hard I was able to finish the race but my 410 wasn't handling correctly but I did finish. I broke the aluminum front suspension pin holder in half, the pin tore almost all of the way out of the arm. Any way after a whole year of racing and tons of practice laps I finally had to spend a few bucks. The funny part when I first purchased the 410 kit I started buying spare parts. I have almost every thing other than a set of front arms, I have a set but turns out they're for me eb. Bottom line after one year of hard practice and racing I finally broke less than $50 worth of parts. Not bad I'd say. If I hadn't got bumped into a BIG steel pole I'd still be running my stock kit. LOL I've been so happy since I switched from Caster to Tekno. I never finished an A main with my Caster rigs, always finish with Tekno. With that said, Tekno get busy I have all your E rigs you need to build a 1/10 4x4 mod buggy to compete with the new Hot Bodies buggy. Should bring the class back to life. I can't afford to rebuild my Kyosho every month.....

If you need a glitch buster, then something is wrong with the bec. A gen2 with added voltage should never need a glitch buster.

Thats awesome man, I feel the same especially about that wheeler.......please.......