Hello, need some help on my B44.2. Just change the stock steering rack to jc aluminum steering bellcrank assembly. Found out that its quite different feel when driving the car. Seems that the stock feels more "relax" when driving it but i have read that the jc ones are better. So which location on the jc one is the same as the stock setting? Also between all 3 position which is the best to use? Thanks in advance. Cheers...

The 2 rearmost holes are the same as stock.. The forward hole is an additional position.

With the 44.2 most of us seem to have migrated to the forward hole on the 44.2 rack (middle on JC rack) to get a bit more steering response out of the longer chassis. The JC rack adds more response as it has less flex. I would suggest starting with the middle hole on the rack.

Ray

My experience is further forward is less aggressive and further back is more aggressive turn in. Looked it up to make sure my thinking is correct... its early

From the X-Ray guide:
STEERING ROD INNER MOUNTING
POSITION
CHARACTERISTICS
Forward holes (sharper angle)
• Smoothens out steering response
• Car reacts smoothly
• Better suited to smooth fl owing tracks with
high speed corners

Rearward holes (shallower angle)
• Quickens initial steering response
• Car reacts faster to steering input
• Better suited to small, tight tracks

Thanks Ray for the info. Currently it is setup on the most forward position on the jc rack. Will bring back to middle and see how it goes. Also does it also help by adjusting the END POINT on your transmitter for better steering?

Thanks for the tip. My track is pretty tight and rear holes are the way to go. Will try it soon. Cheers....

Your end points should always be adjusted to achieve maximum mechanical steering "throw" . Adjust them out until the steering physically stops moving on the spindles. Going too far on the EPA will strain the servo and not enough won't achieve full steering

Is using a tekin gen 2 4.5 with a tekin RS pro and team powers 5400 35C saddle pack overkill?
I'm currently running 81 spur 16 pinion and my battery is running out of juice prior to the end of a 5 minute qualifier. My ESC and attached capacitor seem to be running hot as well. I'm not sure if the batteries are bad or the motor is just too much.
I'm going to try and get a 6.5 but if the motor is not the problem then I need to find out my next step.
I'm kind of new to electric off road. I mainly run Nitro TC and have very little experience running anything electric.
Thanks

Hello, what is the most common tire/insert combo for an indoor clay track? Medium size and medium bight? Thanks!!

Your motor is way too much. 6.5 is plenty. You can also benefit from a better battery pack, something with a higher C rating. I ran an RS Gen 2 in my 4wd and while it was fine, it tends to run hotter than something with a fan.

I am running a 6.5 with 20t and it is perfect. I run a 6 minute qualifier no problem and I can run around 12 minutes total before the battery dumps.

Dump the motor, go to a 7.5 or 6.5, gear up a tooth or two depending on how large your track is and go from there.

Thanks. I'll see what I can do about getting rid of this 4.5 and getting a 6.5 or 7t motor. I'll also get a better battery pack. I figured 35C wasn't high enough C rating.

jconcepts gold barcodes fr / rr with aka red inserts

Sometimes in mod motors racers like the lower c ratings. You can try lower and higher.

The gearing is way off. Rule of thumb is if the esc is getting hot, your under geared, if the motor gets hot, your over geared. I've used that rule for a very long time and has never led me wrong. Your battery is fine, no need to get a different one, get a 6.5 or higher and gear it right and you will be golden.

Speaking of my buggy...its for sale as well as a second spare and huge parts lot

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...fs-spares.html

Dude, that blows. I have only broken 1 arm on my buggy and none in the last 3 months of racing since doing the o-ring mod. Sorry you were having bad luck out there.