Surgetek, if it is slipping because of the center diff spring tension, you want to get that squared away pronto. Otherwise you may damage the diff balls/plates on your center diff.

Add possibly replacing the spur gear if the balls get too hot from slipping and enlarge the holes.

Just like any other ball diff, the C-Diff does need maintenance. It would be worth the effort to pull it apart clean & relube and reassemble to make sure it is correct.
Black grease on the thrust and clear diff grease on the balls.

Here's a walk through.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10600508-post878.html

I went to tighten/loosen the diff and it won't do either. Hold the spur and diff spins. I have to try again but I'm not sure what's up.

any way to see a vid of what is going on?

You have to at least hold the outer plate against the spur to hold it in place and tighten / loosen the nut. I have resorted to using pliers to hold the plate in order to get the spring tight enough for the spring coils to kiss each other... correct spring setting.

Surgetek, when you turn the diff nut the diff will start diff'ing out (one side will start spinning) and the nut just spins. What I do is put the rear tires on the table (so they don't turn, this will lock the outer plate. I then hold the spur in my hand and pinch the belt with my fingers which locks the inner plate. Then you should be able to tighten/loosen the nut without the diff slipping.

Just finished a new PL EVO body for my SC10 4x4. Some may not the looks, but I was more interested in performance. The EVO sits lower (low CG), has a lower sloping front end to reduce air that gets under the front end and it has larger wheel wells, which allows the body to sit lower and still clear the tires. It also has a bunch of vents so you can adjust airflow if you want.




Lots of tire clearance.

I finally got it apart last night and cleaned it, put two more pins in it, and tightened it down as much as I could.

I was wondering why I hadn't seen any responses, but I realized I unsubscribed to the thread. I haven't run it yet though.

You do not want or need to tighten it down as much as you can, you will bend the shaft and its just not needed. tighten it down until the coils "kiss" if you are still having slip issues than you need to replace the spring with a HD one.

I just did it finger tight and then a half turn more. It's not cranked down. I'll give it a try but also just order another spring.

BTW Sharks, I'm taking today at work to read your thread on RCSC.

Finger tight??? you cant compress the spring with your finger

Tighten the nut down until all of the coils are compressed and then back off 1/8 turn. If you continue to run it like you are you will destroy the spur gear due to heat.

Should there always be an even number of pins?

Just put a CDiff in I used 5.

Randy

Doesnt need to be even number, the pins do not weigh enough to throw balance off.

I think finger tight is a relative term.

Believe me, it's tight.

Mantisworx doesn't want you to toast your stuff so he is just wanting to make sure you are all setup right.

We all do!

Keep us informed, and if you can get some vid of your runs that would be cool to see too.