Okay I will try flipping the rear wheels. I guess I still don't understand why they give you part A13 but no C6.

Yeah that totally fixed my issue, I hadn't even thought about flipping the wheels. Thanks!

Hi guys,
just rebuilding my TT02 for this years spec class Racing.
I noticed, that with the rear suspension limiters and CVA-Dampers built according TT01 manual, the TT02 has much more front than rear droop.
So I wanted to ask the Racers here, if anyone already experimented with different internal spacers on the front, to reduce max. lengths (and droop).
I didnīt see a shock manual from Tamiya so far, that suggests how to set up the lengths.

Br,
Matthias

I added a spacer in the font to dial out more of the front droop. I prefer the rear to have a little more droop than the front. (Albeit both quite similar in range)

building my TT02 currently, and is targeting to use the 90T/ 50T tamiya spur/ pinion combo.

so, happily picked up my dremel, and start working away... and shit happens when i was a little bit impatient.

the pic speaks a thousand words.

so now, all those who have dremeled their motor cover, can post some pics to share.



spot the minor hole that appeared when i overdo it?

Thanks Qatmix for the info, that was exactly the answer I searched.
Probably I have to make some trials how much will be good on mine. As we have some higher Plastic curbs, too less droop always ends with flying high when hitting one.

Br,
Matthias

I've used a dremel to for more space in de gear cover, but i was more patient
This wknd my youngest girl will be racing the TT-02, i put more spacers in de rear shocks so the weight transfer goes towards the rear.
Just the avoid over steering and have a better rear grip.

I'm having trouble dialing in the steering on my TT02. It doesn't seem to want to go straight. What things should I be looking at?

Also I was told adding shims to take out slop is something I should do. What should I use for shims? Do you guys just use small, thin washers or something?

From over 8 years experience with the TT01, Iīd say let the slop as it is. It doesnīt effect the lap times on a TT. It just becomes strange to drive and is unnecessary work. Steering links is maybe the only exception. There you should check from time to time.

Br,
Matthias

Hi guys I have a problem with my TT02B. I know this thread is just for the TT02 but bear with me because they have the exact same running gear. Ok so the bevel gear which connects the driveshaft to the diff has been stripped, not the teeth, but the inside of the bevel gear which gets the power from the driveshaft. I am running the exact same setup as my TT02 touring car, 5.5T brushless 6000kv w/ 60A esc. With this setup I have had zero problems on my touring TT02 but the power may be too great for the TT02B.
For those who don't know the TT02B is an offroad buggy, same chassis as the TT02 but with a completely different suspension system.

So anyway I was wondering whether you guys know where to get a metal bevel gear so it won't get stripped out.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

so with the tt02 out now, is it ok to still get a tto1 or is it just stupid?

they are the same price on rcmart.

I've owned a fair few TT01's. Next to the TT02 I have they're close but over-all for the price the TT02 is a better refined car. You'd put more money into a TT01 to get it up to a TT02 standard anyway.

Thanks for the reply. So I should just buy the TT01 servo parts? I think it's Tamiya part #51005?

http://banzaihobby.com/index.php?mai...oducts_id=1499

I tried super gluing the 3 servo saver parts together and that helped a little but it still doesn't want to center properly.

Yes, this are the right parts. If I rember correctly, the parts set was already included in the kit, because TT02 uses the same suspension balls as the TT01.
Take a look in your kit before ordering.
You also need to use the included rod to connect to the steering, as the TT02 is too big for the TT01 Servo saver. With 2 plastic spacers you have to adjust to a proper angle. Hereīs a pic from mine. Notice that I mounted my servo with 2mm shims more in front of the car. If you donīt do this, you need a bigger spacer on one of the connections, to get a good working connection without too much friction. Itīs still no ball pin.

You can use the tamiya 51000 too.
Its strong, and can be upgraded with alu arm.
I use it on my cars, and they are great.
The stock one is too weak probably built bash proof.
There is a picure in the previous page with it.Also u can use adjustable speering rod for even throw.
here:

does any one know if we can use the tt-02B knuckles and other parts so we can have adjustable rods for camber.i don't want to use yea racing parts