17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
03-09-2014 | 08:27 PM
i wanted to bring this conversation back up.. the one that only screws in from the top are you guys meaning the part the screws to the motor or the diff mount? because both diff mounts ive seen have a slot for a bottom screw. what am i missing ? my diff mount has the sloted bottom side thats open on the end and it gets a screw from the top and the bottom.
03-09-2014 | 08:27 PM
Just wanted to thank TEKNO for a great truck and everyone on this post for the valuable information!
At A Main Hobbies 5th annual Outback Shootout race last weekend (2/28/2014 - 3/2/2014), I ended up taking TQ and the A-Main WIN in Open 4WD Short Course!!
Here is a link to the video of the Open 4WD SC A-Main: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unOS8JSPs_8
The truck starting in 2nd (white body with orange flames), the truck starting in 7th (all metallic blue body with yellow wheels), and the truck starting in 9th (white body with blue flames and yellow wheels) are also TEKNO SCT410s.
Attached is a pic of the results sheet, the podium picture, and the setup I ran for this event! Both the ride height and rear droop are lower than I typically run this truck, but Outback Raceway is EXTREMELY high bite for an indoor clay track, and I needed to do this to prevent the truck from traction rolling when pushed.
At A Main Hobbies 5th annual Outback Shootout race last weekend (2/28/2014 - 3/2/2014), I ended up taking TQ and the A-Main WIN in Open 4WD Short Course!!
Here is a link to the video of the Open 4WD SC A-Main: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unOS8JSPs_8
The truck starting in 2nd (white body with orange flames), the truck starting in 7th (all metallic blue body with yellow wheels), and the truck starting in 9th (white body with blue flames and yellow wheels) are also TEKNO SCT410s.
Attached is a pic of the results sheet, the podium picture, and the setup I ran for this event! Both the ride height and rear droop are lower than I typically run this truck, but Outback Raceway is EXTREMELY high bite for an indoor clay track, and I needed to do this to prevent the truck from traction rolling when pushed.
03-09-2014 | 10:52 PM
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5210x...zed-lightened/
and this with the 2 sets of holes
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5211-...etal-anodized/
it might just be worn, but its definitly lose and pain to set mesh,
03-09-2014 | 11:32 PM
i wanted to bring this conversation back up.. the one that only screws in from the top are you guys meaning the part the screws to the motor or the diff mount? because both diff mounts ive seen have a slot for a bottom screw. what am i missing ? my diff mount has the sloted bottom side thats open on the end and it gets a screw from the top and the bottom.
no sir, it looks like this one.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5210x...zed-lightened/
and this with the 2 sets of holes
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5211-...etal-anodized/
it might just be worn, but its definitly lose and pain to set mesh,
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5210x...zed-lightened/
and this with the 2 sets of holes
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5211-...etal-anodized/
it might just be worn, but its definitly lose and pain to set mesh,
Here's a pic of the newer style bottom slot-
03-10-2014 | 12:26 AM
All of the motor mounts have 2 screw hole/slots for attaching the motor mount insert, one on the top and one on the bottom. The older versions of 5210 and 5210x had an open ended bottom screw slot to allow the bottom screw to just be loosened to pull the motor whereas the newer, updated versions have a closed off slot where you'll need to completely remove the bottom screw to pull the motor.
Here's a pic of the newer style bottom slot-
Here's a pic of the newer style bottom slot-
03-10-2014 | 12:42 AM
There's now a hole in the mudguard big enough to allow the screw to be completely removed.
03-10-2014 | 03:01 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 426
From: Mendota,IL
Just got my sct410 built and one race day in. This trucks is awesome. I won the a the first time out with it. Few setup things I'm having trouble with. The front ride hight is high and I have the adjusters all the way up. It's sits at about 28. And Is real springy in the front. Someone suggested shock limiters in the shocks but I don't know much about em and I thought that's what droop screws did. It's still all stock just looking to get the front lower and not so bouncy. Shocks are inside hole on tower and top outside hole on the arm. Tried to put it in the bottom hole but it wouldn't fit right.
03-10-2014 | 03:27 AM
Just got my sct410 built and one race day in. This trucks is awesome. I won the a the first time out with it. Few setup things I'm having trouble with. The front ride hight is high and I have the adjusters all the way up. It's sits at about 28. And Is real springy in the front. Someone suggested shock limiters in the shocks but I don't know much about em and I thought that's what droop screws did. It's still all stock just looking to get the front lower and not so bouncy. Shocks are inside hole on tower and top outside hole on the arm. Tried to put it in the bottom hole but it wouldn't fit right.
1. You don't have the rod ends screwed all the way down on the shock shaft. There
tight and its easy to leave em 2-3mm out.
2. The Orings have lodged between the spring cups and rod end. The Orings
should ride on the shaft above the spring cup.
As far as the front being bouncy how much rebound did you build into them?
03-10-2014 | 03:33 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 426
From: Mendota,IL
Two things could be wrong with your ride height.
1. You don't have the rod ends screwed all the way down on the shock shaft. There
tight and its easy to leave em 2-3mm out.
2. The Orings have lodged between the spring cups and rod end. The Orings
should ride on the shaft above the spring cup.
As far as the front being bouncy how much rebound did you build into them?
1. You don't have the rod ends screwed all the way down on the shock shaft. There
tight and its easy to leave em 2-3mm out.
2. The Orings have lodged between the spring cups and rod end. The Orings
should ride on the shaft above the spring cup.
As far as the front being bouncy how much rebound did you build into them?
03-10-2014 | 03:51 AM
but will have the most reactive feel on the track. Vented bladder next and
the emulsion build will feel the laziest but the most plush. Keep working with
them, its more important that you get them equal at this point until you get
more comfortable building them. Eventually you will get the hang bleeding them
down to 0 rebound. Here is how i do mine.
Screw the cap down until fluid starts out the bleed hole.
While holding the shock in your left hand and a rag in the right use the bench
to collapse the shock fully.
Wipe off excess oil that comes out the bleeder hole.
Now with you right hand grab the entire lower section of the shock and screw
it into the cap Hold the whole thing at about a 30deg angle with the bleeder
hole upwards.
Once the cap is semi tight let go of the shaft and check rebound. If its still
to much grab it again with your right hand and crack the cap back open a thread or two and vent more fluid.
Keep doing this until you get the rebound you want and both are equal.
03-10-2014 | 07:18 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 193
From: Columbus, IN
LoL @ magical pistons. Everyone's sct410 is unique. I don't think there is a "cookie cutter" or generic setup that will work for everyone. Each setup should compliment a racers individual driving style. My truck is dialed now for clay tracks in FL but I would love to swap radios with ya at the track to compare setups.
Do you run on indoor or outdoor tracks?
Do you run on indoor or outdoor tracks?
03-10-2014 | 07:27 AM
Resolder everything, "change your plugs", probably not the switch but could be, if you still think its the switch remove it and solder the wires together, and see if that does it.
If after that your still having issues I'm betting there is a bad solder joint inside the ESC. You might have gotten the lugs too hot and messed up a joint inside.
Hope this helps
Randy