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Old 02-08-2014 | 07:36 PM
  #1861  
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Hey guys I was able to get back out and try a few changes to the ET48. First I'd agree with others that the 10/15/5 should be the starting point. Thus truggy turned in over the e-buggy and SC on a very small tight track. To help lock the rear end in a little more the rear camber link is full short and low on the tower and 1 hole out on the hub with 1 degree of camber (Thanks Daniel). I'm thinking that 7 might be better in the rear diff over the 5 but I'll test that at Motorama.

Mark
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Old 02-08-2014 | 09:50 PM
  #1862  
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Originally Posted by munrath
Hey guys I was able to get back out and try a few changes to the ET48. First I'd agree with others that the 10/15/5 should be the starting point. Thus truggy turned in over the e-buggy and SC on a very small tight track. To help lock the rear end in a little more the rear camber link is full short and low on the tower and 1 hole out on the hub with 1 degree of camber (Thanks Daniel). I'm thinking that 7 might be better in the rear diff over the 5 but I'll test that at Motorama.

Mark
Mark basically you have come to the same conclusions as me I actually recently switched to 15/10/5 I tried 15/10/10 and 15/10/7 and found it to be too pushy
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Old 02-08-2014 | 10:20 PM
  #1863  
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Originally Posted by egobrkr
I agree. You don't need a bunch of spares. I would spend money on tuning parts like springs, pistons, oils and tires. I have a ton of tekno parts that just sit. The two things I would say to get are a spare set of shock shafts and a set of hing pins. Thats about it.
I'd get a front shock tower too. Three guys at our local track have broken a-arms and in all three cases it wiped out the shock tower too.
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Old 02-08-2014 | 11:55 PM
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With a 2000kv t8 4s lipo and 15t what speeds are you guys getting?
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Old 02-09-2014 | 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by metoo
Thanks, but I never said/implied anything about play. I was just trying to find the best way to remove the center diff.

I was looking at sliding the shaft coupler off the rear diff pinion in order to remove the rear center drive shaft. This would allow me to simply remove the rear center diff mount and slide the center diff our rearward. 5 screws total. However, the engagement length of coupler on the rear diff pinion shaft is longer than the space between coupler's slot bottom and the dog bone (rear center shaft). So it appears its a 9 screw effort, of which 3 have loctite.
My bad man, I under stand now what u was asking.
My truggy won't be here until Thursday. Sorry man.
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Old 02-09-2014 | 06:08 AM
  #1866  
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Originally Posted by metoo
Thanks, but I never said/implied anything about play. I was just trying to find the best way to remove the center diff.

I was looking at sliding the shaft coupler off the rear diff pinion in order to remove the rear center drive shaft. This would allow me to simply remove the rear center diff mount and slide the center diff our rearward. 5 screws total. However, the engagement length of coupler on the rear diff pinion shaft is longer than the space between coupler's slot bottom and the dog bone (rear center shaft). So it appears its a 9 screw effort, of which 3 have loctite.
Metoo - If you slide the motor out of the motor mount you can remove the center diff by removing the bottom 5 screws.

Mark
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Old 02-09-2014 | 06:17 AM
  #1867  
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Originally Posted by mamdot91
With a 2000kv t8 4s lipo and 15t what speeds are you guys getting?
Mamdot91 - It's not about speed in IMO but more about overall performance. If the motor feels good, pulls good, stays within temp and it's not tapping out half way down the straight then the overall speed of the vehicle doesn't really matter.

Mark
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Old 02-09-2014 | 07:53 AM
  #1868  
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Originally Posted by munrath
Metoo - If you slide the motor out of the motor mount you can remove the center diff by removing the bottom 5 screws.

Mark
I don't get it. The motor doesn't hinder removal of the center diff. As I see it, there is a 9 screw minimum effort:

2 mounting the center brace to chassis
3 mounting the motor mount to the chassis
2 mounting the rear diff stand to the chassis
2 mounting the diff cover to the rear diff stand

I'm not sure it you actually managed a 5 screw method, or just forgot about the diff cover and that the chassis brace which is attached as well. That's at least another 3 screws to deal with plus the 2 (for a total of 10) that your remove to get the motor out....which I still do not understand the benefit of. A step by step instruction would help me if you wouldn't mind typing it out.
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Old 02-09-2014 | 08:20 AM
  #1869  
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Originally Posted by mamdot91
With a 2000kv t8 4s lipo and 15t what speeds are you guys getting?
Real close to 40mph with med compound tires. The softer the compound the more they balloon. So super soft tires with that gear would be close too 43mph.
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Old 02-09-2014 | 08:54 AM
  #1870  
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Originally Posted by metoo
I don't get it. The motor doesn't hinder removal of the center diff. As I see it, there is a 9 screw minimum effort:

2 mounting the center brace to chassis
3 mounting the motor mount to the chassis
2 mounting the rear diff stand to the chassis
2 mounting the diff cover to the rear diff stand

I'm not sure it you actually managed a 5 screw method, or just forgot about the diff cover and that the chassis brace which is attached as well. That's at least another 3 screws to deal with plus the 2 (for a total of 10) that your remove to get the motor out....which I still do not understand the benefit of. A step by step instruction would help me if you wouldn't mind typing it out.
The 5 on the bottom holding the mount. The 4 holding the top plate and the rear and center braces if you still have them on. That should be it to get the diff out. I never took the motor off to do the center diff. I can make a video if you need it.
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Old 02-09-2014 | 02:08 PM
  #1871  
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Originally Posted by egobrkr
The 5 on the bottom holding the mount. The 4 holding the top plate and the rear and center braces if you still have them on. That should be it to get the diff out. I never took the motor off to do the center diff. I can make a video if you need it.
As mentioned several times in this thread by me and others, I hope tekno implements a split center diff assembly on the eb48.3
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Old 02-09-2014 | 03:07 PM
  #1872  
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Hey grim I see you are in Michigan. Me and scorpion are coming up march 8 to ams. Have you raced there? Whats the track like for tires?
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Old 02-09-2014 | 03:34 PM
  #1873  
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Originally Posted by egobrkr
Hey grim I see you are in Michigan. Me and scorpion are coming up march 8 to ams. Have you raced there? Whats the track like for tires?
egobrkr - AMS is simply awesome.

Mark
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Old 02-09-2014 | 03:45 PM
  #1874  
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Originally Posted by egobrkr
The 5 on the bottom holding the mount. The 4 holding the top plate and the rear and center braces if you still have them on. That should be it to get the diff out. I never took the motor off to do the center diff. I can make a video if you need it.
Nope, that's cool. Seems it's not less than 9 screws for you either, if using the center brace.
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Old 02-09-2014 | 03:49 PM
  #1875  
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SERVOS

Okay, so I found out withing 10 minutes that I made a bad choice in steering servo. There have been several postings of the servos you guys are using. My question is,.. What would you say is the minimum torque and minimum speed for truggy racing?
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