SCT tower is just stamped aluminum.

EB tower is milled from a stronger bigger piece.

The general go to piston is the 8x1.3. A neutral spring suggestion is green front & rear. Some like the overall stiffness higher than that, some like it a little stiffer in the rear. The springs are kind of all over the place depending on if they run indoor or outdoor, big jump, small jump.

Since you have the original box stock you should be running black front and pink rear.
Tekno pistons are $25, fioronis are $35. Spend the extra $10 on the fioronis.
If you are running smooth indoor like I am and you already have the pink rear spring...
Buy the Durango white/black front spring (TDR330413), fioroni's and some 27.5 & 22.5 wt oil. (I have gone back & forth on the rear oil, 22 & 20... leaning towards 20 now but 22's a safe place to start). Build the shocks emulsion zero rebound.

$35 pistons, $5 spring and you have the best setup for a smooth indoor track I have found yet (should be very good outdoor as well but can't attest to it).

That's my 2¢, maybe others will have piston & spring combos to share that work for them as well.

I thought about this and if you are still running 4 limiting orings with the new lower shock caps... that's why they are not bleeding any oil out the bleed hole.
The shaft is not allowed to push in far enough to disperse the oil out the cap.

Remove at least two orings to get down to the max suggested limiting and they should bleed correctly... better, run zero orings.

yes. EJ and i will be there. can't wait to run the new track. what tires are working on this truck?

Hey guys I finally got my HD 4300 in last night. I have no idea why I waited so long, after I hooked it I was shocked how much smoother it was over the Tenshock. I'm starting out with a 17t, I'm about to go test it in the street!

[QUOTE=fq06;13010600]I thought about this and if you are still running 4 limiting orings with the new lower shock caps... that's why they are not bleeding any oil out the bleed hole.
The shaft is not allowed to push in far enough to disperse the oil out the cap.

I have read that you have to put a little oil in the cap before you put it on also, along with overfilling the shock as much as possible, in order to have enough in there to displace the air......

[QUOTE=kevinpratt823;13010760]My technique:

With the bleed screw out, compress the shock fully. Put a drop of shock oil in the bleed hole until it is slightly overflowing. Pull the shock rod down slowly. Add more shock oil. Repeat until shock is fully extended.

This will give you a shock that is definitely overfilled. I let them sit with the bleed hole up for about ten minutes. Then slowly compress the shock all the way. Install bleed screw. Clean up mess. (I never said my technique was perfect) Cycle quickly a few times. Check rebound and listen for that telltale trapped air "squeak".

I was using gold Barcodes and liked the feel. The track is still settling so I would cautiously use super soft or green. In a week or two should be fine.

Thanks. That makes sense.

I think I'll go with my usual plan of taking weight out to minimize stress on electronics, modified as necessary for handling and durability. I've been running a modified Hyper 10sc the past few months. Curious to see how the two different generations of trucks drive back-to-back.

I agree Kevin & Razz, but I don't think any technique would work with 4 limiting orings AND the new lower cap & guide building emulsion.

On Thursday I changed oil in the rear shocks and just to test I did not put anything in the cap. Cap upside down to let residual oil fall out. Filled body to a crown and screwed the cap on.
Tons of oil came out without having to fill the cap and do the old quick flip and screw.

I don't think you can build the shocks with all of those limiters (4, not as Tekno intended) and not have air left in the shock.

Targeting it. I just have to make a weekend of it and with my wife working every other weekend, they weekends become premium. Timamybrown does he race at FTR?

On the cheap, the Kyosho 1.3mm x 8 hole pistons work well and are about $13 for a full set. That is what I use in both my eb48 and SCT410.

If the xrays work, they may be an even better deal as you get 3 sizes I believe for about the same price.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...x12-13-10x11-6

Well I certainly agree with not using 4 o-rings with the new caps, I'm pretty sure we were all pretty clear that it wasn't intended to be that way, not sure if he took that advice or not......I personally run 2 with the old caps.

Also, as far as Razbow's suggestion, I actually have a small syringe with a plastic needle tip for a CA glue bottle on it just for this purpose. For smaller shocks the needle tip actually seals itself inside the threaded hole and
when I draw the shaft down it pulls the oil out of the syringe by itself. It's great for a quick topoff instead of a complete refill, you can do it without even reomving the shock from the car.

I think tc5 is still running 4 (6 by old cap standards) which is why I brought that post back up a few pages. Didn't see any indication that was getting changed. I don't think its possible no matter what you do to build emulsion correctly with that many orings.
Not to mention the setup issus.

Going to run the new rev RCSHOX pistons. Had good success with them in the sc10

[QUOTE=fq06;13010576]
Tekno pistons are $25, fioronis are $35. Spend the extra $10 on the fioronis.

do you have a link for 35.00 fioronis?