2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
01-27-2014 | 04:41 PM
01-27-2014 | 05:08 PM
01-27-2014 | 05:58 PM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,546
From: Northern VA
S.Tripp77 - You have that option with BCE. When you place the order there is a Notes/Comment section. Inform Bill that you want the stock LIPO position and the modified position. This way you can adjust the LIPO on the fly by taking out 6 screws and moving the battery back or keep it in the stock position. You can put in a comment that says "Duplicate what you did for Mark Unrath on his Tekno EB48 chassis". Not to mention you still have the adjustment using the velco strap.
Mark
Mark
01-27-2014 | 06:40 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 471
S.Tripp77 - You have that option with BCE. When you place the order there is a Notes/Comment section. Inform Bill that you want the stock LIPO position and the modified position. This way you can adjust the LIPO on the fly by taking out 6 screws and moving the battery back or keep it in the stock position. You can put in a comment that says "Duplicate what you did for Mark Unrath on his Tekno EB48 chassis". Not to mention you still have the adjustment using the velco strap.
Mark
Mark
01-27-2014 | 07:04 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
From: Covington, La.
For me the stock position did not matter much as I ran the battery back in the tray anyway. I did not like the car with the battery forward and now I run the battery forward in the tray (which is back on the stock chassis) and i now have the ability to move it even further back with the holes.
Maybe on my next chassis I will get both sets of holes. However, they last so long it will be a while!
Maybe on my next chassis I will get both sets of holes. However, they last so long it will be a while!
01-27-2014 | 07:09 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 471
For me the stock position did not matter much as I ran the battery back in the tray anyway. I did not like the car with the battery forward and now I run the battery forward in the tray (which is back on the stock chassis) and i now have the ability to move it even further back with the holes.
Maybe on my next chassis I will get both sets of holes. However, they last so long it will be a while!
Maybe on my next chassis I will get both sets of holes. However, they last so long it will be a while!
01-27-2014 | 07:23 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
From: Covington, La.
01-27-2014 | 07:33 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 471
For me the stock position did not matter much as I ran the battery back in the tray anyway. I did not like the car with the battery forward and now I run the battery forward in the tray (which is back on the stock chassis) and i now have the ability to move it even further back with the holes.
Maybe on my next chassis I will get both sets of holes. However, they last so long it will be a while!
Maybe on my next chassis I will get both sets of holes. However, they last so long it will be a while!
01-27-2014 | 09:02 PM
6) Removing the o-ring under the shock cap eliminated the leaking issue. Additionally I found building the shocks like I do my MP9 shocks provided consistent rebound and no air. I dislike the technique of placing the bladder on the shock body and then shock cap. It reminds me of building TC shocks which I hate! 
These are the steps I followed:
- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
7) Finally, I broke my car horribly while catching the leader of the second triple A main. Two lapped cars were tangled on the face of the large triple on the track. I didn't see them until the last second and hit them HARD! A large crack was heard and the damage is visible in the picture below. Not a reflection of the cars durability as any buggy would be broken after a 35mph hit like that. This ended my chance of winning the weekend in E-buggy but a 4th place finish in the 45 minute nitro buggy A main was the highlight for me!
-Kane
These are the steps I followed:- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
7) Finally, I broke my car horribly while catching the leader of the second triple A main. Two lapped cars were tangled on the face of the large triple on the track. I didn't see them until the last second and hit them HARD! A large crack was heard and the damage is visible in the picture below. Not a reflection of the cars durability as any buggy would be broken after a 35mph hit like that. This ended my chance of winning the weekend in E-buggy but a 4th place finish in the 45 minute nitro buggy A main was the highlight for me!
-Kane
01-27-2014 | 11:03 PM
Man last saturday i decided to try jasons inserts and man did it really lock my rear end down on and off power,able to break it loose but much more planted now,i think it is a must have for this car even with the +1.5 block,i never known that lowering your hingepins made that much of a difference until he explained it to me,thanks again dude for making my car way better at B&B anyway!And while we are on the subject about jason may i add his car is flipping dialed man,he let me wheel it for a few laps and man let me tell you guys it was so easy to control but so easy to drive fast,and that hobbywing combo he had made it so smooth to top it off,thanks bro
01-28-2014 | 09:19 AM
These low roll center inserts people are talking about, is this something stock from Tekno or something people got custom made (sorry, been out of the loop a bit these past days)