Tekno SCT410 Thread
The broken axle issue hasn't been in this thread for a long time. You broke replacement axles? Or the ones that came in the kit?
When & where did you get your kit?
Did it come with black front & pink rear springs?
Yes, the aluminum 1/8 hex conversion will put it at buggy width. The plastic 17mm hex wouldn't help with your issue and those break within a couple laps.
When & where did you get your kit?
Did it come with black front & pink rear springs?
Yes, the aluminum 1/8 hex conversion will put it at buggy width. The plastic 17mm hex wouldn't help with your issue and those break within a couple laps.
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Would settings the BEC to 7.4 instead of 6.0 have any benefit? Mine set at the factory 6.0. Im just trying to pin point anything I can to fix this issue.
btw, I did the reset on the ESC. I just dont see why it wouldnt just go into lvc mode if the voltage drops so low instead of just shutting off and restarting. Its just so weird.
btw, I did the reset on the ESC. I just dont see why it wouldnt just go into lvc mode if the voltage drops so low instead of just shutting off and restarting. Its just so weird.
2 things, they can brown out and still have a servo work, I had it happen. But I think it may be a battery issue also. Gotta remember that a 50c 5000 battery does NOT deliver the same as 50c 7200 pack as its all relative to overall battery power. I personally would do both. get a glitch buster and a better/bigger battery. Any chance you could borrow a better battery from another racer to test?
Another FYI. I had brown outs when I used older spektrum 300 series receivers but have never had it happen since I went to sr3001 or better dsm2 receivers
Last edited by sickpuppy1; 03-09-2014 at 05:11 PM. Reason: spelling
Ill be back Wed. night as well. I have a 7200 in my truck at the track. Throw it in your truck and see if it still does it.
Sounds good man. Do you run your truck until the lvc kicks in? I feel like A bigger battery would just give me more run time until it starts shutting down and restarting like its doing now. Right? Or maybe my battery just cant handle the amps being taken from it once it gets around half way drained?
Hey guys I have a problem with my gen 2. I posted this same thing in the RX8 thread but figured id do it here too since a lot of you guys run similar set up. It's brand new. Hooked up to a HD4300 motor in my tekno sct 410. I'm using brand new Smc 5000mah batteries. I get about 5 min run time until the ESC will shut down and restart every 30 seconds. I'll have no power, only steering. Once the ESC resets the truck will run just fine again for about 30 seconds and it will cut power and restart again. I know this because one of the guys was standing by the corner of the track when it happens and he hears the ESC restarting. Any ideas why this is happening? I check my batteries right after this happens and they are around 3.8v per cell still.
that you may get lucky. Brown outs and LVC cuts dont cause the ESC to restart.
Either that LiPo is so bad that its dropping below the minimum voltage
to keep the ESC on or your switch/ESC is bad.
Just a thought here...Do you balance your batteries often? Only reason I ask is if you have one cell thats going bad it may show up then. In other words, if one cell is weak and cant take a load it may drop out and THAT would cause a ESC to restart....
Back to bladder build with fioronis. Way more consistent. Ran emulsion for so long I've decided to go back and try it due to it being inconsistent after a few runs, and man I was right!! It felt sooooooo good!!
Just wanted to thank TEKNO for a great truck and everyone on this post for the valuable information!
At A Main Hobbies 5th annual Outback Shootout race last weekend (2/28/2014 - 3/2/2014), I ended up taking TQ and the A-Main WIN in Open 4WD Short Course!!
Here is a link to the video of the Open 4WD SC A-Main: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unOS8JSPs_8
The truck starting in 2nd (white body with orange flames), the truck starting in 7th (all metallic blue body with yellow wheels), and the truck starting in 9th (white body with blue flames and yellow wheels) are also TEKNO SCT410s.
Attached is a pic of the results sheet, the podium picture, and the setup I ran for this event! Both the ride height and rear droop are lower than I typically run this truck, but Outback Raceway is EXTREMELY high bite for an indoor clay track, and I needed to do this to prevent the truck from traction rolling when pushed.
At A Main Hobbies 5th annual Outback Shootout race last weekend (2/28/2014 - 3/2/2014), I ended up taking TQ and the A-Main WIN in Open 4WD Short Course!!
Here is a link to the video of the Open 4WD SC A-Main: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unOS8JSPs_8
The truck starting in 2nd (white body with orange flames), the truck starting in 7th (all metallic blue body with yellow wheels), and the truck starting in 9th (white body with blue flames and yellow wheels) are also TEKNO SCT410s.
Attached is a pic of the results sheet, the podium picture, and the setup I ran for this event! Both the ride height and rear droop are lower than I typically run this truck, but Outback Raceway is EXTREMELY high bite for an indoor clay track, and I needed to do this to prevent the truck from traction rolling when pushed.
2 things, they can brown out and still have a servo work, I had it happen. But I think it may be a battery issue also. Gotta remember that a 50c 5000 battery does NOT deliver the same as 50c 7200 pack as its all relative to overall battery power. I personally would do both. get a glitch buster and a better/bigger battery. Any chance you could borrow a better battery from another racer to test?
i wanted to bring this conversation back up.. the one that only screws in from the top are you guys meaning the part the screws to the motor or the diff mount? because both diff mounts ive seen have a slot for a bottom screw. what am i missing ? my diff mount has the sloted bottom side thats open on the end and it gets a screw from the top and the bottom.



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