Tekno SCT410 Thread
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 18
From: NW PA
Guys, does the new build manual show less orings on the outside of the shock, on the shaft, due to the extended plastic guide within the shock?
I got the newer shock shaft guides and I seem to remember seeing in the newer manuals that less orings are required. I can't find any of the new manuals anywhere online.
Thanks!
I got the newer shock shaft guides and I seem to remember seeing in the newer manuals that less orings are required. I can't find any of the new manuals anywhere online.
Thanks!
[QUOTE=rvinvents;13011083]
Sorry... $40. They are out of stock right now.
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6445
You got it right. Zero to two orings with the newer caps. Don't hear many running more than zero but I'm sure some people do. Very high bite smooth to help avoid traction rolls, everything else I would think zero... never tried any limiting, tune is all good with full uptravel for me.
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=6445
Guys, does the new build manual show less orings on the outside of the shock, on the shaft, due to the extended plastic guide within the shock?
I got the newer shock shaft guides and I seem to remember seeing in the newer manuals that less orings are required. I can't find any of the new manuals anywhere online.
Thanks!
I got the newer shock shaft guides and I seem to remember seeing in the newer manuals that less orings are required. I can't find any of the new manuals anywhere online.
Thanks!
I think tc5 is still running 4 (6 by old cap standards) which is why I brought that post back up a few pages. Didn't see any indication that was getting changed. I don't think its possible no matter what you do to build emulsion correctly with that many orings.
Not to mention the setup issus.
Not to mention the setup issus.
No I did take the 4 o rings off the shocks . It took me a few times or so to get the oil to bleed out the hole I did lean the shock to get it to cone out .
My local hobby store has decided to start running offroad on their carpet track. They spent the week building what they had time for and opened it up for some offroad practice today. I brought my Tekno to try out. Only thing I changed was to put on some worn JC 3d's in blue. We had a lot of fun today for sure and the Tekno was a blast.
I don't think we'll run these on race day since it may be a safety hazard once they get the jumps they are planning on built.
| + YouTube Video | |
I don't think we'll run these on race day since it may be a safety hazard once they get the jumps they are planning on built.
Last edited by Bernard_Jr; 02-15-2014 at 10:00 PM.
No problem.
So you had pink front / yellow rear that's a 1.26 spread between the rates (3.83/2.57).
Now going to green rear you have a 1.4 spread (3.83/2.43), better?
I would be curious to hear if anyone at your track runs Tekno and has a green front spring that you can try for a run to get you to a 1.7 spread (4.15/2.43) if that improves the handling.
Just my own experience from trying many spring combos, choose a rate that's high or low, that's personal preference and track dependent... but keeping a 1.7 in/lb spread between them is a good spring balance. IMO.
So you had pink front / yellow rear that's a 1.26 spread between the rates (3.83/2.57).
Now going to green rear you have a 1.4 spread (3.83/2.43), better?
I would be curious to hear if anyone at your track runs Tekno and has a green front spring that you can try for a run to get you to a 1.7 spread (4.15/2.43) if that improves the handling.
Just my own experience from trying many spring combos, choose a rate that's high or low, that's personal preference and track dependent... but keeping a 1.7 in/lb spread between them is a good spring balance. IMO.
I am going to order more springs just to play with medium and high rates. I'm pretty happy the low rate right now, but like you said, I might end up liking a higher rate. And it's fun to experiment. And it's nice to have parts in the arsenal.
You got it right. Zero to two orings with the newer caps. Don't hear many running more than zero but I'm sure some people do. Very high bite smooth to help avoid traction rolls, everything else I would think zero... never tried any limiting, tune is all good with full uptravel for me.
You can do the same thing with droop screws also, lose some up travel, or lose some down travel, you can also change roll centers. Couple different was to go about it, there's always a trade off, just gotta find which trade off leaves you with the best overall handling around the track.
Glad the spring tuning helped

