Schumacher Supastox and Mardave EV12.

its a class that has revived 1/12th pan car racing in the Uk.At the moment there is 2 manufacturers in the class Schumacher and Mardave .Car costs under £100 with in the rules
13.5 blinky 1s racing .

Some great coverage of that race here as well: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdNGD_pnOTU

when one talks of "double steering" what exactly are they describing and how do you fix that?

Double steering is when you enter the corner hard the car starts to turn in nicely and then starts to push mid corner and then turns harder at the exit. Since we take corners soo fast it appears as a wiggle during the corner.

Easiest solution is to go heavier on the damper tube to slow the transition in the corner.


since the fluid is too loose for that corner the twisting actions happens too fast and the springs throw the pod back straight before coming back creating an oscillation. Thickening the damper tubs slows this action down allowing the springs to catch the weight of the car without over compressing and causing the "Double Steer"

but if go too far, inside rear tires will lift in tight corners.

GT12 was introduced as an entry level pan car class suitable for club and regional level racing in the UK. The cars are of simple design - flat GRP chassis, simple suspension, a price limit of £100 (about $150) on a rolling chassis kit and limited modifications/upgrades. They use GT style bodies (Ferrari F430 and the like), a ball diff and run on foam tyres (26mm width front & rear) with 13.5 motors, 1S batteries and 'blinky' speedos.

Schumacher and Mardave both market cars for the class.

It has literally exploded and is hugely popular in the UK. Lots of drivers have moved over to it from electric tc's and buggies for their winter indoor racing as it's a much cheaper, simpler alternative. Several clubs have also reported to me that GT12 has 'saved' their club from going under as it has enabled their members to continue racing despite the poor economic climate.

The class has existed for about 2 years at national level competitions, and just recently we have started to get a few drivers migrate over to racing 'proper' 1/12 scale (what we call LMP12) having run GT12 for a while.

10-12 years ago you'd be lucky to get 50 drivers to a BRCA 1/12 national. This season all 6 of our nationals have been over-subscribed (110 drivers at each - 80 LMP12 and 30 GT12) and we've had to introduce reserve lists for most of the classes.

We're having a blast!

That's a perfect example that one doesn't need much technology or complication to have fun!

Does the GT12 class run spec tires, or perhaps a limited number of allowed compounds?

Thanks for the explanation!

We run either Contact or Mardave tyres.

Once you have sorted the tyres that work then rather like 12th you only need a few in the box. I use Contact 40 shore rear and 50 shore front almost everywhere, with 37 rears if the grip is low. They wear like iron and cost about £7 ($10) a pair or less. I've had four sets for this season and they have worn about 0.6mm off in 30 races rotating them around. Once you find a set-up very little needs changing to suit different tracks.

The simple suspension design limits grip and the weight (950g) slows it all down so everyone can drive one. Like all RC classes, if you can drive you can win. You can put a car on the track for half the cost of a 12th car and still have something that will put you where your driving skills deserves. As Mark says, it has 'saved' many clubs, and larger meetings for the class attract about 50 to 60 drivers.

It's great class that makes the most of the reliability of LiPos and BL motors, whilst giving people a car to race that looks like the real thing and handles in a way that everyone can adapt to whatever class they run in the summer.

In general, what are some things I can do to increase straight line stability (reduce dartiness around neutral) in low grip (unprepared) asphalt conditions?

I would recommend adjusting your front end to have bump toe-out by angling the ends of the links up with shims or finding a way to lower the mounting point at your servo. If that doesn't work, going to a stiffer, less aggressive front end while saucing more of the front tire to keep steering may help.

Not all cars will react the same to changes, though.

What's the reasoning behind running negative steering exponential?

Under what conditions should it be negative and positive?

Also, I'm kinda lost with tire selection for asphalt and carpet for 21.5 blinky.

What's a good starting point for both of these surfaces?

Cheers.

Negative Exop on the steering reduces the amount the tires turn in the center .

Zero Expo means if you move the wheel 25% of it's travel the servo will move 25% of it's set throw (depending on your epa settings) and for 50% it will go 50% of its throw and 75% is 75% of throw right up to 100%

Now adding expo (negative) as you first start to turn there is less servo travel than wheel so the first 10% might only be 2% on the servo (depending on how much expo you want) then to 25% where you may get 10% throw and say 50% you get 35% and at 75% you are at 70% throw and at 100% you still get 100% throw

for positive it's the other way where a little movement of the wheel makes a larger movement at the servo but it still only can go 100%

Hello, I've just started running a Mardave ac12 in 13.5T blinky 1S class. I'm wondering what peoples recommendations would be in terms of the best performing 1S lipo packs?

I hear LRP 6900 do not fade as much as the Reedy 7000 and these are both readily available from my club shop. I just purchased turnigy nanotech 5600's having tried my friends the week before only to find the performance to be very poor with the cells I have received (new from Hobbyking), poor punch and top end.

Any thoughts on if these are a duff batch? I've heard cycling them may help and have requested an RMA from Hobbyking, though not sure if they will give me a full refund.

Any help appreciated, thanks

Trinity revtech 7100 mah 100c with 5mm bulletts is what I use.
No fading.