Did you get to try a green front with the green rear?
Opposite, the orings will limit how far the truck can roll over in a turn keeping it a little flatter.
You can do the same thing with droop screws also, lose some up travel, or lose some down travel, you can also change roll centers. Couple different was to go about it, there's always a trade off, just gotta find which trade off leaves you with the best overall handling around the track.
Glad the spring tuning helped
Did you get to try a green front with the green rear?
You can do the same thing with droop screws also, lose some up travel, or lose some down travel, you can also change roll centers. Couple different was to go about it, there's always a trade off, just gotta find which trade off leaves you with the best overall handling around the track.
Glad the spring tuning helped

Did you get to try a green front with the green rear?
I was thinking of getting a similar spring in another brand though (as Tekno parts are hard to come by here), just to get the testing done today.
Droop screws for my truck... screwed out and just barely making contact so the chassis doesn't wear out the control arms.
Roll center... skimmed through the Hudy guide, need to take the time to read it, understand it, and test and tune with it.
The spring tuning really seemed to help with traction roll too. I didn't suffer nearly as bad as I have.
Don't remember if you saw this link or not but if your track has Losi or HB buggy parts they both have springs that are close to the green. HB grey & Losi red.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...ring-chart.jpg
Edit, I see what your saying about the control arm wear. Many changes can be made with those like limiting how much the front nose dives under braking, how far your front end will allow itself to lift keeping more weight on the tires to get power to the ground while exiting a turn. Left/right roll... a good tool to use.
But for now keep it simple and one thing at a time to improve your tune
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...ring-chart.jpg
Edit, I see what your saying about the control arm wear. Many changes can be made with those like limiting how much the front nose dives under braking, how far your front end will allow itself to lift keeping more weight on the tires to get power to the ground while exiting a turn. Left/right roll... a good tool to use.
But for now keep it simple and one thing at a time to improve your tune
Don't remember if you saw this link or not but if your track has Losi or HB buggy parts they both have springs that are close to the green. HB grey & Losi red.
The only thing that will wear from using the droop screws is the ears on the chassis that the screw sits on and that will slowly sear over time. Many changes can be made with those like limiting how much the front nose dives under braking, how far your front end will allow itself to lift keeping more weight on the tires to get power to the ground while exiting a turn. Left/right roll... a good tool to use.
But for now keep it simple and one thing at a time to improve your tune
The only thing that will wear from using the droop screws is the ears on the chassis that the screw sits on and that will slowly sear over time. Many changes can be made with those like limiting how much the front nose dives under braking, how far your front end will allow itself to lift keeping more weight on the tires to get power to the ground while exiting a turn. Left/right roll... a good tool to use.
But for now keep it simple and one thing at a time to improve your tune

I will experiment with the droop screws today. That's an easy one to work with.
My local hobby store has decided to start running offroad on their carpet track. They spent the week building what they had time for and opened it up for some offroad practice today. I brought my Tekno to try out. Only thing I changed was to put on some worn JC 3d's in blue. We had a lot of fun today for sure and the Tekno was a blast.
I don't think we'll run these on race day since it may be a safety hazard once they get the jumps they are planning on built.
I don't think we'll run these on race day since it may be a safety hazard once they get the jumps they are planning on built.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 609
From: oakdale,new york
i ordered a set of the rcshox pistons as well,had them in my sc10 4x4 and they worked well. i wanted the fiornis but they never seem to be in stock.
also my side air dams have seen better days so i cut new ones out of some thin diamond plate i picked up from rc4wd, they look great and don't weigh any more then the plastic [at least they don't feel any heavier,lol] they do look great...
also my side air dams have seen better days so i cut new ones out of some thin diamond plate i picked up from rc4wd, they look great and don't weigh any more then the plastic [at least they don't feel any heavier,lol] they do look great...
[quote=rvinvents;13011083]
$38.00 Here, out of stock. Write them and ask when they will have more........
http://gshobby.com/content/fioroni-f...odiesgs-racing
http://gshobby.com/content/fioroni-f...odiesgs-racing



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